New to pools in Missouri City, Texas

[rkwan]

Hello from Missouri City, Texas! I have used a pool service last year and am attempting to do this myself this year. I have just received my TF-100 Test Kit and I have recorded the following test results: FC (0.5), CC (0), TC (0), pH (>8.2), T/A (250), CH (80), CYA (120).

Question... where should I start? Lower TA with muriatic acid first using the Pool Calculator? I have read the BBB article and can purchase everything at Walmart and Home Depot.

Or... do I worry first about Chlorine and pH as these are what are to be tested daily according to the "Basic Pool Care Schedule".

I just recorded the test results above on June 24 at 9pm and would like to move on this as soon as possible.

Thanks!

 

[frustratedpoolmom]

Hi and welcome.

You don't mention SWG so I'm going to assume this will be a normal BBB pool .

1. You need to lower your PH down to 7.2 ASAP with Muratic Acid. This will also lower the TA some.

After you get your other numbers in line, you can tackling lowering the TA for good so that the PH is more stable.

2. Your CYA is too high. Before you go about adjusting the other chems, you need to do a partial drain and refill to get your CYA down, 50 is ideal but I think in hot texas you can manage for now with 70. Use the Pool Calculator to determine how much water to drain.

There is an article in Pool School that tells you how to use the Pool Calculator. Have you read Pool School - it sounds like you have read some....

It may take a series of partial drains/refills. You would be safe to go down 1/3 at a time and refill, recirculate, retest and then repeat if necessary.

3. After your CYA is in range, you can readjust PH if it's high again.

4. Start chlorinating according to the CYA/Chlorine chart, keeping your FC levels in the recommended range for your CYA. So if you get your CYA down to 70, keep your FC between 5-8. Each nite you'll test, and add enough chlorine to reach 8. That should give you enough residual to last for 24 hours to test again, keeping you above your minimum which will be 5. Makes sense? If you are not above 5 24 hrs later, try targeting 9. If you are still not above 5, then you will need to do an overnight FC loss test to see if organics are consuming the chlorine. (The overnight test takes the sun out of the equasion.)

Lastly, if at anytime during these steps you see your PH at 7.8 or higher, lower the ph back down to 7.2 with muratic acid.

Okay, that's a good start, hope you aren't overwhelmed, it's alot of info.

Let us know if you need clarification on anything.

 

[frustratedpoolmom]

Oh yes, one more thing, after the above numbers are stable and you are feeling comfortable with your routine, you need to raise your CH with calcium chloride - you want to get it up to the mid 200's. 80 is too low.

 

[rkwan]

After adding 2 gallons of Muratic Acid, my pH was still >8.2 so I elected to drain some water.

I have just drained about 1/2 the water. Question, do you suggest washing the exposed part of the plaster with muratic acid or something? We also have a rock waterfall that looks old and dirty. Can I wash it off with the same acid?

Also, around the opening that goes into the skimmer baskets, there is some plaster missing and cement exposed. Should I cover it with something?

Thanks so much for your reply.

 

[frustratedpoolmom]

I'm not sure.

Maybe you should post that question in the "Build Use and Repair- Under Construction" section of the forum as a seperate post?

Is the plaster discolored or something?

I know there is a process called acid-washing but I believe it's best left to professionals and I'm pretty sure they don't use straight MA.

You do want to patch the plaster, I'm just not sure with what.

 

[anonapersona]

Since you need to raise CH, you can also use Cal-Hypo for your chlorine source. I'm in Houston and bought a pail of it from Leslie's, they call is Power Powder Shock. It is handy to keep on hand since it will last longer than a jug of chlorine will. Using Cal-Hypo for your chlorine won't add much to CH but in your case you can do it for awhile. You need to brush the pool after adding it to mix it well. You may also find Warehouse Pool Supply around there, I really like their prices on a lot of stuff.

 

[anonapersona]

After adding 2 gallons of Muratic Acid, my pH was still >8.2 so I elected to drain some water.

I have just drained about 1/2 the water. Question, do you suggest washing the exposed part of the plaster with muratic acid or something? We also have a rock waterfall that looks old and dirty. Can I wash it off with the same acid?

Might be better to mix some bleach with water and wear gloves and eye protection and just use a scrub brush. Not too strong, maybe 10 or 20% bleach at first to see how it works. Muriatic acid can really eat things up and it is nasty to work with. Would be a shame to eat a hole through the grout and cause a leak or something. I cleaned my waterfall with a random mix of cal-hypo that was too strong and it seemed to bleach the rocks out more than I wanted, so do be careful. You will need to hear from the pros, I am just a beginner, but I'll guess they will say that stains on plaster may come out when chlorine is up to level for awhile.

Also, around the opening that goes into the skimmer baskets, there is some plaster missing and cement exposed. Should I cover it with something?

Thanks so much for your reply.

At one of the local pool stores I found a two part epoxy that we used to patch some very small leaks in our pool under the rock border. Two tubes, one blue one white, you mix together and then apply to dry plaster or underwater, but must be algae free area. Cost $20, can find the name if you wish to call around to see who stocks it locally.

I also suggest testing your fill water. I found TA of 340 and with my waterfall that means that I am always finding pH going up if I am adding fill water.

 

[reebok]

if you need that epoxy, look for it at a hardware store. it's cheaper there (at least around these parts). it's been a while, but I think I got it for 6 or 7.