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Thread: Opening My Pool for the season

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    Opening My Pool for the season

    hope i am in the correct forum. This is the first time I am opening my pool using the water balance for SWGs. I know there i some algae in the pool, i have not taken the cover off yet, as I see light green in the skimmer. How do I go about "opening" the pool for the season while using the Water Balance for SWGs process? I have done nothing all winter except run the pump for about 1 hour per day. The temperature of the air is about 91 degrees. I have not tested the water yet.

    Thanks,

    Bill
    17,100 gal, AG ,vinyl, sand Hayward DreamLine, pump Hayward Power-Flo LX 1.5 HP single speed, august 2015 install, water test kit Taylor K-2005, Pentair IC20 SWG, water from community well.

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    Re: Opening My Pool for the season

    I'd go ahead and open the cover up; at this point you need to know what you're dealing with.

    If there is algae in the pool, you will need to do a SLAM to get rid of it. Depending on how the pool was closed, the algae in the skimmer could just be localized in the skimmer, or it could be throughout the pool. I had lots of larvae in my skimmer this season because I forgot to tape up the little hole in the skimmer cover. I just used a shop vac to get it out before starting the pool up, and it was no problem in the rest of the pool.

    Startup for a SWG pool isn't really different than a chlorine, since you'll be using bleach to get SLAM levels up anyway. Your SWG won't handle it. Also you will need the FAS-DPD test to maintain free chlorine levels for a SLAM.

    Another note is that IC20 is really underpowered for your 19Kgal pool. You should have an IC-40 at least. An IC-20 could work as long as you run the pump 24 hours per day and have good CYA levels, and only while the cell is new. After another year or so it won't even be able to maintain the minimum chlorine levels.
    20x40 28kgal in-ground vinyl built 2011, liner replaced 2017
    Pentair Tagelus TA60D sand filter, Pentair SuperFlow 1HP pump, Intellichlor IC40 SWG, Dolphin Active 30i
    City water, TF-100 test kit + speedstir.
    Recommended Levels | Chlorine/CYA Chart | SLAM

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    Re: Opening My Pool for the season

    Quote Originally Posted by drharris View Post
    I'd go ahead and open the cover up; at this point you need to know what you're dealing with.

    If there is algae in the pool, you will need to do a SLAM to get rid of it. Depending on how the pool was closed, the algae in the skimmer could just be localized in the skimmer, or it could be throughout the pool. I had lots of larvae in my skimmer this season because I forgot to tape up the little hole in the skimmer cover. I just used a shop vac to get it out before starting the pool up, and it was no problem in the rest of the pool.

    Startup for a SWG pool isn't really different than a chlorine, since you'll be using bleach to get SLAM levels up anyway. Your SWG won't handle it. Also you will need the FAS-DPD test to maintain free chlorine levels for a SLAM.

    Another note is that IC20 is really underpowered for your 19Kgal pool. You should have an IC-40 at least. An IC-20 could work as long as you run the pump 24 hours per day and have good CYA levels, and only while the cell is new. After another year or so it won't even be able to maintain the minimum chlorine levels.
    I have removed the cover and the pool is indeed green throughout. Should I back flush the filter and then run it over night before I start the SLAM process?I have seen two different SLAM methods on TFP. One is a long written out process the other is a video which I need a FAS-DPD test kit, which I believe I have and the processs is to check thepH first which should be 7.5 - 7.8 and what to do if it is higher or lower.Next test CYA which should be 50 - 80 ppm for salt (I have not added salt yet), then check FC and use the poolmath to calculate the amount of bleach to reach the "slam" level. It also states to check the FC hourly and make the necessary adjustments to keep the slam FC level. Hope I have this correct. Please advise.

    Thanks,
    17,100 gal, AG ,vinyl, sand Hayward DreamLine, pump Hayward Power-Flo LX 1.5 HP single speed, august 2015 install, water test kit Taylor K-2005, Pentair IC20 SWG, water from community well.

