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Thread: First test with TF-100

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    First test with TF-100

    I did my first test with the TF-100 on my new AGP tonight. The following are the results: CL-5, Ph-7.2, FC-7ppm, CC-0.5, TC-7.5, TA-170, and CYA-40. I also got the Aqua Chek salt test strips and got a reading of 2860. The pool was filled on Tuesday. Wednesday I added 128oz of Pool Essentials Chlorinating Liquid which I believe is 10% chlorine, roughly 3 lb of Clorox pool stabilizer, and (9) 40lb bags of Clorox pool salt. I brushed the bottom of the pool until there was no visible salt on the bottom. Then I ran the pump on high speed for 6 hours and then switched it to low and continued to run it for 20 more hours. When I got home from work on Thursday I turned on the Intex SWCG and switched the pump back to high. I took the water sample roughly 10 min after I turned on the SWCG.

    I have a question about doing the TA test. When adding the R-009 do you count the drops until it just starts to turn red/pink or until it is dark red?

    What is my next step for turning this new pool into a trouble free pool? Any advice will be greatly appreciated, this is my first pool and have zero experience with them other than swimming in them.
    24'x52" above ground pool partly buried, Waterway 150 sq.ft. Cartridge Filter System, Waterway 1.5hp 2 Speed Pump, Intex SWG with O3 Generator.

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    Mod Squad Texas Splash's Avatar
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    Re: First test with TF-100

    Hello! Lets address all of your tests and what we should see:
    FC - 7 (?): I think that's what you meant right? So 7 is good for now as you try to get your SWG to keep-up with FC production. While on bleach, keep it elevated to about 7 like that. Once the SWG takes over, and you get the CYA to the right level (70), you should be able to let the FC fall to about 5-ish.
    CC - 0.5: That's as high as we want to see it. If you ever see it creep over that, start looking closely at the water and FC level and be prepared in case you have to SLAM.
    CYA - 40: Okay, so for a SWG pool we know 70 is a recommended minimum. Watch closely. If you didn't add enough stabilizer at first, you may need to add some more.
    PH - 7.2: a little low but should increase on its own. Just watch to ensure it doesn't drop any further. Ideal would be in the mid-7s.
    TA - 170: a bit elevated which will probably allow pH to rise a little faster. Once the 5 drops of 0008 (green) are added, add/count R-0009 until it turns Barbie pink.
    CH - Not listed: Okay for now. Low CH is N/A for vinyl anyways. But watch to ensure it doesn't get too high.

    That should help get you going. In new water, watch pH and FC everyday. Usually FC makes the fastest changes (drops). Always have a gallon of bleach ready just in case. If you have any other questions, just let us know.
    Pat (a.k.a. Texas Splash) ~ My Pool: Viking Fiberglass; 17,888 Gal; Waterway Supreme 2-sp/2-hp pump; Hayward Ctg filter; TF-100 w/ Speed Stir
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    Richard320's Avatar
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    Re: First test with TF-100

    That's a brand new test kit, and it seems like this year an awful lot of people have static electricity buildup on the tip of the R-009 TA reagent. It makes the drops smaller so you use more, which gives a falsely high reading. I'd advise wiping the tip off with a damp paper towel before the next TA test and see if that helps.

    For testing, you keep adding drops until the last one makes no change, then deduct it. So maybe you're doing the TA test and at 7 drops it starts to look more grey than green. At 8 it gets a faint pinkish tint. aAt 9, it goes bright pink. Drop 10 makes no difference. Deduct it. 9 drops. TA is 90.
    16K freeform gunite with spa; Pentair 4000 DE filter; Century Whisperflow 1 HP; Pentair Minimax heater.
    Troublefree does not mean Maintenancefree. It's like brushing your teeth: You can spend a couple minutes a day and pennies a week or go to the dentist once a year and spend several thousand dollars.
    A pool is like a pet - you have to feed it every day, even the days you don't want to play with it!

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    Re: First test with TF-100

    Thanks for the tips on the TA test. I have about 1 lb of stabilizer left, should I go ahead and add it?
    24'x52" above ground pool partly buried, Waterway 150 sq.ft. Cartridge Filter System, Waterway 1.5hp 2 Speed Pump, Intex SWG with O3 Generator.

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    Richard320's Avatar
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    Re: First test with TF-100

    Quote Originally Posted by Phuzz View Post
    Thanks for the tips on the TA test. I have about 1 lb of stabilizer left, should I go ahead and add it?
    Tap water has no CYA in it, and I see poolmath calling for 4 lbs of CYA to get to 40. If you only added 3 and are already at 40, something doesn't compute. Your pool is smaller than you think, someone else added dichlor or trichlor, or you did the test wrong. That test requires really bright light. Full sun. Indoors may make the dot disappear sooner than it should giving a falsely high reading. Be sure of everything before you add more and possibly overdose on CYA. You don't want to start replacing water so soon.
    16K freeform gunite with spa; Pentair 4000 DE filter; Century Whisperflow 1 HP; Pentair Minimax heater.
    Troublefree does not mean Maintenancefree. It's like brushing your teeth: You can spend a couple minutes a day and pennies a week or go to the dentist once a year and spend several thousand dollars.
    A pool is like a pet - you have to feed it every day, even the days you don't want to play with it!

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    Re: First test with TF-100

    I redid the CYA test. At 50 I can definitely still see the black dot at 40 it is gone. I'm guestimating at the 3 lbs, I got a 4 lb bottle and put most of it in the pool. It is possible that the pool installer put some chemicals in it. I wasn't home when they finished and started filling, but they didn't mention it. I'll wait until tomorrow and check the CYA again before I do anything else.
    24'x52" above ground pool partly buried, Waterway 150 sq.ft. Cartridge Filter System, Waterway 1.5hp 2 Speed Pump, Intex SWG with O3 Generator.

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