Simplifying BBB for very small pools (e.g. Intex)

[JasonLion]

So, have we come to consensus?

No not really. We do have a basic outline that everyone seems to agree on. But then there are a number of minor questions that we don't yet agree about. The most obvious one is which test kit to recommend, but there are several others. It really seems like the open questions are all very minor, but I don't think we are making any progress on them.

I am not clear on what the decision criteria really are/should be. duraleigh has been advocating for keeping things as simple as possible. frustratedpoolmom is worried about keeping things compatible with everything else we teach, so that there is a smooth transition to operating a larger pool. Keeping costs down is clearly an issue. There also seems to be a question of how much we can expect/ask for the pool owner to be consistent in treating the pool, and thus how much we should design the system to be resilient in the face of missed steps.

It isn't clear to me what the primary goal is/should be. For example, various criteria I listed above tend to argue for different test kits. Keeping costs down and as simple as possible both suggest getting a K-1000/OTO/PH kit. Compatible with everything else we teach suggests the WalMart six way kit. While a smooth transition to everything else we teach might suggest a DPD kit, so you can distinguish FC and CC, or the WalMart kit so you can measure more levels, depending on how you interpret it.

When I took over the site, one of the goals I set for TFP was:

To promote a system of pool care that is simple, inexpensive, and trouble-free.

Trying to apply that here does bring a little more clarity, but it doesn't really answer the question of how to decide on a test kit. We have already been talking about simple and inexpensive. But we haven't really worked through what it takes to be trouble-free.

The essential question right now is really deciding how to pick which test kit to recommend, not the actual selection of a test kit. Picking a test kit will follow very easily if we can get clear on what the criteria are.

 

[frustratedpoolmom]

Well said Jason.

Okay, I came up with something, using the thoughts put forth by all who have contributed thus far, and from a few test cases we have seen, some things Anna K has posted that got me thinking, etc.

It's just a start, probably too wordy, I'm open to suggestions I KNOW it's not ideal. But basically where I'm at in the thought process. Feel free to hack away! LOL I told Paul to KISS and I think I went overboard?

See next post. Will take me a minute to fix the formating and links. etc.

 

[frustratedpoolmom]

Start-up Procedures for Small Pools – Intex Inflatable or Easy Set type pools, 5,500 gallons or less:

It’s a good idea to have your tap water or fill water tested before you begin filling. That way you have an idea of what products you will need to treat your water.

To start using your pool, you will need at least these 4 things:

• 6% Clorox Bleach (or store brand generic, like Wal-Mart’s Great Value brand)
• 1 cup plastic or Pyrex-type glass measuring cup (mark it for pool use and don’t use it for anything else.)
• For small pools, a simple 6-way test kit, like this one, also sold by Wal-Mart for around $20.
• Dichlor granular chlorine, commonly called “pool shock”. This is usually sold in 1 lb bags, which is ideal for small pools like yours. Look for the words: "sodium dichloro-s-triazinetrione" under active ingredients.

If your Pool is # of 1 lb bags needed
Under 2,000 1
2000-3000 2
3000-5000 3
5000-5500 4



You will also need to learn how to use the Pool Calculator. Learn how by following these instructions. The Pool Calculator will help you determine exactly how much of each product you need to add to reach your desired levels.

Your Recommended Levels are found in this article.

3 Steps to Getting Started.

It is recommended you have your own kit, so you don’t have to rely on pool stores for testing. (We generally don’t recommend the testing strips as they are not very accurate and can be difficult to read.)

The 6-way test kits will test for Chlorine/Bromine, PH, Total Alkalinity, Total Hardness and CYA (stabilizer). You don’t need to worry about Bromine, because you are going to be using Chlorine (the kit tests for both). Also, Vinyl pools don’t require calcium hardness, so you don’t need to worry about the Total Hardness test. You can read more about these tests and what they mean – here.

1. Take a sample of your tap water and test for PH and TA. This will give you good practice for using your kit, and give you an idea of what products you will need. For example:

Low PH – requires Borax to raise it
Low TA – requires Baking Soda to raise it
High PH/TA – requires Muratic Acid to lower these levels.

Refer to the Recommended Levels article above, to determine if your PH and TA are at acceptable levels.

You don’t need to test your tap water for chlorine or CYA. Some tap water won’t have any chlorine in it, and it won’t have any CYA. (Since the 6-way test kit only has enough solution for 3 CYA tests, save you’re test re-agent for a later date, after a month or so of using the pool.)

