If i'm shocking my pool with bleach, can I add Borax at the same time to bring up the PH....
Thanks
Thanks
Bleach and Borax
- Thread starter Wild Duk
- Start date
PH reads false high when FC is above 10. Wait until the FC are below 10 to do any adjusting of PH levels.
I'm still trying to get whatever is eating my chlorine out.....I've dumped about 30 plus gallons of bleach i it in the last 2 days, woke up and tested this morning and was stil at FC 6 and CC 2.5 I tested the ph and it was low, 6.8, but I still need to continue shocking.....Should I wait till the shock treatment is over before raising ph....
If your FC is 6 right now, go ahead and add the borax now. Let it circulate an hour, retest, add more if necessary. When your PH is up to 7.2-7.4, then you can resume shocking.
FC 6
CC 3
CYA 25 on 6/19 but added enough stab. to bring it up to 60
TA 90
PH 6.8
Been shocking with bleach to bring up to 24 ppm last 1.5 days
CC 3
CYA 25 on 6/19 but added enough stab. to bring it up to 60
TA 90
PH 6.8
Been shocking with bleach to bring up to 24 ppm last 1.5 days
If you didn't add the Borax yet....
next time the FC drops below 10, add the Borax.
Make sure your pool is not covered, the sun will help destroy the CCs.
next time the FC drops below 10, add the Borax.
Make sure your pool is not covered, the sun will help destroy the CCs.
Thanks for the help.....So I should keep the solar cover off, keep the Shock at 24ppm, unti the CC is .5 or 0???
Then when the FC drops to below 10, raise the PH.......Would it help if I ran the fountain now, does that help raise PH?
Does this sound right???
Then when the FC drops to below 10, raise the PH.......Would it help if I ran the fountain now, does that help raise PH?
Does this sound right???
Sounds right. You can try the fountain, I don't know if it will work with your TA at that level.
Another question on shocking
I've gotten my cc down to about 1.5ppm
I'm continuing to add bleach to keep the FC at 24ppm....Do I continue to do this until I have no cc, and it can hold FC overnight????
Is this abnormal to not be able to get CC down fast.....Not sure what was in the water, but it sure seems hard to kill, just doesn't want to go away.....I have a ouotside garbage bin full of bleach containers.....
I've gotten my cc down to about 1.5ppm
I'm continuing to add bleach to keep the FC at 24ppm....Do I continue to do this until I have no cc, and it can hold FC overnight????
Is this abnormal to not be able to get CC down fast.....Not sure what was in the water, but it sure seems hard to kill, just doesn't want to go away.....I have a ouotside garbage bin full of bleach containers.....
reebok
0
Re: Another question on shocking
please keep your posts in the same thread, it helps to re-read what's going on and your history.
you are done shocking when your water is clear, cc's are .5 or less and you lose 1ppm or less fc overnight.
please keep your posts in the same thread, it helps to re-read what's going on and your history.
you are done shocking when your water is clear, cc's are .5 or less and you lose 1ppm or less fc overnight.
Re: Another question on shocking
Sorry thanks,
I thought the new question might get lost on the bottom of an older thread....
Sorry thanks,
I thought the new question might get lost on the bottom of an older thread....
reebok
0
Re: Another question on shocking
the only thing that gets lost around here is algae
haha, corny I know.
the only thing that gets lost around here is algae
haha, corny I know.
Re: Another question on shocking
There are different forms of CC. Some go away much more easily than others.
You want to maintain shock level and have plenty of direct sunlight to help break down the remaining CC.
Topic merged. JasonLion
Yes, continue adding bleach until CC is 0.5 or lower and FC holds overnight.Wild Duk said:
There are different forms of CC. Some go away much more easily than others.
You want to maintain shock level and have plenty of direct sunlight to help break down the remaining CC.
Topic merged. JasonLion
I’m new so I’m asking to learn.
Would it have been better for Wild Duk to get the pH ideal first, and then start shocking? Would that have altered the shock results?
Or Wild Duk, was the pH ideal but it changed on you during the shock process?
Would it have been better for Wild Duk to get the pH ideal first, and then start shocking? Would that have altered the shock results?
Or Wild Duk, was the pH ideal but it changed on you during the shock process?
It is best to get the PH very roughly into the correct range first and then shock. There can be a problem with shocking when PH is way off of what it is supposed to be, but there is no need to get the PH exactly right (except perhaps for baquacil conversions).
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