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Thread: New pool owner checking in

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    Join Date
    Apr 2017
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    New pool owner checking in

    I am finally all up and running with all of my installation of the new pool done.
    I think I am a little off, but close on my chemistry. Here is what I was at last night.
    FC: 4
    pH: 8
    TA: 140
    CH: 475
    CYA: 50ish
    Salt: 3250

    I have been to Leslie's where they give me bad advice like I need to shock it every week and also need Perfect Pool every week, but I don't listen to them.
    I put some muriatic acid in yesterday to bring the PH down but think I need to put more in. Do I need more stabilizer too? I did two gallons of pool conditioner a few days ago but not sure if I need more or another product.

    Also, I have a raised spa that overflows into the pool when the pool is running. The PB set up my schedule to just have the pool run, do I need to run the spa setting too? I have a sparkling clean pool but the spa always has dirt in it.
    22,000 Gallon In-ground Gunite / Plaster (New pool, plaster done March 2017) with Spa
    Pentair Intelliflo variable speed pump and 2HP water feature pump
    Salt Water Generator
    Pentair Easy Touch System w/ Iphone app
    Pentair Gas Heater and Pentair Auto Vacuum

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    Mod Squad JVTrain's Avatar
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    Re: New pool owner checking in

    Welcome aboard!

    You do need to get your pH back down. pH rise is directly tied to your TA level and the amount of aeration your pool has in general. High TA = faster pH rise. Lots of aeration such as waterfalls, deck jets, spill overs and even SWG units give faster pH rise as well. As you add acid, your TA level will come down. Continue to lower your pH to 7.2 and allow it to rise naturally until your TA is closer to 60-80 ppm. You will see slower pH rise at lower TA levels. Eventually, your pH should stabilize for longer periods and you should only lower it when it goes ABOVE 7.8. You should raise your CYA slightly. See the Pool School - Recommended Levels Add it incrementally so as not to overshoot your target.

    You should have daily circulation in the pool or spa to keep them both sanitized.
    Joel - TFP Moderator - Minnesota - **Become a TFP Supporter!** Helpful Links: ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry - SLAM Procedure - Chlorine/CYA Chart
    40x20 Pool: 32K Gallons * Vinyl * Bleach Chlorination * Hayward S270T Sand Filter * Pentair SuperFlo 1 HP * Teledyne/Laars Heater * AquaVac Tigershark * TF-100 w/ SpeedStir
    Isolated Spa - 345 Gallons

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    Mod Squad mknauss's Avatar
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    Re: New pool owner checking in

    I would wait on the stabilizer for a few days to be sure what you have. You did not state which SWCG you have, hopefully at a minimum the IC40. You will be running it quite a bit in midsummer to maintain FC.

    Unless your Auto Vacuum cleans the spa too you will have dirt in it. Welcome to our dusty desert!

    Watch your CSI closely. You will get scale quickly unless you manage it. You will need to get the TA down to ~70 in the short term.

    Take care.
    6000 Gallon IG Fiberglass with integrated Spa;Pentair CCP240 Cartridge Filter with Pentair Intelliflo VS Pump and HTR250 heater. IC40 SWG. EasyTouch 4. Dolphin Active20 Robot "Roadrunner", TF 100 Test Kit w/SpeedStir!
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    Marty

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    domct203's Avatar
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    Re: New pool owner checking in

    I would consider raising that CYA as you have a SWG, and the Vegas sun. A CYA of 70ppm is the minimum recommended with a SWG.

    Chlorine CYA Chart

    Your pH is most likely high from your high TA level. As you add MA to lower your pH, the TA will drop as well. Eventually you should reach a point there pH & TA are happy together and pH rise slows considerably.

    I don't have any direct experience with a spa, but the aeration created by the spill over will also cause pH to rise.
    Dom - TFP Guide
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    Mod Squad mknauss's Avatar
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    Re: New pool owner checking in

    I need to balance the statements that pH rise will 'slow' once your TA is down. Not really. Our hard water here which is high in TA will require regular additions of MA. In my tiny (6000 gal) pool I add ~1 cup of acid every 5-7 days. Part of that is needing to keep the pH lower to manage CSI. The CH will climb quickly here due to our massive evaporation rates. You need to plan to drain your pool every 24 months or so as the CH will rise to unmanageable levels.
    6000 Gallon IG Fiberglass with integrated Spa;Pentair CCP240 Cartridge Filter with Pentair Intelliflo VS Pump and HTR250 heater. IC40 SWG. EasyTouch 4. Dolphin Active20 Robot "Roadrunner", TF 100 Test Kit w/SpeedStir!
    CLICK HERE to Become a TroubleFreePool.com Supporter!! Pool Math App
    Marty

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    Re: New pool owner checking in

    Thanks for the advice. I will add some more MA today. Do you guys measure out precise amounts of MA of just eye ball it? I wasn't sure if I should be pouring this stuff in some sort of measuring cup as I assume you don't want to get it on your skin.
    So do you think I should have my spa turned on a schedule on my easy touch along with the pool? When I turn 'on" the spa the jets come on so I was just confused as to how filtered the spa water gets on pool on mode or on spa on mode.
    22,000 Gallon In-ground Gunite / Plaster (New pool, plaster done March 2017) with Spa
    Pentair Intelliflo variable speed pump and 2HP water feature pump
    Salt Water Generator
    Pentair Easy Touch System w/ Iphone app
    Pentair Gas Heater and Pentair Auto Vacuum

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