Should do it by the TFP book? ...

[powergator]

FC=9.0
pH=7.4
TA=70
CA=440
CYA=75
Salt=5400
By Taylor K-2006

So, I checked the SWG manual and it lists up to 4500 ppm salt is ideal. They say 6000 ppm is normally recommended for "max" but that the unit will operate up to 35000 ppm. The Chlorinator is set to 40%.

Any real basis to take any action on this water? The SWG shows 4500 ppm. Seems like a waste to dump a bunch of water. You think the summer rains will dilute the salt at some point?

Last week I got FC=7.0 and CYA=90. Any thoughts on why FC went up?

Last topic: I have a MA needy pool (1/3 gallon a week). I shut the bubbler, and reduced the waterfall. It helped some. I tried to balance the spa supply and return to just stop the waterfall; with the spa on reduced return. We have 3-way-valves from the supplies and to the returns. So, when the pump turns off, the spa drains down to the pool level partially exposing the pool finish if I try to balance the spa with a little supply(drain) water. What would you do to turn the waterfall off without turning the spa green. All manual system. No automation except turning the pump on and off.

Thanks,
Gator

 

[Richard320]

If the SWG is working, the salt level is okay. You'll lose some through splashout and backwashes over the course of the season.

You can reduce the aeration causing pH rise and lower the SWG output to match demand by running the pump fewer hours. You might be surprised at how few hours you really need to keep the water clear. Pool School - Determine Pump Run Time
Just keep the math straight 6 hours pump X 50% SWG is the same as 12 hours on and 25% and so on.

I gave up trying to balance spa in and out. It was too risky. If the skimmer got blocked, the suction would increase at the spa drain and eventually suck it dry. I keep the spa drain off and send about 20% of the return water through it. That's plenty to keep it mixed.

You either need to install or repair a check valve in the spa return line. That will let water flow into the spa but prevent it from siphoning back into the pool. There are pictures of various check valves in Pool School - Visual Encyclopedia of Pool Equipment

 

[powergator]

Thanks Richard, sounds like good advice.

I'm pretty close on the SWG setting, since the rain and hot weather is around the corner. I think I'm on a 8 hr reduced speed run time on the SWG. So maybe just try 6 hrs and start later in the morning. (Pool is shaded until just before lunch.)

The spa only drains down if I have the 3-way on the supplies cracked to include a bit of spa water. So, if I keep the spa drain shut, shouldn't need a check right?

With my pool being screened, what cleaner would you recommend? Robot or suction? Brand/Model? Thinking reliable but less expensive robot or a better quality suction cleaner.if it brushes the walls and floors, 1 less thing for me to do...?

Gator

 

[Jimrahbe]

Gator,

I noticed you asked..... "Last week I got FC=7.0 and CYA=90. Any thoughts on why FC went up?"

Most SWCG's are brainless do-as-they-are-told machines. They have no idea what the FC level is, all they know is to produce chlorine at the times they are told to do so.

You are the SWCG's brain... you have to routinely test your FC and then adjust the output to meet your pools needs. As the weather changes, you will have to keep adjusting the pump run time and/or output percentage to control your FC level.

Unfortunately, It is not a set and forget type of system.

Thanks for posting,

Jim R.

 

[Richard320]

Thanks Richard, sounds like good advice.

I'm pretty close on the SWG setting, since the rain and hot weather is around the corner. I think I'm on a 8 hr reduced speed run time on the SWG. So maybe just try 6 hrs and start later in the morning. (Pool is shaded until just before lunch.)

The spa only drains down if I have the 3-way on the supplies cracked to include a bit of spa water. So, if I keep the spa drain shut, shouldn't need a check right?

With my pool being screened, what cleaner would you recommend? Robot or suction? Brand/Model? Thinking reliable but less expensive robot or a better quality suction cleaner.if it brushes the walls and floors, 1 less thing for me to do...��

Gator

Mine siphons through either three way valve. But it doesn't matter since my spa isn't elevated.

I'm a Luddite. I use a manual vacuum and brush. I have no personal experience with any kind of auto cleaner. You'll have to search the forums for opinions on that.

 

[powergator]

Gator,

I noticed you asked..... "Last week I got FC=7.0 and CYA=90. Any thoughts on why FC went up?"

Most SWCG's are brainless do-as-they-are-told machines. They have no idea what the FC level is, all they know is to produce chlorine at the times they are told to do so.

You are the SWCG's brain... you have to routinely test your FC and then adjust the output to meet your pools needs. As the weather changes, you will have to keep adjusting the pump run time and/or output percentage to control your FC level.

Unfortunately, It is not a set and forget type of system.

Thanks for posting,

Jim R.

Thanks for the reply.

Since you addressed this question. If I left the swg% and Pump runtime the same. If the cya dropped as mentioned, would that drive the FC up if everything else stayed the same? I'm still trying to understand the Cya/FC relationship. I've heard higher cya allows the swg to make more?? But also heard too high and it won't allow the FC to work??

Gator

 

[Jimrahbe]

Gator,

The CYA has no direct effect on the SWCG or its output... What the CYA does is buffer the effect chlorine has on you, and keep the sun from burning the chlorine off too quickly.

To exaggerate a little... If the CYA was very low, you'd have to turn the SWCG up to 100% to keep enough FC in your pool, because it would get used up as fast as the SWCG could generate it. With a CYA of 80, your SWCG's output can be turned way down because the FC that the SWCG produces will not get used up so fast.

Thanks,

Jim R.