I bought a house in Sept 2013 and have not opened the pool ever. I had it closed and was in good working order when we purchased the house. It's a gunite pool that is medium sized and has had a loop lock cover on it the entire time. Need severe help never had a pool don't know where to start. Anything would be greatly appreciated
Please help. Haven't opened pool in 3 1/2 years. Never had a pool! Severe help needed
- Thread starter Flimflam22
- Start date
Welcome to TFP! We love challenges. First and foremost order one of the recommended test kits. The TF100 or the Taylor 2006. The experts will be along shortly to get you going. While you are waiting for your kit, get the cover off and start manually removing the solids out of the pool .
No pool store stuff, just plain old bleach but don't start adding anything until you get the solids out and start running the pump. You can start adding 1 gallon of bleach a day with the pump running until your kit gets there just keep cleaning and read Pool School several times. Once your kit comes we can systematically treat your pool and before you know it you will have a crystal clear oasis.
Awesome. Is there a point to when all the water should be removed from the pool? Like extremely disgusting status?
There are only a few circumstances where that needs to happen usually involving high cya which renders your bleach ineffective (read pool school cya/chlorine relationship). I am guessing since your pool has been sitting for so long you probably have a cya of 0. But won't know for sure until your test kit gets here. If you can swing it the speedstir will be of great help to you. We like pictures here also so don't be shy, we can watch the progress. Also please set up your signature with all the details of your pool, reference mine, that way when others join in to help they don't have to ask all the same questions. In line with that visit the Pool Math tab and figure the volume of your pool so you can dose it correctly.
Guess this is a good time to ask how I actually open the pool up. I had it winterized but have never opened it.
Well, once you have the solids out the best you can. 1st need some information on your equipment. If you can set up your signature. 2nd look in the skimmer and see if there is a plug in the bottom, in cold regions they use these plastic deals that allow for ice expansion remove it and insert the basket. 3rd pull the plugs in the returns and put the eyeballs in. 4th need to know what kind of filter you have then check to see if the drain was pulled out of the bottom, replace the plug. 5th look in the pump basket and see if plugs for it were stored in it, if they were then replace plugs basket and lid. Don't start pump until we know what you equipment is. Picture tell a thousand words.
Just to make the point again, I would strongly recommend getting the TF-100 kit and add the XL option. That should make sure that you have enough reagents to test as often as needed and no last minute panic to get more. I have a Speed Stir and it really does make the testing 'fun' 
Guess I'm going to have to buy the tf-100 online is there anything else I should buy at the same time
- - - Updated - - -
The ones that it shows at my local store are Taylor k-2005 dpd complete chlorine kit don't know if that can be used instead?
- - - Updated - - -
The ones that it shows at my local store are Taylor k-2005 dpd complete chlorine kit don't know if that can be used instead?
You will need the FAS/DPD test to measure the chlorine levels you'll be dealing with to get it back in shape, so K-2006 or TF-100. The TF-100 is probably best for you because it comes with more reagents you'll need (and add the XL option, because you'll probably need it this time).
As far as other stuff, you'll need a pole, leaf rake, and brush at a minimum, preferably a vacuum and hose too. The previous owner may have left some of this kind of stuff for you, so peek around. Pictures of anything you find as far as equipment and chemicals, and we can better help you get started.
As far as other stuff, you'll need a pole, leaf rake, and brush at a minimum, preferably a vacuum and hose too. The previous owner may have left some of this kind of stuff for you, so peek around. Pictures of anything you find as far as equipment and chemicals, and we can better help you get started.