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    Re: Opening My Pool for the season

    Yep - pH, then CYA (so you can calculate your SLAM FC levels), then start bleaching it up at proper levels. Don't run the pump in filter mode unless you're around to babysit - when that algae starts to hit it you may need to keep an eye on pressure to backwash pretty often. Recirculation mode is best when you're not around. Be sure to keep sweeping and cleaning out any gunk with a net or vacuum often.

    Don't worry about salt until you get things sparkling. If your CYA is 0, only go up to 30ish ppm just to keep your FC loss from non-algae sources minimized, and be aware that 0 could mean it's broken down into ammonia which may make the SLAM take longer. Keep us updated and we'll be here to help!


    20x40 28kgal in-ground vinyl built 2011, liner replaced 2017
    Pentair Tagelus TA60D sand filter, Pentair SuperFlow 1HP pump, Intellichlor IC40 SWG, Dolphin Active 30i
    City water, TF-100 test kit + speedstir.
    Recommended Levels | Chlorine/CYA Chart | SLAM

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    Re: Opening My Pool for the season

    Quote Originally Posted by drharris View Post
    Yep - pH, then CYA (so you can calculate your SLAM FC levels), then start bleaching it up at proper levels. Don't run the pump in filter mode unless you're around to babysit - when that algae starts to hit it you may need to keep an eye on pressure to backwash pretty often. Recirculation mode is best when you're not around. Be sure to keep sweeping and cleaning out any gunk with a net or vacuum often.

    Don't worry about salt until you get things sparkling. If your CYA is 0, only go up to 30ish ppm just to keep your FC loss from non-algae sources minimized, and be aware that 0 could mean it's broken down into ammonia which may make the SLAM take longer. Keep us updated and we'll be here to help!
    Hello,

    Here are this mornings numbers

    pH 7.9

    CYA 30 it could go lower but i do not have a test kit that goes lower than 30.

    I will try to figure out how to use the table to calculate what SLAM # I need.

    Thanks.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by millerman92 View Post
    Hello,

    Here are this mornings numbers

    pH 7.9

    CYA 30 it could go lower but i do not have a test kit that goes lower than 30.

    I will try to figure out how to use the table to calculate what SLAM # I need.

    Thanks.
    Considering the SWG chart does not show CYA for 30 is it possible to use the non-SWG chart as there is no salt in the pool in order for the SWG to make Chlorine?

    Thanks,
    17,100 gal, AG ,vinyl, sand Hayward DreamLine, pump Hayward Power-Flo LX 1.5 HP single speed, august 2015 install, water test kit Taylor K-2005, Pentair IC20 SWG, water from community well.

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    Re: Opening My Pool for the season

    First, you should lower your pH to around 7.2, to allow for it to rise while under SLAM. While that's going you can't trust the pH test, so better to get it down beforehand.

    Yes, use SLAM value for CYA of 30 on non-SWG. Once everything clears up, you will then boost CYA up to the right values for SWG, add salt, get SWG operational. Higher CYA is not in your favor during a SLAM, but you do need some level of it to prevent excessive FC loss. If your CYA is actually less than 30, it would be worthwhile to get a pound or two going now (in socks on a return).
    20x40 28kgal in-ground vinyl built 2011, liner replaced 2017
    Pentair Tagelus TA60D sand filter, Pentair SuperFlow 1HP pump, Intellichlor IC40 SWG, Dolphin Active 30i
    City water, TF-100 test kit + speedstir.
    Recommended Levels | Chlorine/CYA Chart | SLAM

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    Re: Opening My Pool for the season

    Quote Originally Posted by drharris View Post
    First, you should lower your pH to around 7.2, to allow for it to rise while under SLAM. While that's going you can't trust the pH test, so better to get it down beforehand.

    Yes, use SLAM value for CYA of 30 on non-SWG. Once everything clears up, you will then boost CYA up to the right values for SWG, add salt, get SWG operational. Higher CYA is not in your favor during a SLAM, but you do need some level of it to prevent excessive FC loss. If your CYA is actually less than 30, it would be worthwhile to get a pound or two going now (in socks on a return).
    Using turtle to get up the bottom feeding leaves. Am I using stabilizer from pool store or is there something I buy at say Walmart? I have forgotten.

