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Thread: No clapper valve and questions on current plumbing

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    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Chino Hills, Ca
    Posts
    19

    No clapper valve and questions on current plumbing

    A couple years ago my previous pool man switched out either my current pump or filter (cant remember which one at the time) and when he did he removed a clapper valve and never installed a new one. After researching on this site, that is a bad thing right? I notice my spa drains down when the pump shuts off and upon starting there is a violent flow of water into the spa with lots of bubbles in the pool return until the spa starts flowing over.


    I should install a valve to prevent backflow right?


    Hopefully it can been seen as this is the only picture I have of the plumbing when we first moved in:


    Here is my current set up:









    Are there any other valves, shut offs, etc I need to install?



    And what are these?





    19,000 gallon in ground plaster pool with overflowing spa, Crystal Water Aqua Clean DE Filter (48sq/ft), Pentair WhisperFlow Pump, 8 gallon liquidator w/ 3/8" upgrade, Zodiac G3 Barracuda, TF-100 test kit

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    Richard320's Avatar
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    Jan 2010
    Location
    San Dimas, CA (LA County)
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    20,296

    Re: No clapper valve and questions on current plumbing

    It sounds like you need a check valve, yes. I don't see any valving to control the flow to/from the spa and pool. I have two 3-way valves. I can draw from either pool or spa and return to either one or set a balance in between. Normally, I only draw from pool and return about 80-20 pool-spa. When I just want to soak in the spa, I set it spa-spa and then it heats up fast and doesn't waste money heating the whole pool. Something to consider.

    Picture 4 is a junction box. Inside, the wiring from your light is connected to the wiring to the switch.
    Picture 5 is the air intake for the spa jets. If you cover that sawn-out portion, you'll see fewer bubbles. I usually have mine blocked, so it reduces the aeration and slows pH rise. Plus it doesn't introduce cold air to the hot water when it's in spa mode. I'm more interested in the hot water pounding my back than I am in a bunch of bubbles when I soak. It's up to you. A plastic bag and a rubber band and it's done. Maybe something sturdier, like a slit-open bottle or can.
    16K freeform gunite with spa; Pentair 4000 DE filter; Century Whisperflow 1 HP; Pentair Minimax heater.
    Troublefree does not mean Maintenancefree. It's like brushing your teeth: You can spend a couple minutes a day and pennies a week or go to the dentist once a year and spend several thousand dollars.
    A pool is like a pet - you have to feed it every day, even the days you don't want to play with it!

  3. Back To Top    #3

    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Chino Hills, Ca
    Posts
    19

    Re: No clapper valve and questions on current plumbing

    Quote Originally Posted by Richard320 View Post
    It sounds like you need a check valve, yes. I don't see any valving to control the flow to/from the spa and pool. I have two 3-way valves. I can draw from either pool or spa and return to either one or set a balance in between. Normally, I only draw from pool and return about 80-20 pool-spa. When I just want to soak in the spa, I set it spa-spa and then it heats up fast and doesn't waste money heating the whole pool. Something to consider.

    Picture 4 is a junction box. Inside, the wiring from your light is connected to the wiring to the switch.
    Picture 5 is the air intake for the spa jets. If you cover that sawn-out portion, you'll see fewer bubbles. I usually have mine blocked, so it reduces the aeration and slows pH rise. Plus it doesn't introduce cold air to the hot water when it's in spa mode. I'm more interested in the hot water pounding my back than I am in a bunch of bubbles when I soak. It's up to you. A plastic bag and a rubber band and it's done. Maybe something sturdier, like a slit-open bottle or can.
    Thanks for the help.

    Any recommendations on a brand or model of check valve to install? And when I do install a check valve, does it matter if the valve runs vertical or horizontal (my old one ran vertical)?

    I do have two 3 way valves which I posted questions on in another thread I have running right now. They are under my deck a couple feet from the spa.
    19,000 gallon in ground plaster pool with overflowing spa, Crystal Water Aqua Clean DE Filter (48sq/ft), Pentair WhisperFlow Pump, 8 gallon liquidator w/ 3/8" upgrade, Zodiac G3 Barracuda, TF-100 test kit

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