Now these “practice” tests can be done while the pool is filling. (If you have high-iron content in your water, you may choose to pay to have the water brought in.)

BBB does not mean every pool will need BBB! So test your water before you go shopping for supplies. No point in buying 12 lbs of baking soda if you won’t need it!

Make sure the pump/equipment is operational.

2. After the pool is filled, turn on your Filter Pump. Follow the procedures in your operating instructions found in your pools manual. Note: The filters that come with the pool are disposable, and not meant for long-term use. Under “normal” conditions, they only last 1-2 weeks, so stock up! You can hose it off each day to extend the use of the filter cartridge, but after a week or 2 start fresh. If you experience green water or similar problems, the filters will clog up rapidly and you should just toss it and start fresh.

3. If your kids are pestering you to swim right away, you can add Clorox 6% bleach (or similar store brand). You will need ½ cup for every 500 gallons of water. (Do the math! If you’re pool is around 5,000 gallons, you will need about 5 cups of bleach.) Wait about 1 hour after adding the bleach, then the kids can swim.

Always make sure the pump is running when adding any type of chemical to ensure it’s properly mixed.

With these type of portable pools, you want the pump off and/or unplugged while swimmers are in the pool as a safety measure.

What now?

By the end of the day, your chlorine will probably have dropped to zero. Organic waste from swimmers and sunlight both consume chlorine, so it must be replenished daily. Cyanuric Acid (“CYA”), also called Stabilizer, helps protect the chlorine from UV destruction. Since you have no CYA (municipal and well water will not have CYA) you will need to add this to your water. Don’t be surprised to see chlorine already in your tap water, as some municipal systems add chlorine.

To begin to properly chlorinate your pool, simultaneously raising your CYA to the recommended level, you will use the Dichlor.

Night One.

The first evening (after everyone is done swimming), turn the filter/pump back on. After one hour, test the PH. If it’s above 7.8 you need to add some Muratic Acid to lower it down to 7.4. If it’s below 7.2 you should add a little Borax to raise it up. Adjust the PH before you do any thing else. Use the Pool Calculator to help you determine proper dosing for adjusting the PH.

Wait about 30 minutes after adjusting PH and then you will add the Dichlor. For every 500 gallons of pool water, add 1 ounce of Dichlor. Add it to a bucket of pool water to pre-dissolve it, then pour it into the return flow. Be sure to brush the pool to make sure it is totally dissolved. Let the pump run overnight or at least for several hours. This will raise the FC level to approximately 8, and the CYA level to 8.

Day 2. Test the chlorine in the morning, and write down the results.

You can begin a pool log if you like, though it’s not necessary. It’s nice to have a written record to refer to if in case an issue arises, that way you know what your levels are/were, what you added, etc.

Over the course of the day, you will see this FC level drop down, perhaps to zero. It’s okay to let the kids swim if they want, even a FC level of 8 is safe. If you see the FC has dropped to zero, add another ½ cup of bleach for every 500 gallons to raise the FC back up. You never want the FC to drop below 2.

So night 2, after the kids are done swimming, turn the pump back on. Add another dose of the Dichlor as described above. Your FC will go back up to around 8-10 and your CYA level will increase to 16.

Day 3. Repeat the process on day three, if the kids want to swim it’s okay and be sure to monitor the FC level during the day so that it doesn’t get too low. If everything is progressing normally, you should see your FC levels begin to hold, and you shouldn’t have to add bleach to supplement the FC level, or you should have to add it less often.

Day Four. Your CYA level should now be in the low 20s. Not high enough to register on your test kit, but high enough that you should see the FC levels stabilize. Night Four: Add one more dose of the Dichlor, as instructed above.

Day Five. Your CYA level should now be approximately 30, and this is a good level for your pool. If you refer to the CYA/Chlorine Chart, your recommended FC levels are now between 2-4.

So you will now STOP using the Dichlor and start using Bleach for your everyday chlorine source.

If your FC is a little high at this point, don’t worry, it will drop down to normal levels fairly quickly, especially if the kids are swimming and if the pool is exposed to sunlight.

Each night you will test your Chlorine, and using the Pool Calculator, determine how much bleach to add to raise your FC to 4-5. This will probably be somewhere around between ¼ cup to ½ cup of bleach each night. Some pools will require less, some more. There are many factors, how many bathers, how much sun your pool gets, etc. This nightly addition of bleach will keep your FC above 2, which is the minimum.

Each night you will test your PH, and make sure it stays in the recommended range.

