New Pool owner in Las Vegas

[Angelad]

Hello,
We bought a house with a pool and moved here last September. I had a really hard time figuring out how to work everything! My neighbor has an extremely large tree that loses ALL of it's leaves into my pool, which is a hassle, so my phosphates are always high. Also ph and calcium hardness are high. I recently had a bit of yellow algae and shocked the pool for the first time as per the advice of the pool supply store. I took the advice on this website and bought a Taylor K-2006 test kit and now I just need to learn how to use it! Thank you in advance for any help that I will receive from this website!

 

[Jimrahbe]

A,

Welcome to TFP... A Great resource for all pool owners who "love" their next door neighbor...

Well... get busy and learn how to use it.. The sooner you do the better for you.

You will notice that your test kit does not measure phosphates. The reason for this is simple, they don't matter to anyone but people at the pool store that want to sell you something...

Please don't take anything the pool store has told you as the truth until you have tested it against your own test kit.

The sooner you post test results, the sooner we can help...

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[Texas Splash]

Let's see those test numbers! And welcome to TFP!

 

[Angelad]

Ok. I din't even realize that you were willing to help me as I got the numbers, Wow! I am so excited and thankful! Ok. My FC is 15 and SS is 1. I am suspecting that the man at the pool store had me to put in too much shock. He had me to use 4 lbs and that was on the 3rd. He told me. it would drop to a safe level by the next day. Ph was reading at the highest level 8.0. It took 7 drops to bring it down to between 7.2-7.4 level. Then I added one half gallon of muriatic acid to the pool. What next?

 

[Jimrahbe]

A,

Some of these tests are related, so it is important that you report all of them.. And because it helps some of us with old eyes, please report them like this...

FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Salt -- I see you have an IC40 SWCG so we need to know your salt level

Was SS a typo for CC???

Since you say you have some algae... you need to read this just to get an idea of what I suspect you will have to do once we get your new readings.. https://www.troublefreepool.com/content/125-slam-shock-level-and-maintain-shockingl

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[Angelad]

Yes, sorry. SS was a typo for cc! lol.
FC- 15
CC-1
PH-7.8
TA-200ppm??
CH-800
CYA- I don't really know how to read this level, because it is cloudy to the point where I cannot see the dot when looking from the top; however the line is well below the first mark of 100. the level is actually just barely past the first fill line.
Salt- I don't guess I have the required bottle or reagents to test salt. The last time had it checked at the pool store, they said it was 3700.

When I first discovered the algae, they told me not to shock the pool but to bring my phosphates down and then the chlorine would go up and kill the algae. When that didn't work, I was told to shock it.

 

[Texas Splash]

It sounds as though your pool is having an algae explosion. Your CC is elevated and you have a high FC (free chlorine) to compensate for what appears to be a very high CYA level - probably form lots of pool store advise and products. We need to confirm CYA before anything else. Try this:

CYA Testing:
Proper lighting is critical for the CYA test, so you want to test for CYA outside on a bright sunny day. Taylor recommends standing outside with your back to the sun and the view tube in the shade of your body. Use the mixing bottle to combine/gently mix the required amounts of pool water and R-0013 reagent, let sit for 30 seconds, then gently mix again. Then, while holding the skinny tube with the black dot at waist level, begin squirting the mixed solution into the skinny tube. Watch the black dot until it completely disappears. Once it disappears, record the CYA reading. After the first test, you can pour the mixed solution from the skinny view tube back to the mixing bottle, shake, and do the same test a second, third, or fourth time to instill consistency in your technique, become more comfortable with the testing, and validate the CYA reading.

If that dot is still disappearing really fast, your CYA is probably well over 100. If so, do this:

CYA Dilution Testing:
Add pool water to bottom of sticker.
Add tap water to top of sticker.
Shake.
Pour out half so mixture is to bottom of sticker.
Add reagent to top of sticker.
Shake.
Test outside with back to sun and tube at waist level.
Pour back and forth a few times to see if you get the same result.
Double the result.

Let us know the results of either/both attempts and we'll go from there.

 

[Angelad]

I repeated it and it is still well below the 100 mark on the tube. I am trying to do the CYA dilution testing, but I didn't know what you mean when you say, "the bottom of sticker, the top of sticker.." Are you referring to the small bottle(part #9191) If so, it simply has a line for 7 nils and one for 14mls. FYI, the pool store tested it to be 70 before I shocked it.

