CYA down to 300!

[johnhugo]

I am new to pools and just bought a house with one. I had the water tested at 4 local pool stores. Results for CYA were between 90 and 400 depending on who you believe. I ordered a kit (Taylor 2006) and 400 was about right. I did a partial drain, but still way to high to measure with the test kit (dot disappears after 1/4" of test solution added). Results for FC were between 4 and 16. I think 16 was right. After two weeks of no SWG (turned it off, actually I just discovered it is shot so I am getting a new one) the FC is now about 10. Salt is now about 4,000. pH and alkalinity are good. Ca is now 1,200.

The pool seems perfectly fine. Very clear. After being here a couple of weeks I think the pool has been like this for years. They did not do anything except add chlorine tablets, but is seems to work.

Can I limp along this summer and drain the pool this winter? Getting too hot to drain it now. I could do a bunch of partial drains, but I am afraid of messing up the chemistry even more.

Thoughts?, Ideas?, Charms and potions?

Thanks

 

[Richard320]

If CYA is 300, minimum FC for a SWG is 14, according to poolmath.

Since the pH test is inaccurate above 10 FC, you will never ever know what your real pH is. Too low, expect burning eyes and irritated skin, crumbling plaster, and corrosion inside your heater. Too high, then expect burning eyes and irritated skin and grow-your-own sandpaper on the walls that will give you instant roadrash if you graze it with a knee or elbow.

If you somehow get algae, you'll have to drain anyway, because there isn't a test kit made that can measure the chlorine levels you'd need.

Through evaporation and refills, your CH is also going to get worse and worse. The grow-your own sandpaper scenario is almost a given.

 

[woodyp]

Thoughts?, Ideas?, Charms and potions?

Only solution is a series of partial drains other than reverse osmosis if available. Why limp when you can run! If that puppy gets algae you're gonna be in for a ride. Gonna be a lot of uneccesary wear and tear on that salt cell having to maintain FC that high.

 

[johnhugo]

If I use a meter can I measure pH?

If CYA is 300, minimum FC for a SWG is 14, according to poolmath.

Since the pH test is inaccurate above 10 FC, you will never ever know what your real pH is. Too low, expect burning eyes and irritated skin, crumbling plaster, and corrosion inside your heater. Too high, then expect burning eyes and irritated skin and grow-your-own sandpaper on the walls that will give you instant roadrash if you graze it with a knee or elbow.

If you somehow get algae, you'll have to drain anyway, because there isn't a test kit made that can measure the chlorine levels you'd need.

Through evaporation and refills, your CH is also going to get worse and worse. The grow-your own sandpaper scenario is almost a given.

- - - Updated - - -

I was thinking of adding bleach so I do not have to run the salt sell so high. Will that work?

Only solution is a series of partial drains other than reverse osmosis if available. Why limp when you can run! If that puppy gets algae you're gonna be in for a ride. Gonna be a lot of uneccesary wear and tear on that salt cell having to maintain FC that high.

 

[pabeader]

As to the bleach question. Yes, in fact, a number of us do just that rather than fiddle with the SWG% for things like pool parties and such.

 

[jblizzle]

With the very high cya I'm not sure that the swg would actually have to work any harder to maintain the high FC levels.

 

[johnhugo]

Interesting. That does make sense.

With the very high cya I'm not sure that the swg would actually have to work any harder to maintain the high FC levels.

 

[johnhugo]

Should I use an algaecide to be safe? If so, any particular type? I was going to put borate in once I get the CYA under control or would that be effective now?

If CYA is 300, minimum FC for a SWG is 14, according to poolmath.

Since the pH test is inaccurate above 10 FC, you will never ever know what your real pH is. Too low, expect burning eyes and irritated skin, crumbling plaster, and corrosion inside your heater. Too high, then expect burning eyes and irritated skin and grow-your-own sandpaper on the walls that will give you instant roadrash if you graze it with a knee or elbow.

If you somehow get algae, you'll have to drain anyway, because there isn't a test kit made that can measure the chlorine levels you'd need.

Through evaporation and refills, your CH is also going to get worse and worse. The grow-your own sandpaper scenario is almost a given.

 

[Richard320]

Sorry, I have zero experience with borates, algaecides, or digital pH meters.

 

[duraleigh]

Even if you manage to get by for a while, when would you plan on bringing the pool under control?

All your call, but it sounds like you're attempting too many work-arounds. I would not encourage it.

 

[johnhugo]

Thanks. I am going to try several partial drains and see how far I can get.

Even if you manage to get by for a while, when would you plan on bringing the pool under control?

All your call, but it sounds like you're attempting too many work-arounds. I would not encourage it.

 

[Flying Tivo]

I would just go for it and drain 80%, your electric cost alone on partial drains and running your pump 24/7 if you get algae is just not worth it IMHO.

Felipe

 

[duraleigh]

Flying Tivo,

There is no extra electric cost in doing partial drains. There is no increased risk of algae, either.

 

[Flying Tivo]

Flying Tivo,

There is no extra electric cost in doing partial drains. There is no increased risk of algae, either.

Down here electric bills are high and more so in the summer, and water is so cheap that i would do that, but i did not take into account for his location. I did not mean increased risk of algae, but that if he gets algae then running the pumps for slam was going to impact the electric bill.

Felipe

 

[johnhugo]

I pumped all night with a small pump and still pumping. Pumping at one end and recharging at the other end. Adding a dash of bleach every few hours. I just don't know my pool well enough to be more aggressive at this point. Hopefully I will get my chemistry levels low enough that I can actually measure them. My pH meter should arrive today. I will verify it works well in the presence of chlorine and use it for pH since I am keeping chlorine high for the moment.

Thanks

 

[pabeader]

I just read of another member having success with the 'tarp method'. You lay a large tarp over the surface of the pool and then drain from under it while filling above. As long as the tarp is big enough you can do a pretty decent job this way. There have been a number of members that show success with this method.

 

[johnhugo]

Never thought of that. I am draining from the low point and filling on top at the shallow end. I figure the salt water will stay low and the fresh water will float so I should get minimal mixing.

I just read of another member having success with the 'tarp method'. You lay a large tarp over the surface of the pool and then drain from under it while filling above. As long as the tarp is big enough you can do a pretty decent job this way. There have been a number of members that show success with this method.