If you should run into a problem, like green, dull or cloudy water, it may be simpler to just dump the water and start over. It’s very hard for the Intex-type pump/filters to defeat an algae bloom.

If you want to try to tackle the issue without draining, you may post a new topic in the appropriate forum for your particular issue (i.e., “Algae-Prevention and Treatment.” Or “Just Getting Started” whichever is more appropriate.)

For follow up reading, this Basic Pool Care Schedule is a good place to start. Of course all of the articles in Pool School are very informative, and if you haven’t read them yet, you should.

 

[frustratedpoolmom]

I don't know how to fix the table formatting for the number of Dichlor bags. (if my math is even right.)

Also I left the HTH test kit wording as I wrote that before I read Jason's post. I'm open, I just think it's the kit they'll end up with - or lesser versions or strips. Remembering my noob days, I wanted my kit "today" and drove all over to find one, rather than odering online....

 

[Nikki in IL]

So, have we come to consensus?

It isn't clear to me what the primary goal is/should be. For example, various criteria I listed above tend to argue for different test kits. Keeping costs down and as simple as possible both suggest getting a K-1000/OTO/PH kit. Compatible with everything else we teach suggests the WalMart six way kit. While a smooth transition to everything else we teach might suggest a DPD kit, so you can distinguish FC and CC, or the WalMart kit so you can measure more levels, depending on how you interpret it.

When I took over the site, one of the goals I set for TFP was:

To promote a system of pool care that is simple, inexpensive, and trouble-free.

Trying to apply that here does bring a little more clarity, but it doesn't really answer the question of how to decide on a test kit. We have already been talking about simple and inexpensive. But we haven't really worked through what it takes to be trouble-free.

Quoting fixed. JasonLion

I'm at a better keyboard for the moment and really wanted to help with this discussion since I've learned a ton over the last three years of being in Intex owner and using this site exclusively. Jason makes some good points above, and I wanted to add to it a bit. I think you need to decide who you're targeting this article to. The way I see it, there are three main groups of Intex owners: 1. those, like me, who are using an Intex as a test pool to prepare for bigger and better things. 2. those for whom bigger/better things aren't an option but still want to do "the right thing", and 3. those who believe that tests, chemicals, etc. are too complicated and will just buy whatever Walmart has. I would target this to the first two groups...group three wwill be unlikely to be persuaded, just like we've seen with a few forum participants here.

Again, based on my experiece with Intex and using this site, I have what I believe is a trouble free plan for Intex. I guess what I do would be considered "watered-down" BBB. I didn't use *every* component of BBB...for instance I used the walmart six-way test kit (remember, trouble free for Intex would be buying a test kit off the shelf wherever you bought the pool). I have my fancy TF100 now, but the six-way gave me two years of crystal clear water. I focused on not allowing my chlorine level to drop below a certain level instead of worrying about a certain high level since I couldn't measure past five (I still shocked to the appropriate CYA leve as calculated by the pool calc, but instead of being able to do an overnight FC test, I kept an eye on how fast the level dropped to something I could measure...if it was fast, I'd reshock...if it took awhile, and the water looked good, I figured I was okay.

In general, I think you need to worry less about the numbers for Intex users and really emphasize minimum chlorine levels along with using common sense on how the water looks (and the obligaroty CYA stuff -- it does need to be in there without question, in my opinion, and the six-way test gives you enough for two CYA tests -- for our three-month swimming summer here, I did my CYA tests at the one month and two month mark). If the chlorine is at a minumin good level and the water is chrystal clear, proceed as normal. If the water is cloudy, shock with bleach. If the water is "okay" but the pool feels slimy, shock with bleach. Basically I think you need to teach people more intuition. Think in terms of how you'd operate if you went out one day and your TF100 test kit had disappeared. It's not much different than how I operated the ten years I spent as a paramedic. No matter what the fancy monitors, tests, etc. said, I still treated based on how the patient looked.

 

[Guest]

Leslie's has dichlor for $4 to $5 a pound. On the Internet you need to buy six one pound bags, but in the store they will sell you a single one pound bag. Dosage will be around 1/2 lb to 2/3 lb per 1000 gallons.

Dichlor is commonly sold in 2 lb canisters (a convenient size for spa use!)
http://www.proteampoolcare.com/san_zipchlor.htm

Also, I have seen other brands in this size such as the Ace Hardware house brand O-Ace-Sis.
They call it Dy-Chlor II

There are others packaged in this size also.