    Thanks for the info.
    17,100 gal, AG ,vinyl, sand Hayward DreamLine, pump Hayward Power-Flo LX 1.5 HP single speed, august 2015 install, water test kit Taylor K-2005, Pentair IC20 SWG, water from community well.

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    Re: Opening My Pool for the season

    Quote Originally Posted by millerman92 View Post
    Using turtle to get up the bottom feeding leaves. Am I using stabilizer from pool store or is there something I buy at say Walmart? I have forgotten.

    Thanks for the info.
    Walmart should have what you need. Just make sure it's 100% cyanuric acid.


    20x40 28kgal in-ground vinyl built 2011, liner replaced 2017
    Pentair Tagelus TA60D sand filter, Pentair SuperFlow 1HP pump, Intellichlor IC40 SWG, Dolphin Active 30i
    City water, TF-100 test kit + speedstir.
    Recommended Levels | Chlorine/CYA Chart | SLAM

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    Re: Opening My Pool for the season

    Quote Originally Posted by drharris View Post
    Walmart should have what you need. Just make sure it's 100% cyanuric acid.
    Walmart is out of stabilizer will try tomorrow and then look at their marketplace store. How long does a SLAM usually last?

    I added 4 cups bleach for overnight, pump is running.

    Thanks so much for your help.
    17,100 gal, AG ,vinyl, sand Hayward DreamLine, pump Hayward Power-Flo LX 1.5 HP single speed, august 2015 install, water test kit Taylor K-2005, Pentair IC20 SWG, water from community well.

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    Re: Opening My Pool for the season

    Quote Originally Posted by millerman92 View Post
    Walmart is out of stabilizer will try tomorrow and then look at their marketplace store. How long does a SLAM usually last?

    I added 4 cups bleach for overnight, pump is running.

    Thanks so much for your help.
    I continue to keep the FC @ 12 per the table. I have used 968 oz ($22.00) of bleach and I can see the bottom of the pool and it is no longer green

    How much more bleach do u think I need to use to have the pool crystal clear?

    Thanks,
    17,100 gal, AG ,vinyl, sand Hayward DreamLine, pump Hayward Power-Flo LX 1.5 HP single speed, august 2015 install, water test kit Taylor K-2005, Pentair IC20 SWG, water from community well.

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    Re: Opening My Pool for the season

    Once it looks clear and not cloudy, you can do an overnight FC loss test (see Pool School). As long as you pass that, the water looks clear, and you have no CC, you should be done with the SLAM. It could be one more day, it could be another week. Some people get really lucky, others have to deal with weird stain issues and algae hiding in nooks and crannies.

    Some people like using a bit of DE in their filter to clean up the cloudiness faster, but you have to do it at a time you'll be really observant to the filter pressure - it will clear a lot of dead algae really quickly. But I'd only do it if you plan to use DE more often or else you can borrow from a neighbor; it takes a LONG time to get through the box if you're just adding a cup to a sand filter.
    20x40 28kgal in-ground vinyl built 2011, liner replaced 2017
    Pentair Tagelus TA60D sand filter, Pentair SuperFlow 1HP pump, Intellichlor IC40 SWG, Dolphin Active 30i
    City water, TF-100 test kit + speedstir.
    Recommended Levels | Chlorine/CYA Chart | SLAM

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    Re: Opening My Pool for the season

    Quote Originally Posted by drharris View Post
    Once it looks clear and not cloudy, you can do an overnight FC loss test (see Pool School). As long as you pass that, the water looks clear, and you have no CC, you should be done with the SLAM. It could be one more day, it could be another week. Some people get really lucky, others have to deal with weird stain issues and algae hiding in nooks and crannies.

