Trying to open pool at our new house

May 15, 2017
7
Salem, NH
20170511_190244.jpg20170513_153330.jpg20170515_062235.jpgHi all, thanks for all the helpful tips I've seen in other threads.
We just moved to a house with an above ground pool, which hadn't been used in 2 years, though the guy did add shock once last summer (w no working pump). I hired a company to come open the pool. They took the cover off, put in algaecide, and dropped in the steps but couldn't vacuum since the water level wasn't high enough on the skimmer. They also left me with a 1 lb bag of shock to use once i got the water level up. So it wasn't a great use of money imo. I wouldn't do it again.
Since then, I've scooped tons of leaves out of the pool, brushed the sides and bottom, put in the initial shock, added alkalinity up stuff the previous owners left (test stick said alk was almost 0), and added another 2 lbs of shock 2 days later when the pool had improved only marginally. We had a brand new cartridge filter system that has been clogging quickly so ive been taking it out and spraying it off everyday.
I'm trying to attach a time series of pics from day 1 (thurs), day 3 (sat), and this am. Will try again once i post the thread. I dont see an option for pics on my mobile interface for the site.
Is it clearing as quickly as it should? What am I not doing that I should be? Any tips are appreciated. Thanks!
 
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Welcome, Hibiscus07!

The first thing everybody is going to ask for is your pool details - size, equipment. See here for how to put this in your signature: Pool School - Read This BEFORE You Post

Second, we need good test results. You're absolutely right that the pool company's opening isn't worth the money, and the bagged shock could contain CYA you may not need. Consider purchasing a TF-100 test kit, which seems expensive but it will save you money in the long run. Those test strips you're using now could be dead and are definitely inaccurate, so you might have just boosted alkalinity for no reason at all (and likely didn't need to anyway, since AG pools probably don't need much).

Third, be sure to read up on Pool School. It's a lot of information to take in, but once you learn it, you'll be a pro in no time. Everybody here is super helpful and will make sure you get things opened up right.
 
^^ All good recommendations. Welcome to TFP! :wave: No doubt your opening experience was less than desirable, and once you learn the ropes yourself, you'll see for yourself what a waste it was. On another note, do not add anymore algaecide. Depending on what type they added, it could cause more problems than what you already have. Without a doubt, everything you do from this point forward needs to begin with accurate at-home testing. We recommend the TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C. I use the TF-100 and have never looked back with regret. Since you have algae, you'll use more reagents because of additional testing. I would suggest the XL Option and also consider the magnetic speedstir. You may question the investment, but rest assured what you spend on the test kit will pay for itself in accuracy, elimination of redundant products, and time.

In my sig you'll see a few "vital links". I suggest you review those as well and bookmark them for future reference. You'll use them often. Once you get one of the proper test kits, post a full set of test results and we'll get you fixed-up in no time. Nice to have you with us.
 
Here are the details I do know, now in my signature if it's live now:
Oval, above-ground pool. Pool is probably 20 years old, but liner appears unfaded, so probably only a few years old. Size is approx 12' x' 24' x 52" (~7,500 gallons?). Brand new pump with cartridge filter-- Hydromatic PRC 90 (90 SF/ 1 HP) pump with Black Diamond cartridge.
First-time pool owner. Pool has been out of use for several years and full of algae as of May 2017.
We have hard well water--was about 14 GPG at last water test.
 
We have hard well water
This may be your biggest obstacle. We won't know until you get your test kit and begin to adjust all the levels. Well water typically has a good bit of iron in it. Iron content in water varies from location to location, but if you have enough of it, the iron will react with your chlorine (bleach) changing your water to colors like ice tea or green. The iron can also try to precipitate-out and try to stain the pool surfaces. So it's extremely important to have the proper test kit (i.e. TF-100 XL option - in my link below). Accurate results are vital in your scenario to try and prevent iron staining.

You can read more about that subject on the TFP Pool School - Metals in the Water and Metal Stains page.
 
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