Pristine Blue to Chlorine

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H

hotnjax

0
Jun 23, 2009
21
Jacksonville Fl.
Ok, I will first admit I got suckered into the Pristine Blue(PB) Crud. After reading on and off for 2 days I was quickly convinced that PB is not the way to go so my question is how do I go about converting? This pool is only two weeks old so not much of that Crud is in there.
Is it possible without draining the tank? I've read that I can do it w/o draining but the copper will always be in there....is that a bad thing?
I obviously need to test water, get ph to 7.2-7.4 then shocking...am I correct?

So I go to pool place, get water tested and buy a bunch of chlorine.....will they pretty much tell me what I need to do? Will I have to change my sand filter and if so how much does that cost?

Thanks for any help. I am looking to starting the process asap.
Oh and whats the difference between BBB and chlorine pools?
Sean
 
Hi there - did you read other topics about Pristine Blue? Have you read Pool School? The BBB method is explained there. Read all the articles, and it will start to sink in.

Converting to BBB after using Pristine Blue isn't the same as converting from Baquacil, which requires shocking and changing sand.

You'll need to get a full set of test results, especially for copper, from the pool store. DON'T BUY anything from them or listen to their advice.

Come back here, post your results and we'll get you straight. :goodjob:
 
Pristine Blue, which contains copper, is not an EPA approved sanitizer.
It is a pesticide. Your best bet would be to drain and refill, unless some of the chem pros here recommend a specific sequester. There's a problem with that because the copper is most likely chelated, which means it is bound by another chemical.
Just to prove to you that your pool store "learned advice" :hammer: is bad: Pristine Blue's web site http://www.pristineblue.com/faq.asp warns not to use it for 0-6 months old pools.

Shy away from pool store's recommendations. They are in the biz to sell chems, not to help your pool. Their "free" water analysis is their best tool to sell you what you don't need.
 
Wifes at the pool place, I just got off the phone with the guy. He's say's that there's 0 chlorine and he is going to try to make is 3 ppm. Also, he said that "the copper will eventually float out and get flitered" when I asked about a Copper sequestrant. My wife wants to do exactly what they are telling her to and I am trying to tell her that they might be feeding us Crud we don't need.

Here are the "numbers" from my wife over the phone:
0 chlorine
20 Stabilizer
7.6 ph
125 hardness
110 alkalinity


So what you think?
 
Thanks for the quick response! That's what I told the my wife but she dismissed it and the pool guy didnt have a clue about it or he would have tested for it. So, 100% without a doubt, my pool will get stained if my copper is too high? I just added the Pristine Blue two weeks ago and it was "good" for there system. We just tested in a crappy tester and it was .2.

So what ya think?
 

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ok, talked to the pool guy again and he dropped the ball on the metal. They test for TDS (he said is total metal and not just copper) and it was 3000ppm but he missed it and didn't give my wife anything for it. He said it is supposed to be below 1500ppm. Sound right? He said I can stop by and pick something up for it....

Prior to knowing this my wife put in the Calcium and Stabilizer. . . . .but no Chlorine and told her not to until we get the TDS down. Am I on the right path so far?

Sorry about bombarding you with ?'s, just don't want to mess it up.
Also, 2.5 gallons for chlorine about right? Tested and it was Zero.
 
TDS is a crock. Don't worry about TDS and he is totally Pool Storing your wife. :rant: Gawd sometimes I despise pool stores! Calcium levels as low as 50 are fine for vinyl liners. The guy doesn't know what he is talking about. The main thing that will hurt your pool liner is low PH (and high levels of COPPER! :hammer: LOL)

Metal testing is a separate test all together, and if your cheap metal test kit said your copper level was .2 then I would go by that. Or find a different pool store and ask them to test your Copper and Iron levels.

Regardless, find a different pool store. This one will bleed you dry. :wink:
 
Okay I see now, your Total Hardness was 125.
Your calcium alone was 20? Okay the calcium addition was fine (not necessary but harmless anyway)

If you use 10% you'll need about 1.4 gallons to raise your FC up to 10, which is a good way to start.

Stabilizer - you need to vacume that up into the filter asap and then not clean/backwash the filter for several days, to let it dissolve. Run the filter non stop for 24 hours while it's dissolving in the filter.

Have you used the pool calculator yet? IT will help you figure out how much of each chem to add.

Test your chlorine each nite, you'll need to add some each night to keep your FC levels according to your CYA level - refer to the chart.

I advise you to invest in a good test kit, either the TF100 or the Taylor k-2006. Then you can avoid the pool store. :wink:
 
Ok, now I'm kinda getting it. Two question in normal peoples terms. FC is going to be around 10 but the other chlorine is at 3ppm? Whats the diff between the two and whats the other chlorine (like FC). . . . .

Secondly, which test kit would you recommend and where can I buy it. No problem buying it online either. . .
 

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