After 12 lbs shock and 3 gallons liquid chlorine the green swamp is getting worse!

[cgcss1]

I do not know what I am doing wrong with getting the pool clear. I took a sample to Leslies Pool and they said the chemical levels look good except the chlorine levels were high and to just brush and put to recirculate and would clear up after about a week. Well it started getting a little better and then took a nose dive to green acres. I constantly brush, robot on the bottom, and still no luck. I do notice that the filter seems to need to be backwashed after a few hours due to high pressure and then backwashed and all is fine until a few hours more. Because of all the chlorine I have thrown in there, it smells very strong coming from the water but the water is getting more and more green by the days. I am at my wits end and do not know what to do other than hire a professional to figure out what to do. Can someone please help point me in the right direction of what to do and what may be going on? Thanks for any input one can give a newbie pool owner. By the way it is a 16x32 in-ground about 36000 gallons.

 

[Griswald]

Unless your pool averages 10 feet deep, there's no way a 16 x 32 pool can hold 36000 gallons of water. Mine holds 17000 gallons.

Oh, and get a test kit, a real one like the TF100 so you don't just pour chemicals into your pool without knowing what it is going to do.

This website is for those that want to be self sufficient with their pools.

 

[cgcss1]

I'm sorry made a mistake, the deep end is 8.6' shallow end is 4' with the incline starting at about 8' out so it equates to roughly 23500 gallons according to 5 pool volume calculators. I sincerely hope the remark 'This website is for those that want to be self sufficient with their pools.' was not a smart remark as if in I did not know that because that is why I joined the site hoping to become just that and looking for friendly advice from some good folks who are not so easily irritated from new pool owners who do not have a clue but want to learn from their mistakes and work at becoming more self sufficient at pool maintenance and ownership. That is why I joined this site hoping to figure out what is going on and take matters into my own hands and meet some new friends along the way. I have always relied on Leslie for my readings but am now learning that they might not necessarily know the best course of action and this is all part of being a new pool owner like we all once were right?

 

[Texas Splash]

Hello and welcome to TFP! This is probably the #1 issue right now:

Oh, and get a test kit, a real one like the TF100 so you don't just pour chemicals into your pool without knowing what it is going to do.

I bought the TF-100 a few years back when I had my first "green" experience, and it's never been green like that again. Also, stay away from the pool store and don't add anything else to the water at this point other than perhaps 1 gallon of regular bleach each evening. Yep, regular old (plain) bleach - nothing else.

Next we need to see a full set of test results from your own "recommended" test kit (TF-100 link below). Since you have algae, you will go through reagents. I would suggest the XL Option and the magnetic speed stir. Makes things so much easier. We can help you, we (you) just need accurate testing. Unfortunately, the pool store is in it for the $$$$.

Thanks for finding us, and we'll do all we can to get your pool clear again.

Oh ~ You can also start reading the SLAM page (link below) and bookmark the other links you see below in my sig. You'll use them often.

 

[Jimrahbe]

cg,

Welcome to TFP.. A Great resource for all pool owners thinking of doing their own maintenance.

I think that Criswald could have phrased his comment a little better, but the gist of what was said is true. This website is dedicated to providing the information needed for you, or anyone else, to be able to take over the maintenance of their pools.

I suggest that you read a couple of links and decide if this site is for you.

https://www.troublefreepool.com/content/122-what-is-tfpc-bbb

You can also use the "Pool School" link at the top of this page for more info...

Unfortunately, there is no one here that can look into your pool via the internet and tell you what the problem is. Just like going to the doctor with a broken arm, he is not going to guess that it is broken, he is going to take an X-Ray.
In place of an X-Ray, we need test data from your pool water. To do that you need an accurate water test kit. Either the TF-100 or the Taylor K-206C.

Once you get the test kit and have tested the water, we can then provide an accurate diagnoses of the problem with your pool.

I suspect that you have been using 3" chlorine pucks to chlorinate your pool. Plus, I also suspect that you have been adding bags of "shock" on a weekly basis. The problems you are having are exactly why we do not recommend the use of pucks.

So, look around the site and read all you can and let us know when you decide to get your test kit. The reason we only use results from these two kits, is so that we can compare apples to apples. We have no faith in the accuracy of pool store tests nor "guess" strips.

Thanks for posting,

Jim R.

 

[Richard320]

Welcome!

The short answer to what you're doing wrong is that you're working blind. You don't know what the free chlorine level is, or the combined chloramine level is, or what the cyanuric acid level is. That smell, by the way, is combined chloramines. The only way to know is you have enough chlorine is by testing it. And the only way to know how much is enough is by knowing the CYA level, also from testing. With a proper test kit -- and you'll probably have to order one because hardly any pool stores stock the good one -- and the information on this site, you can clear that water until it sparkles like you never thought possible. I mean toss a quarter in the deep end and call heads or tails from the deck clear. And it will stay that way all season long. Crystal clear, no smell, no skin or eye irritation.

