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Thread: Concrete Sealer

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    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Kennedyville, MD
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    45

    Concrete Sealer

    had my in-ground pool put in last year. i did not seal the exposed aggragate concrete last year, but thinking about it this year. LOTS of products out there. who has had success/failure with certain products?

    in the end is it really worth the effort? it seems you need to re-seal every year or two once you do it- some peels and cracks, that would be awful. it would help the appeal, since it would give it a "wet look" and highlight the stones more. overall, our water doesnt stay on the concrete long, there is plenty of slope to the perimeter drains. i am not convinced its required to have lasting concrete.

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    Mod Squad JohnT's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    SW Indiana
    Posts
    9,334

    Re: Concrete Sealer

    I use Eagle brand from Lowes. I've used others and they worked as well.

    My process after doing it several times is:

    Pressure wash the deck if there is any old sealer on it. You don't have to get it off, you just want anything that is loose to be removed.
    Etch the concrete with muriatic acid in water at 4:1 water to MA. This is not optional if you want a long-lasting coat.
    Pressure wash lightly again
    Wait on the deck to dry well. Don't try to seal when it is hot or when it will be hot before the sealer dries. Bubbles will form and they will crack.
    Do the edges and any place the roller won't fit with a brush
    Coat with the recommended roller (I think 3/8 nap, but it says on the can)
    Let first coat dry and recoat.

    If you get back to it soon enough you can just lightly pressure wash and add a coat in succeeding years.

    I use the brown tinted sealer and it looks great. You might need to switch to clear if you go to do it again next year if significant sealer is left.

    Bottom line is it is a pain but it looks much better sealed.

    If you have safety cover anchors in the deck, leave them in and pull them as you seal the area and drop them in a can of the thinner recommended for the sealer.
    TFP Moderator
    20K Gallon 20X36 Vinyl Inground
    Hayward S244T Sand Filter with 1HP Whisperflo Pump. Liquidator C-201 and Solar Heat

  3. Back To Top    #3

    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    East Central MS
    Posts
    117

    Re: Concrete Sealer

    To get the wet look you need to use a chemical-based sealer and they can require recoating every year or two and they do not allow the material to breathe as they sit on the surface.

    The silane/siloxane sealers penetrate into the concrete and once dry do not change the look of it. The better brands have a working life of 7-10 years, are water-based, and allow the material to breathe (like Gore-Tex). Personally, I like the Prosoco products. Big box stores typically don't sell them. They are sold at brickyards, etc. Around a pool I would use Saltguard WB.

    Saltguard WB

    The reason to seal concrete is because concrete is alkaline and rainwater is acidic, so with every rain a little of the concrete essentially washes away. Also around a pool, whether or not you use a SWG, you can have salt attack. Personally I think it is a good idea and will extend the life and beauty of any masonry material, and for what things cost today, I think it's worth it.

    Reference: https://www.concretenetwork.com/prod...omparison.html
    34K gal, 20'x40' IGP (backfilled and reinforced concrete block walls with concrete floor built mid-1970's; renovated 2017), PebbleSheen Arctic White plaster finish, Lotus Prisma Marine 1x2 glass waterline tiles, Indiana limestone coping, 1.5hp Hayward pump, Pentair Triton II TR100 sand filter, Pentair Intellibrite 5g color LED 120v Pool Light, Dolphin Supreme M400 robot, Stenner 45M1 pump, Pentair 320 chlorinator (to raise CYA only)

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