 

[frustratedpoolmom]

I've looked for the O-ACE-SIS brand at our Ace, after you recommended something, but up here they just carry the HTH chems.

 

[PaulR]

Leslie's also has the 2-lb canisters, I have one for my spa. But I think we should still tell people what to get in 1-lb increments, if they end up getting too much they'll either stop at the right point anyway or use it all up. The extra 1-lb won't ruin anything; the CYA will be higher but not so much as to be a major problem.

If the 6-way kit is only $20 I'm okay with recommending that. It's true that as soon as anyone posts with a problem we will want the full test suite.

Nikki's point about watching the minimum TC and not caring about the high end seems right on.

I read through FPM's instructions not super carefully (need to get to a pre-trip meeting in 1/2 hr) just a couple things. The only real issue I have is we should say dry acid not muriatic. It's a lot easier to measure small amounts of dry acid without killing yourself or burning a hole in the pool.

Re the dichlor, the how-much-to-get and how-much-to-use work out to putting it all in over the course of the first week, which will keep the FC right up there but gets the dichlor part over with pretty quickly. That's probably a good thing.

There was a spot that said you'd need 1/4 to 1/2 cup bleach, wouldn't that be per 500 or per 1000 gal?

Thanks for writing it all up, I clearly won't have time--leaving Wednesday morning and gone until the 12th.
--paulr

 

[frustratedpoolmom]

There was a spot that said you'd need 1/4 to 1/2 cup bleach, wouldn't that be per 500 or per 1000 gal?

Yes, thanks for catching that. Per 500 gallons. I figure it would bump the fc 2-4 ppm per 500 gallons.

Good suggestion on the dry acid. Since they are dumping/refilling more frequently, sulphates aren't an issue.

 

[The Mermaid Queen]

I know I am late to this conversation, but thought I'd toss my 2 cents into the pool.

My experience with pools has been exclusively Intex ring pools. I wish I had found TFP (or PF) while I had them, as I always had a swamp by mid-July (in Southeastern Louisiana) and had no clue why!

I am torn between the "This is a real pool, get a kit and take charge" and "Many people buy intex pools because they cannot afford more than that, and they just are NOT going to invest in a kit" stand.

I would add another category of intex owners to Nikki's list... those who simply cannot afford anything else, or see this as a cheap way to get a pool, and are not willing/able to make large purchases because it IS a cheap pool. I believe the majority of intex owners actually fall into THIS category.

Had I found TFP and people were telling me to drop $$ on a test kit, I would have looked for help elsewhere. Sorry, but true.
Had I found FPM's, um, wordy 'simple' directions, I would have freaked out and also looked elsewhere. (Not that the directions were bad, just too long... just looking at them freaked me out, and I now KNOW how to properly care for a pool!! )

I agree that we ought to suggest pH down. To have to deal with MA for such a small water volume would be a big pain! Also, for the average intex owner, "acid" is a scary term. I have seen some folks concerned about the word even in CYA!

I think most intex owners would balk at the $25 bottle of PQ. I know I would have.

When someone with a small intex swamp comes here, I think we should suggest draining. It is extremely difficult to clear up problems in an intex with the wimpy little pump/filters. $$ for the kit, $$ for a bunch of bleach... remember, many intex owners are not inclined to spend a ton of money (or time) on a 'cheap' pool. Draining an intex is easy... there is a little plug at the bottom that you can use an adapter (comes with the pool) and garden hose.

I really liked Waterbear's summary, which I think FPM was basically saying, tho with a lot more words!

...
Use dichlor at the filling until x amount has been used per y gallons (to establish the CYA level) then have them switch to bleach and to shock with bleach. Have them only test pH and chlorine with a OTO/pH tester (Dave, here is a chance to sell K-1000s )s
It does not need to be complicated but it does need to be sanitized.
...

Sorry that this was a little jumbled, and if I have repeated info that was said elsewhere in this thread...

 

[Guest]

If the 6-way kit is only $20 I'm okay with recommending that. It's true that as soon as anyone posts with a problem we will want the full test suite.

--paulr

FWIW, The Walmart in my neck of the woods does not sell the HTH 6 way. It sells the Aquachem OTO/pH and it sells strips. I have yet to find an HTH kit in my area. I used to find the Aquachem when they were still selling it (it was discontinued and they are now pushing strips.)

 

[frustratedpoolmom]

I guess I thought of the article in more of a "startup-how to" kind of way, not necessarily, Defeating Algae in an Intex pool."