The starting point is a test kit. Like I said, without it, you're working blind. It's like trying to paint something wearing a blindfold. You'll get paint on the canvas, but you won;t like the finished product and all you'll have accomplished is to waste paint and ruin a canvas. I use a TF100. I;d recommend you buy the XL option so you don't run out of reagents. It is expensive, but it will get you through this season and probably into next. The refills are a lot cheaper than the whole kit, next year. It's an investment. It will repay you with one trip to the pool store not made.

And so you know, your filter is working just as it's supposed to. There's a lot of algae in the water so it loads up fast. As you get the pool cleaner, the intervals will go longer and longer between backwashing.

 

[cgcss1]

Thank you for the quick replies thus far, much appreciated! I currently have a Taylor K-2005 test kit, will that suffice for now while I order the TF100? I will get readings and post them asap

 

[cgcss1]

Here are the test results, don't think it looks all that great.....

Bromine = 0
FC = 0
TC = 2
CC = 2
PH = 7.8
Alkalinity = 70
Calcium Hardness = 170
CYA = 35

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It's strange because the chlorine levels seem extremely low although that is all you smell is a very strong chlorine odor coming from the water when walking near the pool

 

[Texas Splash]

Good morning! The K-2005 alone is not able to test the FC the way you need it to. For that, you need the FAS-DPD test portion and it will essentially convert your K-2005 to a K-2006. Your initial results though, along with the initial description, do confirm algae. You need to "SLAM" your pool as outlined on the SLAM page (link below), but you need that FAS-DPD portion to do it. The strong chlorine odors you are smelling are probably from the elevated CC burning (oxidizing) off from the sun, not actually free chlorine.

For now, I'd order at least the FAS-DPD if you don't order an entire TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C, Until that arrives, simply add 1 gallon of bleach to the water each day. Nothing else. Once your products arrive, we can help you through the SLAM. Hope that helps. Have a nice day.

 

[cgcss1]

I guess what has be baffled is that I just added 2 gallons of liquid chlorine contains 10% of sodium hypochlorite yesterday and left it circulating all night and at present. I was expecting a somewhat better change to water clarity to know at least it is doing something but the water remains green this morning even greener possibly. Wouldn't you think that it should have made even the slightest of difference? I added a gallon of regular ole bleach 2 days before that and it made absolutely no difference either. I will order the FAS-DPD as well.[FONT=arial, sans-serif] [/FONT]

 

[Texas Splash]

In a pool your size, 2 gallons of bleach might increase FC to about an FC 7. While that may seem like a lot, a normal pools loses 2-4 ppm on a good day (clear water). You have algae, so that FC is going to disappear very fast. In the early part of a SLAM, FC will dissipate fast, no question. You're stuck right now without any way to test and maintain an FC of "16" which is your SLAM FC level based on the CYA of 40 (rounded up). So until you get the FAS-DPD portion, adding a gallon a day is only an effort to try and minimize more algae growth. Try not to be discouraged. We see this quite often. Once you can test FC at the higher levels provided by the FAS-DPD, the water will begin to show changes you expect. We'll get there though.

 

[Jimrahbe]

CG,

How have you been chlorinating your pool? I ask because I'm suspect of your CYA reading of only 35%.

If truly 35% then that would be good news.

Did you run the tests outside in bright sunlight with your back to the sun??

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[dsmith99]

The "strong chlorine smell" is not a good thing. A clean pool will have almost no chlorine smell even with a high FC level. I maintain a CYA of 40 with FC of 7-9ppm in my pool and it has almost no chlorine smell at all.

That strong smell is due to combined chlorine (chloramines), spent chlorine that has been consumed by killing algae but has not burned away and remains in the water. It's a normal process that happens, but you have lots of algae to kill so your chlorine is quickly consumed and converted to combined chlorine. Even though it is still in the water it is not capable of doing any more killing. This is where the shock process comes in, you elevate chlorine to high levels to burn away the combined chlorine.

A quick up and down of high FC does not do much when you have algae, you need to SLAM. Shock Level And Maintain, that means elevate the FC to shock level and hold it there so it can kill all the algae and burn off all that combined chlorine that will be produced in the process. If your CYA is 35, then call it 40, your "shock level" is 16 ppm FC. You would need to get FC up to 16 and keep it there by frequent testing and dosing with bleach. The chlorine will rapidly be consumed at first so you must test a few times per hour in the beginning. As the algae is killed off the chlorine will hold for longer periods and you will be able to cut back on testing/dosing. Very important that you don't let the FC level fall even for a short time, as soon as the killing stops the growing starts.

This is where the FAS/DPD test is important. It can accurately test these high levels of 16ppm or even higher, and it can also test for the presence of combined chlorine. It is a "must have" to do the process and most every other kit out there does not provide it.