 

[Texas Splash]

Yes, for a K-2006 it's the 7 & 14 marks. The basic principle is to split the initial sample with more tap water. That way you can get a more accurate reading on the viewing tube scale. After that, multiply by 2.

 

[Texas Splash]

I hope my comments for dilution testing made sense. Here is a clip form the TFP instructions in case it helps:

If your CYA level is 90 or higher, repeat the test adjusting the procedure as follows:
Fill the mixing bottle to the lower mark with pool water.
Continue filling the mixing bottle to the upper mark with tap water.
Shake briefly to mix.
Pour off half of the contents of the mixing bottle, so it is again filled to the lower mark.
Continue the test normally from step 3, but multiply the final result by two.

Here's the parts from Step 3 and on:

Continue filling to the upper mark with R-0013. The upper mark may be labeled as 14 ml, or not labeled, or there may not be a mark and you fill to the base of the neck of the bottle.
Cap and then shake the mixing bottle for 30 seconds.
Stand outdoors with your back to the sun and hold the view tube at about waist level. If sunlight is not available, find the brightest artificial light you can.
Looking down into the view tube, slowly pour the mixture from the mixing bottle into the view tube.
Continue pouring until all traces of the black dot at the bottom of the view tube completely disappear, even after you stare at it for several seconds, or you fill the view tube.
Reading the result:
If the view tube is completely full, and you can still see the black dot clearly, your CYA level is zero.
If the view tube is completely full and the black dot is only partially obscured, your CYA level is above zero but lower than the lowest level your test kit can measure (20 or 30 ppm).
If the tube is not completely full, look at the scale on the side of the view tube. The labeled mark closest to the liquid level indicates your CYA level.

 

[Angelad]

ok. I did that and I think it was at about 90, so that means 180? Also I am wondering if I need to make sure the CC was correct. I remember not being sure about the color. There are so many tests! My son is loving it! I , on the other hand, just want to get it right.

 

[Texas Splash]

Yes! You got it. We'll make a chemist out of you and your son before you know it. Okay, well, here's the scoop .... There are two things that can only be lowered by exchanging water, and you have both of them - High CYA and CH. The CYA is high from previous use of chlorine tabs/bags of shock, and the calcium is probably from the lovely Vegas valley. I know, I drank plenty of it from a hose growing up.

The best and #1 thing to do now is exchange water. Can you do that? I'd say about 60-70% at least, but never completely. We need your CYA lowered to around 50 or so (give or take), but definitely under 80. Your filter doesn't look like it has a multiport valve for backwashing, so I'm not sure if your pool was plumbed with any way to remove water. If not, you'll need to see about borrowing or renting a small sump pump to change-out some water. By exchanging at least 60-70% of the water, your CYA will be more manageable for chlorine treatment. The CYA will not go up again as long as you use just regular bleach as we advise. I can't help with the hard water unless you have a water softener and want to use it off & on to help, but probably not all at once.

Does that all make sense? Lowering the CYA will be key in preparation for doing the "SLAM" to remove the algae.

 

[Angelad]

Yes, but does it matter if my CC was actually 1? I feel like I may have messed up on that. Now, the guy at the pool store told me that everyone here has CH here and I should not worry about it. I have an automatic fill to my pool and I don't know anything about that. I do have a water softener and also an RO under the sink. I have a spigot from the water softener in the front. I am trying to have a birthday pool party on Saturday. What are the chances of that?

 

[Texas Splash]

No need to worry about the CC right now. We know you have an algae issue. As for the hard water, even moderately hard water can be managed by adjusting other items (pH & TA) lower to compensate. Even at 800. The real problem is the CYA. Being close to 200 means the Free Chlorine (FC) needs to be exceptionally high to keep-up. Virtually impossible. Now if you can exchange water right away, then you can begin the SLAM with a new CYA level. The SLAM probably won't be over by Saturday, but we can advise you on lowering the FC enough Friday or so to allow swimmers to still have fun. Again, the water may still be a bit cloudy, but we can swim during a SLAM. It's your call. If the water isn't exceptionally bad right now and you want to focus on the party, just use regular bleach for now (remove any tabs) and start the SLAM after the party. It's your call really. We'll be here to assist either way. Just please stay out of the pool store unless you are buying muriatic acid or a pool tool/toy. They're the ones who got you in this mess. Let us know what you want to do.

