- Jan 21, 2009
- 562
- Pool Size
- 21000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite Pro (T-15)
Why do deck jets need to be reduced to 3/4??? He just installed 1 without reducing and turned it on and it seemed to work fine.
Plumber and I are arguing. Need quick answer
- Thread starter orthofish
- Start date
You mean the plumbing going to the deck jet or the connection at the jet itself? If it's the Jandy Deck Jet I think that has a 3/4" connection, so you have to reduce at the jet, but the plumbing line to the jet itself doesn't necessarily have to be reduced. You'll just be paying more for the plumbing and fittings on those lines.
- Jan 21, 2009
- 562
- Pool Size
- 21000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite Pro (T-15)
The plumbing to the jet is 1,5" But the installation for them,which these guys don't read, says the supply can be any size,1/2" recommended. I saw a thread where Jason said to reduce them right before to 3/4".
- Jan 21, 2009
- 562
- Pool Size
- 21000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite Pro (T-15)
Here's a pic. He turned it on and had to turn it nearly off to keep it in the pool. Seems with a 3/4 it would be out in the pasture.
- Jan 21, 2009
- 562
- Pool Size
- 21000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite Pro (T-15)
- Jan 21, 2009
- 562
- Pool Size
- 21000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite Pro (T-15)
orthofish said:
Ah, the 3/4" would reduce the water flow to the jet vs. the 1.5". That may be why they recommend the 1/2" line and why Jason suggested the 3/4". I know the ones I
It really doesn't matter. Deck jets are low flow rate, so they don't require large pipes, but large pipes won't hurt. Regardless, you need valves that allows you to adjust the amount of water going to each jet so you can adjust them for your situation.
- Jan 21, 2009
- 562
- Pool Size
- 21000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite Pro (T-15)
Each one has it's own line and valve. They are barley turned on to go to the middle of the pool. The water seems to break up at the apex. Great big drops after the apex and going into the pool. Would 3/4" before the jets stop that??? I'll try to get a pic.
- Jan 21, 2009
- 562
- Pool Size
- 21000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite Pro (T-15)
- May 3, 2007
- 16,815
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- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
I believe what you are seeing is water coming out of the housing without the jet installed. The diagram you showed is just for the housing. The jet itself is a fitting, much like a spa jet, which fits inside the housing. This will produce a nice stead stream. You will then be able to use the valve to adjust for looks. At the bottom of this page, you can see the various inserts that you can use and at least one should have come with the housing.
- Jan 21, 2009
- 562
- Pool Size
- 21000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite Pro (T-15)
No Mark, The one closest on the left is the bigger diameter fitting , the one on the far right is a smaller diameter, and the one on the right closest is the triple spray. I have 5 different fittings.
- Jan 21, 2009
- 562
- Pool Size
- 21000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite Pro (T-15)
Don't know anything about these jets, but the rules of hydraulics and flow through pipes apply to any such device...
The amount that can flow through a pipe is a function of the pipe diameter, and the pressure of the source. You will also have a SMALL amount of loss due to the friction of the fluid passing through the pipe, but this can mostly be ignored for this sort of thing. The pipe diameter that matters is the SMALLEST diameter in the system, no matter how short it is...
Looking at the pictures and instructions I would say that the two smallest diameter parts involved will be the jet outlets, and the adjusting valve. As long as the line connecting the valve and the outlet is large enough to deliver more volume than the jet nozzle can pass, then you are fine... ALL that using a larger bore feed pipe will do is require you to possibly close the control valve a bit more. It might also cost a bit more, though this can be a wash depending on the prices involved. Many plumbers will also like to reduce the number of different sizes of pipe they have to haul around, so they might use a larger size for several things if it lets them not have to keep track of another smaller size and all the associated parts that go with it...
Bottom line - a pipe that's "too big" won't hurt anything, just don't go with something that is too small...
Gooserider
The amount that can flow through a pipe is a function of the pipe diameter, and the pressure of the source. You will also have a SMALL amount of loss due to the friction of the fluid passing through the pipe, but this can mostly be ignored for this sort of thing. The pipe diameter that matters is the SMALLEST diameter in the system, no matter how short it is...
Looking at the pictures and instructions I would say that the two smallest diameter parts involved will be the jet outlets, and the adjusting valve. As long as the line connecting the valve and the outlet is large enough to deliver more volume than the jet nozzle can pass, then you are fine... ALL that using a larger bore feed pipe will do is require you to possibly close the control valve a bit more. It might also cost a bit more, though this can be a wash depending on the prices involved. Many plumbers will also like to reduce the number of different sizes of pipe they have to haul around, so they might use a larger size for several things if it lets them not have to keep track of another smaller size and all the associated parts that go with it...
Bottom line - a pipe that's "too big" won't hurt anything, just don't go with something that is too small...
Gooserider
- Jan 21, 2009
- 562
- Pool Size
- 21000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite Pro (T-15)
Thank you Gooserider. There is plenty of flow to the jets cause they have to be turned almost completely off to keep them in the pool. There's 1.5" pipe going directly to each one of them. I don't understand why the instructions would say reduce to 1/2-3/4" pipe at the jet.
Would it somehow give a more uniform stream into the pool? Say, eleminate the big drops effect that you see in the pics.?
I hope I'm making sense :?
They are coming back today, I think, to hook one up with the 3/4" as shown in the instructions, just to see if it changes anything.
But ifr someone can tell me that it won't change anything I will tell them not to worry about it.
Would it somehow give a more uniform stream into the pool? Say, eleminate the big drops effect that you see in the pics.?
I hope I'm making sense :?
They are coming back today, I think, to hook one up with the 3/4" as shown in the instructions, just to see if it changes anything.
But ifr someone can tell me that it won't change anything I will tell them not to worry about it.
- Jan 21, 2009
- 562
- Pool Size
- 21000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite Pro (T-15)
One other thing. Will those dang red handled ball valves ever loosen up :?: I can barely turn them to adjust the jets, and when I do, it's herky jerky.
The 3/4" or 1/2" lines will create more pressure/less water flow, so that would probably solve the issue of having to close your valves 90% to keep the streams in the pool.
I've never known a ball valve that got easier to turn over time.
As for fixing the structural integrity of the stream, they won't stay together all the way into the pool. Take a look at some of the ones in this GIS. They all 'go to bead', but yours do seem to be fluctuating a bit.
I've never known a ball valve that got easier to turn over time.
As for fixing the structural integrity of the stream, they won't stay together all the way into the pool. Take a look at some of the ones in this GIS. They all 'go to bead', but yours do seem to be fluctuating a bit.
- Jan 21, 2009
- 562
- Pool Size
- 21000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite Pro (T-15)
My hubby put some silicone lube on the ball valve, by wiping exposed ball area with the grease, turning it back and forth a few times to try and coat the ball. It's not perfect but it's better. (Of course you'd have to unconnect it for this to work. 
)
)
- Jan 21, 2009
- 562
- Pool Size
- 21000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite Pro (T-15)
Thanks FPM. If I have to disconnect it I will probably replace them with something that I can turn more easily. These puppies are rediculously hard to turn 
I've been using my trusty channel locks :-D
Speaking of that, in this pic, the white valves on the far right are very eaasy to turn. Why didn't they use them throughout??? More expensive? Not as durable? :?: :?:
I've been using my trusty channel locks :-DSpeaking of that, in this pic, the white valves on the far right are very eaasy to turn. Why didn't they use them throughout??? More expensive? Not as durable? :?: :?:
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