You definitely want to stick with liquid chlorine, you can use "liquid pool shock", "chlorinating liquid" or plain old bleach these are all the same thing sodium hypochlorite. The pool shock is a higher concentration at about 12.5% where bleach is only 8.25%, exactly the same thing, you just have to add a bit more to do the same thing.

Dry chlorine shock or tablets add CYA to the pool with every dose. This will make cleaning it up even harder so you want to avoid those. It's very important to this process to know exactly what your CYA level is. Higher CYA will take much higher FC to do the job. All those bags of shock you added typically raise CYA to the point this process can't work. Often people come here with CYA levels well over 100, the only way to reduce CYA is to do a water change.

 

[cgcss1]

Thanks for all the replies and suggestions. I have been putting a gallon of bleach every 12 hours and taking reading every few hours. Unfortunately, it has still made no noticeable difference. My FC is still 0 and CYA is still around 35-40.
Should I be dumping in like 10 gallons of liquid chlorine all at once or something?

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I had been using the 3" tabs with the floater last season, not using it yet

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The color of the green swamp is still just as dark as ever

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The FAS-DPD is on order

 

[duraleigh]

Keep adding that jug of bleach every 12 hours but think of it as a "stop gap" until you get your FAS/DPD test. Please read "The "ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" up in Pool School while you are waiting for the FAS/DPD.

Once your FAS/DPD gets to you, you will SLAM the pool by following the SLAM article to the letter. Read up on it.......your pool is going to be crystal clear.

 

[dsmith99]

The algae is consuming the chlorine that you add as fast as you add it.

By the time you test a few hours later it's long gone. Try testing about 15 minutes after adding, one gallon should give you a FC level of about 3.5 in a clean pool the size of yours. But; since you have so much algae it starts consuming the chlorine the minute it's added.

Basically that is the process, not ten gallons but for a 23,500 gallon pool it will take about 5 gallon to get your pool anywhere near "shock level" of 16ppm. Then you test several times per hour, when you see the FC falling you add more. The rapid loss will slow down as the bulk of the algae is killed, then the high FC level can work on the more stubborn stuff.

Until you get the FAS/DPD test you cannot accurately test those higher FC readings. Your K-2005 can really only give you ballpark range of 10-20, or 7.5-15 and even then you have to somewhat guess the shade. The fas/dpd test will give you an actual number to the 1/2 ppm and test levels well beyond 20.

 

[JamesW]

I think that you might have ammonia from bacteria converting CYA into ammonia.

Try adding 4 gallons and then retest in 1 hour.

You definitely need fasdpd to do the proper SLAM. Until your fasdpd test arrives, get a cheap OTO test kit (available anywhere that sells pool supplies) to make sure that your chlorine level is not too high.

Regular dpd can bleach out and give incorrect readings.

What was your CYA at last test prior to this?

How much fresh water has been added since the last CYA test?

Are you just opening the pool and was it covered?

 

[cgcss1]

So while waiting for my FAS-DPD, I added 4 gallons of plain old Walmart bleach 8.25% and tested after an hour. The FC and raised to about 3-4. Added another 4 gallons and it raised to about 5-6 according to the K-2005 FC test then it was time for bed. My CYA leverl is constantly around 35-40. Well this morning it was back to FC 0 almost a clear color after adding 5 drops of the 1 and 2 reagents and also the pool was actually the greenest I have seen it. I did notice tons of what looks like little white dead worms floating in the water. From my research it could be mosquito larvae of some sorts. I have spent nearly $150 and not getting anywhere and will continue to just put a minimal of 1 gallon bleach daily.

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I have also not added any additional water and the pool had been covered in the winter and taken off about a month ago

 

[cgcss1]

It seems like I have to babysit it all day with the SLAM process to ensure all the algae is killed or will be taking steps backwards. Man it is so hard when you do not have the time and work 7 days a week I can tell you that.

 

[Texas Splash]

will continue to just put a minimal of 1 gallon bleach daily

Exactly. No sense driving yourself nuts until you have the FAS-DPD testing in-hand. Until then, stock-up on some more bleach and be prepared to do the following:
- Without adding any stabilizer, add enough bleach to increase FC to "10". Confirm you got that high then retest 10 minutes later. If it stayed at 5 or above, see the SLAM statement below. If the FC dropped drastically after 10 minutes below an FC of 5, then increase immediately and retest 10 min later. Continue this process until the FC holds to at least 5-10 after 10 minutes time. Once it does, see the SLAM statement below.

(SLAM) - After completing that crazy 10-min FC testing drill, your water is ready to "maintain" a regular SLAM. Now you add stabilizer as required to get the CYA to a target of "30". Make sure the pH is at about 7.2, then increase FC to your new SLAM/shock level of "12" and maintain it that way until you pass all 3 SLAM criteria (link below in my sig). Remember for FC testing ....

For FC testing, simply use the 10ML water sample with one heaping scoop of powder & mix. Count drops until clear and divide by 2. Example: 20 drops = FC of 10.

Keep us posted once you receive the FAS-DPD or if you have any questions.