I agree, if it's green, drain it. Then start fresh, and that point can be made at the start of the article. The article should include step by step How to get started... We've had several Intex posters this week alone asking that very question, what do I do first? We can't refer them to Pool School if there isn't something specific for them, and we can't just say "use the Pool Calculator" because they will run the other way. We can't make it super vague and general, because then we're just holding their hand anyway....

The article was wordy, :blah: LOL even I could see that. I was kinda hoping folks would point out the wordy parts, Um, Hello? where's our in house Editor?! Do we have one in the house? :lol:

It's like we have been discussing....trying to cover all possibilities is making it too complicated. But if you leave something out, what is it? Can it be made more general yet cover the various possibilities? IDK.

 

[JasonLion]

I would add:

• some web automation so that they pick their pool size and the dosing is all figured out for them;[/*:m:h04sewj6]
• a shopping list with clear pictures of products that people can find in most stores;[/*:m:h04sewj6]
• a totally clear do this at startup list with the minimum possible number of "if"s;[/*:m:h04sewj6]
• a totally clear do this daily list[/*:m:h04sewj6]
• no mention at all of things they can ignore, like CH[/*:m:h04sewj6]
• a separate "When Something Goes Wrong" section at the bottom.[/*:m:h04sewj6]

I want to include Polyquat. If they skip it, then they skip it.

 

[Nikki in IL]

Mermaid Queen is right about a fourth category of Intex users. I think we need to keep this as simple and inexpensive as possible, taking the most important of the BBB concepts and applying them as best we can given the constraints we've discussed. JasonLion's bullet-point list is great. There are ZERO chemical instructions in the Intex pool setup information and no start-up chemicals included, so even basic "watered-down" BBB will need to be clearly explained.

Can we combine what PaulR and FPM have done into JasonLion's bullet-point list? I'm happy to help edit, format, or whatever (my mom is an English professor...that whole writing/grammar thing was drilled into us from a very young age).

 

[PaulR]

Test kit availability could be a problem; in fact I was trading notes with somebody on another forum where the local pool stores simply didn't have drop kits at all. I hope that's unusual... I think for the smallest pools a TC/pH kit is adequate and you dump the pool if anything goes wrong. For larger pools where dumping is a bigger deal, the 6-way is better but the 2-way is okay if you can't find the 6-way or you're cheap. (phrased more diplomatically )

Borax availability could be a problem; but wouldn't the place that sold you the pool be likely to have some form of "pH Up" product? It almost certainly costs more but the simplicity of "borax or pH Up" and avoiding soda ash seems like the way to go. (Might not be the cheapest route, but fewer "ifs" to contend with.) So, if you have to raise pH: 20 Mule Team if you can find it, pH Up otherwise.

Here's yet another sketch, shorter than FPM's longer than Jason's still needs some fill-in-the-blanks. And editing (thanks Nikki!)


Water Chemistry for Your New Small Pool

What To Buy
You will need:

A simple test kit that uses drops to measure chlorine and pH
- For pools over 4000 gallons, consider a "6-way" kit if your store has them
A plastic measuring cup to be used for pool chemicals only

Each time you fill the pool, you will need:

X pounds of "dichlor" (sodium dichloro-s-triazinetrione 100%)
- where X depends on gallons, either by chart or web automation

The following items will be used as needed, and when you run out you will need to get more.

regular unscented bleach (should say "sodium hypochlorite 6%" on the label)
"pH Down" (sodium bisulfate)
20 Mule Team Borax, or "pH Up" (but only if you need it)

About Adding Chemicals
Pool chemicals need to be treated with some respect. You don't just dump them in the pool and hope for the best. In general powders and granules should be predissolved in a bucket before adding them to the pool; don't stir with your hand, use a stick. Liquids can be added directly to the pool, or diluted in a bucket first.

Always add chemicals to water; never add water to chemicals.

Always have the pump running when adding chemicals. Pour the liquid (or contents of the bucket) slowly in front of the return jet so they will be dispersed as quickly as possible throughout the pool. Leave the pump running for at least 15 minutes afterward. If you plan to test the water after adding something, do it after the 15 minutes are up.

How To Start
Fill the pool with water. Test and correct the pH (see below). If you want to swim right away, first pour in about 1/2 cup bleach per 500 gallons, let the pump circulate it for at least 15 minutes. Then you can swim!

