Pool Still Green

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Skylertinnin

Skylertinnin

0
May 16, 2017
62
Jasper Ga
Am I on the right track? I am new to opening the pool myself, as I usually let someone do it but the fees were getting out of hand. I am using the BBB method. I started with a ph that had to be well below 7.0. Very yellow water and it would take about 40+ drops to get the water to change at all. (Taylor k-2006). The Ph now takes about 10-15 drops to get it to 7.4 so Its slowly increasing. I am out of the CYA test liquid so I've ordered more and it will be here tomorrow so I can't give an accurate read on that yet. Here's the part I'm concerned about. I bought a certain liquid chlorine from Walmart and after learning more about the manufacturer date i found out it was more of a waste of money than it was a help to my pool. I've since purchased 18 jugs of 8% bleach and I've put all in yesterday. Worried I'm not putting enough for my 33,000 gallon pool bc all it did was turn the water light green cloudy. Lastly there's bubbles on the top of my water because my mom put the rest of an algaecide bottle 2 days ago and it started bubbling yesterday. Forgot to mention, pollen everywhere. It's that normal? I read on here that the chlorine will slowly take care of the bubbles.

Mod note: I have merged all of Skyler's threads so the whole story is in on thread. Kim TFP MOD
 
Re: Pool Still Green

Hello and welcome to TFP! :wave: I have to say, this first thing I would do right now is stop. Just hang tight and don't add anything else to the water until you get the CYA refills. Definitely don't let anyone add products to the water because many algaecides add copper which is just a new set of problems that can only be fixed by changing water. The bubbles/foam can be a reaction between the enormous amount of chlorine added combined with the algaecide. In addition, that amount of bleach all at once without knowing your CYA could cause other problems. So here's what I would like for you to do:
1. If you can test pH with your K-2006 kit, adjust it to about 7.2. Use the Poolmath calculator to determine how much of a product you need to add to increase/decrease pH to 7.2. That calculator is much more accurate.
2. Update your signature with your pool type and equipment. We'll need that info in the future.
3. Keep your system running and brush the pool as often as you can each day. Watch your filter pressure as it could increase quickly with algae requiring cleaning.
4. Read the SLAM link below in my sig. You'll use that once you verify your CYA.

So for now, just let the pool settle. Other than adjusting your pH, don't add anything else until we know your CYA and we'll help you from there. Nice to have you with us.
 
Re: Pool Still Green

My pools ph test is showing up yellow and requires 20 drops to get it at 7.4. I can do the conversions of how much I need but I've read baking soda can raise ph and borax can as well. I'm not sure which one is best to use. Please help
 
Re: Pool Still Green

Skyler,

In my opinion, your best bet is to get your CYA under control first..

Adjusting your water just so that you can drain it, does not make much sense to me.

Once you get your CYA down to 30, or so, then we can start working on getting all the chemicals balanced.

Thanks for posting,

Jim R.
 
Re: Pool Still Green

Okay, thanks for the update. So let's get the bad news out of the way first. Your CYA is way too high. The only way to lower the CYA is by water exchange. A test over 100 means it could actually be much higher. I would recommend doing a diluted CYA test as noted on the TFP Pool School - CYA page, starting at Step 8.

Once you do that, post back with your new CYA test result in hopes we can see exactly how high over 100 the CYA is.
 

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Re: Pool Still Green

Pool math will make recommendations for FCYA level--30-50. Since you are SLAMing, shooting for the low side will reduce the FC level you need to maintain during the SLAM.

Seeing as you are over 100, you will want to remove more than half your water. With a liner pool, this may cause your liner to get disturbed if you are in a high water table--basically, the liner could start floating on the water table. If this is the case, consider the tarp method, or remove/add in smaller amounts so the pool stays mostly filled. This second method will take more total water.
 
Re: Pool Still Green

Hello! Ive been working to balance all my levels and i just tested my CH and it immediately turned purple after the first 5 drops. Any advice on what this means or what to do? Ive brought my CYA from around 150 to 80 and I'm aiming for 60 since its 85 or hotter (by the time I'm finished it'll probably be in the mid 90's) where i live and my pool has about 6 hours of direct sunlight. Should 60 be good? Ph is between 7.2-7.4 so I'm happy with that and I'm hoping tonight I'm going to be able to start the SLAM process. Pool is currently a light green cloudy color.
 
Re: Pool Still Green

A CYA of 60 will work for summer, but I wouldn't let it get any higher for now. As you noted, pH is perfect for the pending SLAM. As for the purple, it could have to do with metal ions in the water as noted on the TFP Pool School - Calcium Hardness page:
The sample may turn purple during the test, or go to blue for a moment and then turn back to red/pink. This is called a "fading endpoint" and is caused by interference from metal ions. If this happens, do the test again, but this time add five drops of R-0012 before adding any R-0010 or R-0011L. Remember to count the initial five drops in the total.
In extreme cases, a fading endpoint may occur even when adding five drops of R-0012 at the start. If that happens, mix pool water with an equal quantity of distilled water, test that, and then multiply the result by two.
Click to expand...

So once you're ready to SLAM, increase your FC to 24 and don't stop until you pass all 3 SLAM criteria. Good luck!
 
Re: Pool Still Green

I have started slamming my pool twice already, only to realize my CYA was way too high and i was wasting bleach. I have finally gotten the CYA down to between 40-50 (which I'm happy with bc of the sunlight my pool gets). The pool was DARK green and filled with debris but it has been cleaned and is now a light green cloudy color. Someone please walk me through getting it clear. The pool calculator says i need to get my FC to 20 and it is currently at 8. I know i need 5 bottles of my bleach to do this. Am i ready to shock again? I don't want to waste anymore bleach. Also what is the rate i should see my pool clearing bc its stayed a light green color for about a week. Is this normal?
Levels
PH-7.0
CH-40
CYA-45
FC-8
TA-60
 
Re: Pool Still Green

Good job on taking control and lowering CYA. :goodjob:

A day or two maintaining FC at 20 should turn that pool blue-grey, and another couple days at 20 FC with the filter going should clear it. It's all explained in the SLAM Process article. Remember what that stands for Shock Level And Maintain. One megadose of bleach won't cut it. That will kill a lot of algae, but the vigorous algae will survive and reproduce if the FC levels are allowed to fall. Then you get the neverending green pool. You have to knock the algae down and kick it. Don't let it get back up. It's a deathmatch between you and algae, so don't let up. That's the secret: And Maintain.

Here's a recent thread that shows the progression. Just scroll through page after page and look at the pictures. 14 years of pool stores and failure...
 
Re: Pool Still Green

Okay I've posted on here multiples times and I've gotten help and luckily I've managed to get my pool to a light green cloudy color. Ive been at this for about 3 weeks now :(
the cloudy color has been present for about 1 and a half weeks with no signs of clearing up. Ive been vacuuming to waste for about 3 days now. My FC is about 15-16 every night and then back to 12 every morning. I realize theres still algae or the FC wouldn't drop but it doesn't seem like any dead algae is being cleared out. After shocking for this long 3 weeks, shouldn't my water be showing improvement? Also just read that DE filter powder shouldn't shoot back into pool and I've noticed mine does. I haven't found any rips in the grids so does anyone have any idea how to fix this? I want to do this without paying a pool company but I'm worried i won't be able to. :(
 

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