Newbie - Cloudy pool, floc didn't work

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Q

qdylan

0
May 21, 2017
48
Toronto, Ontario
Hi,

I opened my pool a week ago and it was green. Added a good amount of chlorine (which helped) and then added a chlorinated shock 2 days later. The water became blue but still cloudy.

The test strips I have showed appropriate levels of Total Alkalinity, PH and Total Hardness; but extremely low FC and TC (although I had added a lot of chlorine as mentioned earlier).

On the advice of a neighbour, I added in alum (acts as a floc?). Followed the instructions for adding in a floc, but now 48hrs later nothing has settled down (or very little of it has, since I can't really see the bottom of the pool it's tough to tell).

After reading the forums, I now realize that adding floc wasn't necessary; instead I should have balanced the water chemistry and slowly got the pool clear through filtering. Also that I need a proper test kit and that pool store tests and test strips are unreliable.

Assuming what I've said above is correct, I have a few questions:

1) When floc is used, it is advised to vacuum on waste, not on filter. What is the reason for this? Not a lot has settled and I'd rather not put it on waste, so will I ruin my filter by running it now with the floc in it? (aka ditching the floc method once it's already added in). I'm trying to get the pool started, fix the chemistry and run it, but the floc (that didn't work) is making me reluctant to do so.

2) In the meantime while that I get a test kit, is it worth testing my CYA level through a pool store and using that as a ballpark range?

3) Any recommendations for test kits in Toronto, Ontario? (local/online)

Also, I should mention that I am progressing through Pool School right now. :)
Thank you so much!
 
Welcome to TFP!!:handwave:

I wish (as do you I'm sure) that you had not used the floc. It generally makes things worse.

You don't say what kind of filter, knowing that will help answer questions. As a matter of fact if you edit your signature and add the following information it will better frame our answers to you.


  • The size of your pool in gallons
  • If your pool is an AG (above ground) or IG (in ground)
  • If it's IG, tell us if it's vinyl, plaster/pebble, or fiberglass
  • The type filter you have (sand, DE, cartridge)
  • If you know, tell us the make and model of your pump and filter.
  • List any other equipment you have: SWG, second pump, etc.
  • Please mention if you fill the pool from a well or are currently on water restrictions

I'm a little confused, you say you "added a chlorinated shock". What was this specifically?

Pool store testing is so unreliable that I personally won't give advice based on it. Just like the neighbor who recommended floc, it can make things worse.

Got a friend who gets mail south of the border? Short of that the only test kit available to you is the Taylor K-2006-C. On company has the contract for the entire country of Canada and they make you pay for it.......
 
qdylan said:
And yes, the shock didn't do anything though.
Click to expand...
"Shocking" a pool rarely fixes the problem. That is why through the years the system we have come to call a SLAM Process has evolved. You raise the chlorine to the shock level (they had that part right) but you have to maintain it at the shock level until all the algae is dead. When you shocked the pool you killed a lot of algae. but, as son as the chlorine level dropped back below shock level they algae reproduces.
 
Oh okay, thank you!

Thoughts on question #1?
1) When floc is used, it is advised to vacuum on waste, not on filter. What is the reason for this? Not a lot has settled and I'd rather not put it on waste, so will I ruin my filter by running it now with the floc in it? (aka ditching the floc method once it's already added in). I'm trying to get the pool started, fix the chemistry and run it, but the floc (that didn't work) is making me reluctant to do so.
 
qdylan said:
Oh okay, thank you!

Thoughts on question #1?
1) When floc is used, it is advised to vacuum on waste, not on filter. What is the reason for this? Not a lot has settled and I'd rather not put it on waste, so will I ruin my filter by running it now with the floc in it? (aka ditching the floc method once it's already added in). I'm trying to get the pool started, fix the chemistry and run it, but the floc (that didn't work) is making me reluctant to do so.
Click to expand...
With a sand filter yo will not probably damage the filter.

The general recommendation to vacuum to waste is as you suspect to protect the filter. DE & cartridge filters can clog quickly with a lot of floc. The absolute worst that can happen to you is the sand gets damaged and gooey/sticky. if that happens you replace the sand. But, at some point you will probably have to deep clean the sand filter.

So, if it ever does settle, vacuum to waste. For now filter as usual.

For now, start to plan on the SLAM Process of that pool! it's time to swim.
 
Does the alum I used lose its effectiveness after a certain amount of time, so that I can wait for a while before running it through the filter?

Also, how would I know if the the sand on the inside is damaged/sticky?

Quite honestly, I wouldn't want to go into the sand filter yet due to my lack of knowledge, and the high costs of bringing in someone if things do go bad. Hence trying to get rid of the floc as safely as possible.
 

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TortugaPoolBoy said:
How old is the sand? Sounds like it needs changed to me also when using floc I put the filter on recirculate to bypass the filter. But That's just my 2 cents
Click to expand...
Sand seldom needs ot be changed, it doesn't wear out. The only time a sand change is required is when the sand is physically damaged like in a baqua conversion.

Puitting the filter on recirculate will not address his problem, floc floating free in the water column. it needs to be removed.

- - - Updated - - -

qdylan said:
Does the alum I used lose its effectiveness after a certain amount of time, so that I can wait for a while before running it through the filter?

Also, how would I know if the the sand on the inside is damaged/sticky?

Quite honestly, I wouldn't want to go into the sand filter yet due to my lack of knowledge, and the high costs of bringing in someone if things do go bad. Hence trying to get rid of the floc as safely as possible.
Click to expand...
See, that is why you have us - so we can teach you to do things yourself!

How about posting a photo of your filter. I looked at the manual on line bu there seem to be a couple of ways they could have plumbed it so I wan to be sure before I tell you something.

I doubt if the floc will gum up the sand. Just be ready to backwash regularly.
 
Hi QDylan,

Aquatic Pros by Aquatech Logistics (Mississauga)

Lowry and Associates - Pool, Spa and Industrial Testing Products (Newmarket)

Both will ship

I purchased my Taylor test kit from Lowry and got a good deal. They know about this website and have seen business go up because of it. I spoke with one of the business principals who told me he was considering contacting the site, and believe he even mentioned speaking with the site owner or someone affiliated with it. I am hoping 1 day the owner of this site can work out a deal with Lowry for discounts for US Canadian folks!!

Aquaticpros has refills for some products that are a bit cheaper than Lowry. I work near Aquaticpros and get my liquid Chlorine from them, they sell containers and refill at $0.58 per liter.
 
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