Each evening, with the pump on: Dip a bucket of pool water. Measure 1 oz dichlor per 500 gallons, pour that into the bucket. Stir until dissolved. Pour slowly back into the pool, in front of the return jet.

The dichlor should last about 5 days (give or take). When it's gone you don't need to get more; you'll be using bleach from now on.

Daily Routine
After the dichlor is used up, you should test the chlorine and pH each evening. Correct the pH as needed (see Correcting pH).

You will almost certainly need to add bleach each evening. Your goal is to have the chlorine level be between 2 and 5 each evening, before you add any bleach. By trial and error you will find the right amount to use each evening.

Each pool is a little different, so exactly how much bleach you need is something you need to determine. Start out with 1/4 cup bleach per 500 gallons. If it leaves you below 2, then increase the amount of daily bleach. If it leaves you above 5, skip the bleach that day and reduce the amount next time. If it leaves you between 2 and 5 each evening, you're done.

As long as you are testing chlorine each evening, you should also test pH and correct as needed (see below).

Correcting pH
Your daily pH test should be somewhere in the range 7.2 to 7.8.

If it is too low, you can use 20 Mule Team Borax to increase it; use 1 oz Borax per 500 gallons. Exactly how much you will need depends partly on other water parameters; so if this amount doesn't raise pH enough, repeat the dose until the pH is where you want it.

If it is too high, then you can use "pH Down" to lower it; use 1/2 oz pH Down per 500 gallons (don't worry about getting it exactly right). Again, exactly how much you will need depends partly on other water parameters; so if this amount doesn't lower pH enough, repeat but with HALF the first dose, until the pH is where you want it.

If You Have the 6-Way Kit
Maybe we should talk about TA and CYA for the more "invested" Intex owner, here. Or maybe just point to the regular Pool School articles.

--paulr

 

[frustratedpoolmom]

Paul, I really like it...we're getting closer!

 

[The Mermaid Queen]

Paul, I like it!

for the shopping list, can the dichlor be stated sort of like how you stated the daily dosing 1oz/500gal:
whatever the amount is, but for example 1# per 1000 gallons? That seems pretty straightforward.... if my pool is 2500 gal, I get 2.5 pounds. (whatever the ACTUAL number is supposed to be, shame on me for not knowing!!)

You will almost certainly need to add bleach each evening.

I would that the 'almost certainly' out of that sentence. They will think they can not bother testing each day and be ok.

I would add:

• some web automation so that they pick their pool size and the dosing is all figured out for them; That would be cool![/*:m:2t0yu2n8]
• a shopping list with clear pictures of products that people can find in most stores;[/*:m:2t0yu2n8]
• a totally clear do this at startup list with the minimum possible number of "if"s;[/*:m:2t0yu2n8]
• a totally clear do this daily list[/*:m:2t0yu2n8]
• no mention at all of things they can ignore, like CH[/*:m:2t0yu2n8]
• a separate "When Something Goes Wrong" section at the bottom.[/*:m:2t0yu2n8]

I want to include Polyquat. If they skip it, then they skip it. Maybe list the PQ as recommended, but optional??

 

[PaulR]

I want to include Polyquat. If they skip it, then they skip it. Maybe list the PQ as recommended, but optional??

Feh, I knew I forgot something.... meant to put in the PQ as optional.

I think I had figured out the actual dichlor amount in a previous post but didn't bother going back to look it up. IIRC it's 1/2 lb per 1000 "rounded up" 'cause you're not gonna find it in smaller than 1lb packages, maybe not less than 2lb.
--paulr

 

[Nikki in IL]

Paul, this is looking good :-D . An addition I would suggest... I really think we need to mention how to identify potential water quality issues. Any test kit these folks find won't allow them to test CC, so they're going to need to rely on more subjective measures. How about something along these lines:

if your pool water starts to become cloudy, shock (with bleach at this point) and run filter until it clears
if the pool surface begins to feel slick or slimy, shock and run filter until it clears

What do you think?

 

[PaulR]

That's another thing I was missing, jason's "when something goes wrong" section. Knew I was writing it up too fast. (Like the saying goes: good, fast, cheap--pick two.) Cloudy, green, slimy--shock. (Need a how-to-shock when you have only an OTO test. This is where OTO would be better than DPD.) Anything else, ask on the forum.

Somebody else can run with it, use my words all you want (or none, I don't care; it's the final product that matters not who did the words). It's embarrassing to start something like this and not be able to carry through but in 36 hrs I am gone till the 12th. Now lessee, where did I put my suitcase....
--paulr