Hi Flimflam22,
Welcome it may seem daunting at first but with a patience and education it is easy. May I suggest you add a signature to your profile which is a list of your equipment ( go to top of page under the big "POOL SCHOOL" button is "settings" click on it then left hand column under "My Settings" click on "edit signature". Put in pool size, and that it is gunite, what type of filter you have and what type of pump. Is the water all murky so you can not see much? If so before you start up pump and filter you need to be sure the return lines are not plugged shut and that the pressure gauge is still working (they are cheap, I would just replace it) Also familiarize yourself with the plumbing so you know how to work your equipment, you can take pictures and people can explain for you. The TF-100 from tftestkits.net is best bang for your buck. It is affiliated with this site but it is best bang for your buck ships fast as amazon. Taylor will do but more expensive. Get XL option for sure, they also have speedstir which I highly recommend because it makes testing easy. This is my third year opened pool this year in a few hours and was ready for swimming by the next day other than water too cold). My pool 3 years ago had not been opened for many years and not covered. Found many things in it including a grill. If you have a lot of solids like leaves and branches, I used a large mesh fishing net with a 3' mouth that caught leaves and branches and let water pass through. I broke a few leaf rakes before trying the fishing net. My hope is since you bought it and it was opened and paid to have it closed there are not any or few solids then it will be a breeze to bring up. I would not start adding any chemicals until you have equipment, test kit, and understand your system. My second season I did not know I should have covered with a solid cover and had a green swamp with strings of algae it, had it cleared and ready to swim in a week. Be sure to read "pool school" it is a great education and worth the time
Welcome it may seem daunting at first but with a patience and education it is easy. May I suggest you add a signature to your profile which is a list of your equipment ( go to top of page under the big "POOL SCHOOL" button is "settings" click on it then left hand column under "My Settings" click on "edit signature". Put in pool size, and that it is gunite, what type of filter you have and what type of pump. Is the water all murky so you can not see much? If so before you start up pump and filter you need to be sure the return lines are not plugged shut and that the pressure gauge is still working (they are cheap, I would just replace it) Also familiarize yourself with the plumbing so you know how to work your equipment, you can take pictures and people can explain for you. The TF-100 from tftestkits.net is best bang for your buck. It is affiliated with this site but it is best bang for your buck ships fast as amazon. Taylor will do but more expensive. Get XL option for sure, they also have speedstir which I highly recommend because it makes testing easy. This is my third year opened pool this year in a few hours and was ready for swimming by the next day other than water too cold). My pool 3 years ago had not been opened for many years and not covered. Found many things in it including a grill. If you have a lot of solids like leaves and branches, I used a large mesh fishing net with a 3' mouth that caught leaves and branches and let water pass through. I broke a few leaf rakes before trying the fishing net. My hope is since you bought it and it was opened and paid to have it closed there are not any or few solids then it will be a breeze to bring up. I would not start adding any chemicals until you have equipment, test kit, and understand your system. My second season I did not know I should have covered with a solid cover and had a green swamp with strings of algae it, had it cleared and ready to swim in a week. Be sure to read "pool school" it is a great education and worth the time
Seen worse man at least you can see the steps!
- - - Updated - - -
Throw in some pictures of the mechanical too
- - - Updated - - -
Throw in some pictures of the mechanical too
trying to add pictures of the pump and filter but it wont let me add anymore pictures. saying i went above my quota?
also came upon another issue of it sitting around so long, but the brick around the pool are verryyyy loose and a few even fell in the pool. what is the best way to rectify that situation?
Not too bad! I bet you don't have a ton of debris in there (other than bricks), likely just algae. A SLAM should go pretty well and that pool should look great! I can't help with ideas on the brick part, other than to have someone redo that surface. Unfortunately swimmers tend to hold on to the edges, so you might have to have that done soon or you'll find more bricks at the bottom of your pool. :-| If it's just the coping/edges, you might be able to use some kind of patching compound. But it looks like some of the bricks are chipping quite a bit too, so that may not work well.
One tip while you're waiting on the test kit would be to take a shop vac or at least a broom and clear up all the sand/debris/weeds around the pool. One good rain and you'll have even more crud to clean out of your pool! It might also be a good idea to go ahead and get an approximation for the number of gallons of water it holds. Just use a tape measure or pole to see how deep each side is, and use your rough 9x30 estimate with the average of that depth to get a feel for where to start.
One tip while you're waiting on the test kit would be to take a shop vac or at least a broom and clear up all the sand/debris/weeds around the pool. One good rain and you'll have even more crud to clean out of your pool! It might also be a good idea to go ahead and get an approximation for the number of gallons of water it holds. Just use a tape measure or pole to see how deep each side is, and use your rough 9x30 estimate with the average of that depth to get a feel for where to start.
Check out this post to add pictures. If you post to photobucket 1st then link hyperlink it you should be able to post more pictures. I think I would clean up and get rid of the existing mortar around loose bricks then re mortar them back in. I did it for a chimney, never a pool, there may be something I am missing so wait for the experts to reply on that one. I do not know much about plaster (gunite) pools except care is taken not to damage as it costs a lot to re-plaster. I have a friend who has extensive damage to his plaster for several years and other than cosmetics not a real problem but again the experts on this forum can give better info. First thing is to get ready to clean up that water. To do so you will need the test kit and equipment outlined by drharris. Then need to understand you plumbing system. Also you will need chlorine. You can get it wherever price is cheapest for the concentration. Many get it from Wallmart. there is a thead on here dedicated to the subject and who has it for sale I get 12.5% in 5 Gallon container for $12.50 at local pool store but most pool stores do not carry it that way they want you to buy Shock and tablets which are expensive and need to be used with much knowledge or they will mess you up and cost you a bundle. Around here pool stores are not looked upon favorable as the advice is bad many times and end up making a problem much worse than it was originally. You may also want to pick up some CYA (again look to Walmart in pool section, chlorine in households get 8% non scented.) Questions please keep asking. I will help where I can and where I can't others will fill in.