 

[Angelad]

I have rarely used tabs because I have a salt cell. I did in the beginning when my pool guy told me the salt cell wasn't working. Come to find out it was working and he was also using tabs and the chlorine was around 10! The water is perfectly clear. I only had a small amount of algae spots on the shade side of my pool and on the sides of the steps, but they are all gone now. We haven't been in it in. awhile and my family asks me everyday if we can swim. I think we may wait until after Saturday to replace water. Mostly because we are clueless! I am guessing you pump it out to the street? Then would we have to have the pump off completely as well as the automatic fill thing? I just remembered that the family that lived here before us used tabs because I guess they thought the salt cell wasn't working. Also the pool guy indicated that everytime they called him the water was really messed up.

 

[Texas Splash]

No worries. After Saturday will work for us. Until then, I'd add one gallon of regular (plain) laundry bleach each day is all. You can monitor the FC level with your K-2006. When you test, use the following method to test FC:

10ML water sample with one heaping scoop of R-0870 powder then mix. Count drops until clear, then divide by 2. Example: 20 drops = FC of 10.

With your CYA so high, an FC of 10-12 won't hurt at all. Just don't let it drop too much or you'll see the algae come back.

After the party, let us know when you're ready to start the SLAM (link below) and we'll help. After the SLAM is complete, we'll also show you how to adjust for a high TA and CH.

Have a good work week and enjoy the party Saturday.

 

[Angelad]

So it's ok to swim in with that level of chlorine? I try to stay away from chemicals as much as possible, lol. I will ask around for a sump pump and if I can get my hands on one, we may try to do it before the weekend. I'll let you know. So what about the salt cell? Am I adding the bleach to keep it at a particular level or just add one gallon per day no matter what? I am so sorry I have so many questions.

 

[Texas Splash]

When you actually start the SLAM process, you'll turn down (or off) the SWG completely. They are not designed to maintain the elevated FC level you'll need during the SLAM. That's another reason bleach is so great to use - cheap, easy, and accurate to maintain a SLAM FC level. For now, it's okay to let it run like normal and use a little bleach to augment it if you want. You're in an awkward spot until you are ready to "SLAM" the pool.

Can you swim in it? Sure, if it's adjusted properly. If you take a look at the Chlorine/CYA Chart link below in my sig, you'll see two charts. For the SLAM, it doesn't matter which chart we use, what's important will be the actual CYA when you end-up with after the water change. For example, if your new CYA ended-up being 60, then your SLAM "FC" level would be "24". It is safe to swim up to that level. If you go over 24, we don't advise being in the water. Now while it is safe to swim, you may notice a stronger chlorine smell, and you may not want to wear your finest swimwear just in case they are more sensitive to chlorine, but it is safe. But just for Saturday, you can always let the FC drop down if you're concerned about anything. So really, it all depends on when you feel is a good time to start the SLAM process. It's a process that could take several days, not a 1-2 day thing, so it's up to you.

 

[Angelad]

Thank you very much for your help. I will let you know when we are ready. You suggested that I put in a gallon of bleach everyday until then. I wanted to ask if you liquid chlorine is the same. I bought two gallons at Lowes thinking I was going to use that to shock it and then the pool store guy told me to never use that because it wasn't near strong enough and it was pointless. I think I am seeing a different line of thinking here? I know that liquid bleach is preferable but is it only due to the cost factor vs. liquid chlorine? I have never used it before and I was planning to return it. If it is ok to use it, do I use the same amount? Also, would it be helpful to upload any pictures? Thank you.

 

[Richard320]

Thank you very much for your help. I will let you know when we are ready. You suggested that I put in a gallon of bleach everyday until then. I wanted to ask if you liquid chlorine is the same. I bought two gallons at Lowes thinking I was going to use that to shock it and then the pool store guy told me to never use that because it wasn't near strong enough and it was pointless. I think I am seeing a different line of thinking here? I know that liquid bleach is preferable but is it only due to the cost factor vs. liquid chlorine? I have never used it before and I was planning to return it. If it is ok to use it, do I use the same amount? Also, would it be helpful to upload any pictures? Thank you.

It's fine.

Whether they call it pool chlorinating liquid or liquid pool shock or bleach doesn't matter. It's all the same stuff, just different strengths. We just call it all bleach for simplicity. The pool guy will also try to tell you that his alkalinity increaser is better than baking soda, despite the fact that it's all the same stuff. There's no money in it for him if you buy your stuff somewhere else.