Water Milky after swimming and chlorine level always low.

reebok, we have PachinkoPlayer on a short dichlor regimen to get some CYA in there.

PachinkoPlayer, that's the stuff, "dichlor." So, to make sure I'm understanding this, you got one 1lb package, and yesterday you put in about a quarter of it. You put in more this morning, I guess? This lowered the pH some, but by this evening the FC was gone again. Exactly as I had planned, bwahahaha...

Check each morning and evening, put in 1/4 of the dichlor if the FC is below 2. When the dichlor is all gone, start using bleach instead. In your pool the rate is 2 cups of regular bleach adds about 5 to your FC (until it gets used up). For comparison, the 1/4 packages of dichlor add about 10 to your FC.

Keep the FC up there until the filter stops getting gunked up, and the water looks clear. And then maybe keep it up another day or so.
--paulr
 
so since I used the last of the dichlor just now, I will go in the morning and get more, along with a better testing system. (currently have the 3 test)

How often should I test the water? obviously if it is below 2, then I will add more dichlor. I checked the cartridge a few mins ago and there is still gunk going through, I am predicting that by tomorrow evening I will need to change it again.

Would it be best just to get a 10lb bucket of the sodium dichloro-s-triazinetrione? or just stick with the 1lb packages?

Thanks again guys, I really appreciate what you are doing!
 
No! No more dichlor! :whip: The point of the dichlor was not to add chlorine, it was to add (chlorine+CYA). Your CYA ought to be in the right place now, you really really really don't want to keep adding more. Only bleach from now on.

I'd keep testing at least twice a day as long as the problem continues. Three times, if it's no trouble. If the FC is low, add 4 cups (1 quart) of the 6% bleach, poured slowly in front of the return.
--paulr
 
We've been doing some seat-of-the-pants flying here, the spiffier test kit will give us a proper instrument panel. I am pretty confident we're not going to run into any mountains but there's some question of exactly which way is North (beating the metaphor into the ground).
--paulr
 
ok here it goes....

Hardness 250

Alkanlinity not accurate, not sure what they consider "RED"
Pink 400
dark pink/orangish 600

CYA N/A the test only went down to 30 and my cya is lower than that.

Total Chlorine N/A my test only goes up to 5 (bright yellow) and mine was a dark orange, so basically it is really high above 5

PH 8
 
BTW, while I was getting the test kit, I picked up some bleach, 12lb bag of arm and hammer baking soda, and mule borax that was close to the bleach (hope its the right kind of borax).

I also have PH minus in the so called pool building.

I know I need to lower the ph, etc but I am just going to be a "robot" so to speak and not do anything unless you guys tell me to do so...

You guys are so awsome! :goodjob:
 
You need to add some CYA to the water, aim for a level of between 30 and 50.

On the TA test, wipe the dropper tip with a damp tissue at the start and also every several drops. Also, you aren't looking for any specific shade of red. First, you add drops till the color starts to change to anything in the red/pink/yellow range. Then you continue adding drops until there is a drop that doesn't change the color any further. The final drop, which doesn't change the color, does not get counted. When a drop doesn't change the color any further you are done, even if a couple dozen more drops would change the color more.
 
PachinkoPlayer said:
ok here it goes....

Hardness 250

Alkanlinity not accurate, not sure what they consider "RED"
Pink 400
dark pink/orangish 600

CYA N/A the test only went down to 30 and my cya is lower than that.

Total Chlorine N/A my test only goes up to 5 (bright yellow) and mine was a dark orange, so basically it is really high above 5

PH 8

HI again....

You added a 1 lb package of Dichlor, which should have put your CYA pretty close to 30, if your pool gallons is accurate at 1,700.

If you want, you can get another 1 lb bag of Dichlor and add 4 ounces, that should put you above the 30 threshold, it should put you around 40 for CYA.

The TA test - can you do me a favor and run the TA test on your tap water out of your faucet? Wipe the tip of the dropper test in between drops, with a damp paper towel.

It's nice that you stocked up on the B and B but right now I'm pretty sure you won't need it. :wink: those products raise PH and TA and your levels are too high.

The acid yes, you should add it to lower the PH down to 7.2. We can help you figure out how much to add. What is the active ingredient in the "ph minus" that you have?
 

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also, as far as the gallons of the pool, the manual says something about a 23-2400gal capacity, but acording to our water meter, (checked before and after pool fill) we used right at 1700 gallons.

The liner had two marks on it to show where the 37inch water fill level is. But it was 1 inch from spilling over, and I knew it would be water lost after I got my wife, 2yr, and 4yr. daughters in there that like to jump and splash... (Of course Dad, has to splash back and throw them :lol: ) And I have found that keeping the pool at 32inches works out great!!!
 
Good that's better.

Okay, use about 1 cup of that PH minus to a bucket of pool water and pre-dissolve it and then pour it in to the return flow with the pump running.

Now that you are getting a handle on things, I would like you to learn how to use the Pool Calculator. It tells you how much of each chemical you need to treat your pool.

Every time your PH rises to 7.8 or higher you will need to add some acid to lower it back down.
Every nite you'll need to add a little bleach. So the Pool Calc tells you how much to add.
The instructions for using the Pool Calculator are here.

Give it a try, learn how to use it. You will find it very helpful. :goodjob:
 
Hey, I just thought of something....

Did you already add the acid? If not, I don't think you should. Sorry to be so confusing

It's not a huge problem for your situation... but PH can read a "false-high" when the chlorine is over 10. Since you can only test to 5, your chlorine is probably making the PH read higher than it is.

(If you already added the acid, it's not the end of the world, the PH will come back up because you have high TA.)
 

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