    Some people like using a bit of DE in their filter to clean up the cloudiness faster, but you have to do it at a time you'll be really observant to the filter pressure - it will clear a lot of dead algae really quickly. But I'd only do it if you plan to use DE more often or else you can borrow from a neighbor; it takes a LONG time to get through the box if you're just adding a cup to a sand filter.
    I have just checked FC =8 cc=.5

    cya successfully raised to 40

    I will add the CH

    and

    CYA to raise to 50

    and check in A.M.

    Thanks.
    17,100 gal, AG ,vinyl, sand Hayward DreamLine, pump Hayward Power-Flo LX 1.5 HP single speed, august 2015 install, water test kit Taylor K-2005, Pentair IC20 SWG, water from community well.

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    Re: Opening My Pool for the season

    Have you completed the SLAM- you don't want to add CYA until you have completed the SLAM.
    11 000 gallons, IG, Fibreglass, Monarch Sand Filter, Davey Typhoon C100M 1HP pump, Davey Chloromatic Mc16CTO ESR SWG, Davey Pool Wall Climba Robot, Daisy Solar Cover,
    K-2006

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    Re: Opening My Pool for the season

    Quote Originally Posted by Jezza View Post
    Have you completed the SLAM- you don't want to add CYA until you have completed the SLAM.
    Hello,

    I thought I was helping my FC as we have much sunlight beating down on the pool from sunup to sundown. If this is not the case and I have most likely gone to CYA of 50 and still using my FC goal on 12 should I adjust my SLAM to take care of the new CYA? If so how do I do that or should I just keep the my original SLAM goal?

    Sorry I just thought I was helping my FC.

    Thanks,
    17,100 gal, AG ,vinyl, sand Hayward DreamLine, pump Hayward Power-Flo LX 1.5 HP single speed, august 2015 install, water test kit Taylor K-2005, Pentair IC20 SWG, water from community well.

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    Re: Opening My Pool for the season

    Yep if you have raised your CYA then you need to raise the FC SLAM level to match. If you think you are at 50 then your new SLAM level will be 20 FC.

    Did you end up performing the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test (OCLT)? If so what were the results of that test?
    11 000 gallons, IG, Fibreglass, Monarch Sand Filter, Davey Typhoon C100M 1HP pump, Davey Chloromatic Mc16CTO ESR SWG, Davey Pool Wall Climba Robot, Daisy Solar Cover,
    K-2006

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    Re: Opening My Pool for the season

    Quote Originally Posted by Jezza View Post
    Yep if you have raised your CYA then you need to raise the FC SLAM level to match. If you think you are at 50 then your new SLAM level will be 20 FC.

    Did you end up performing the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test (OCLT)? If so what were the results of that test?
    I have not run OCLT as it was my understanding that it would be done once the pool water was clear.

    Thanks,

    - - - Updated - - -

    I posted:

    I have just checked FC =8 cc=.5

    cya successfully raised to 40

    I will add the CH

    and

    CYA to raise to 50

    and check in A.M.


    Thanks.


    Hello,

    I thought I was helping my FC as we have much sunlight beating down on the pool from sunup to sundown. If this is not the case and I have most likely gone to CYA of 50 and still using my FC goal on 12 should I adjust my SLAM to take care of the new CYA? If so how do I do that or should I just keep the my original SLAM goal?

    Sorry I just thought I was helping my FC.

    Thanks,"

    Jezza posted:



    "Yep if you have raised your CYA then you need to raise the FC SLAM level to match. If you think you are at 50 then your new SLAM level will be 20 FC"
    17,100 gal, AG ,vinyl, sand Hayward DreamLine, pump Hayward Power-Flo LX 1.5 HP single speed, august 2015 install, water test kit Taylor K-2005, Pentair IC20 SWG, water from community well.

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    Re: Opening My Pool for the season

    Ok- if you believe your CYA is now 50 then you need to raise your FC level to 20 and maintain that level as much as you can . Whatever you do don't add any more CYA.
    11 000 gallons, IG, Fibreglass, Monarch Sand Filter, Davey Typhoon C100M 1HP pump, Davey Chloromatic Mc16CTO ESR SWG, Davey Pool Wall Climba Robot, Daisy Solar Cover,
    K-2006

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