New to pools and already off to a bad start

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Brooksie365

0
Apr 19, 2017
11
Massachusetts
Pool Size
28000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Hello,
My name is Bryan and I am new to pool. I just purchased my first house and was ecstatic about the pool. It is a 18x36 ft pool with a deep end not sure of depths so i don't have the gallons yet. I had an inspection done on the pool prior to purchasing the house. There was to much snow to pull the entire cover off so the pool company told me but they looked over the plumbing and sand filter and said it was good.
I finally pull the cover off the pool and it was filthy. Very dirty and dark green. i took some pictures and went over to my local pool store. I blindly bought 10 gallons of liquid chlorine 2 buckets of ph plus and a bottle of algicide per there recommendation. They told me to get the pump running and start adding everything they gave me. so i did. The pump has ran for over 24 hours and the pool is still very green. My concern is that my levels are crazy and i don't know if i need to fix them first. According to the strip my ph is through the roof darker than any level on the chart.
I don't know why I didn't turn to this website first but now i need help.

On a separate note i think the pool has 2 jets but i can only find one. I will post a picture of the pump tomorrow to show my reasons for thinking that. I found one in the deep end but that is all.

Thank you in advance,
Bryan
 
welcome to the site...there is plenty of experts here that will direct you in the right direction, do a lot of reading and load up on some walmart bleach for now, order the TFP-100 test kit and clean your filters often...
 
Hey there Bryan, and welcome to TFP! :wave: At this point, it's very important to test your own water and stay out of the pool store. Definitely don't add any algaecides or other products because anything other than regular bleach probably has a side-effect and you don't need that. We at TFP would love to help, but we need to see at-home accurate test results from either a TF-100 (link below) or Taylor K-2006. Since you have algae, you'll need to test more often which will require the TF-100 XL option, or the K-2006(C).

Please consider making that your first purchase priority, and the rest will go much better. Nice to have you with us at TFP.
 
I have placed my order per your recommendation of the tf 100 xl.
Is there anything I should do in the mean time? I have not vacuumed the pool as I cant see the bottom.

I attached two pictures of the pump set up. The pipes coming out from the filter are going out to the jets. I see there is a t with two pipes but I can only find one jet in the deep end. Am I looking at this wrong?
Filter 2.JPG
filter.JPG
 
The two pipes would seem to indicate they are return lines back to the pool. Not sure about why one isn't showing at the pool unless it was plugged or closed-off at some point. I can't think of any other reason for it since the two lines cannot be operated independently. :confused:

Until you receive the TF-100, I would simply keep a close eye on the filter pressure gauge as I suspect it will climb fast with algae. If it gets really bad (pressure) you can run on recirculate for a while if you need to for now. I would also recommend sweeping/brushing to keep everything agitated and to help you remove any physical debris that may have made its way to the water. Certainly review the SLAM page (link below) so you know what to expect when we start. But before you start the SLAM process, be prepared to post a full set of test numbers from your new TF-100 when it arrives. That will help us to guide you accurately.

You did well by ordering the TF-100. You'll see. :goodjob: Have a great day.
 
Welcome to the forum. Getting your TF-100 will start the ball rolling. Hundreds of us here will help you every ste4p of the way and your pool will be crystal clear.....we promise.

Stay out of that pool Store!!
 
Hey Brooksie, glad you are here. Please take a moment to fill out a signature line (you can find where to make a signature under Settings) and tell us everything you know about the pool- size? Composition (fiberglass? Vinyl? Gunnite?) and equipment as you know. Thanks :)
 
Great to hear package shipped today.
I found the other jet. I had only been pulling the cover back to the stairs. when I uncover the stairs there was the plugged jet.
As for the signature I will fill it out when I know more about the pool.
 
good afternoon,
I have received my test kit. My numbers are so crazy i tested everything twice and got the same readings.

PH 8.2 + was not even close to any of the colors
CI 5 + was not even close to any of the colors
BR 10+ was not even close to any of the colors
FC 30
TC 2
CH 1625
TA 250
CYA inconclusive tube was full and could still see the dot

The green in the pool is gone but it is very cloudy still

Please help
 

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Welcome back! :wave: Okay, so here's what we need to do now. We need to clarify a couple things from your tests. First, we like to see test results posted as follows as it helps with our tired eyes :crazy:
FC
CC
CYA
pH
TA
CH

Some of your numbers are questionable, so lets re-cap a couple tests:
- FC (Free Chlorine): Use the R-0870 (powder) and R-0871 (drops). Use the 10ML sample size, add one hefty scoop of powder & mix. Count drops until clear and divide by 2. Example: 14 drops = FC of 7.
- CC (Combined Chlorine): immediately after recording the FC above, add 5 drops of R-0003. If it turns pink, count # of drops until clear. Divide that number by 2.
- CYA: The black dot never going away means little to no stabilizer at all. You'll need to add some, but let's confirm all results first.
- PH: Should never be over 7.8. Be prepared to have muriatic acid on-hand and slowly add the required amount to lower pH to about 7.2 in preparation for a SLAM. To be safe, add dosages in several different stages so you get the feel for it and don't go too low. Let water mix for about 30 min then re-test. Always use the Poolmath calculator to help you figure out how much to add.
- TA: Could be correct even though high. Some places have a naturally high TA. We'll come back to that later.
- CH: I think there was a testing error. To confirm ... 10 ML sample size then 10 drops of #10 (mix), 3 drops of 11 (mix) then count drops of #12 until it turns blue (might look light blue). Multiply that number by 25. Example - 8 drops x 25 = CH of 200. PS ~ Do you have a magnetic speedstir to help with stirring the solutions?
- BR (is for Bromine) you can disregard that one.

So please try those again when you get a moment so we can confirm your next step. Congrats on the test kit!
 
Yes, during a SLAM the pump will run 24/7 until the SLAM is over. For muriatic acid, you can get it at the pool store (one of the rare times to get something there) or even at a Lowes or Home Depot. The look like these (notice the 31.45% strength):
dbtgallery.php


dbtgallery.php
 
Retest results

FC 19
CC 1.5
CH 700
CYA same results


I double checked all of these and i am sure they are correct accord to the instructions it came with.
I am going to be adding the acid tonight.
As for the speed stir no i do not i just shake it.
 
Okay, then here's what you'll want to do. Since your pool amazingly seems to be holding FC well, (almost too well), you need stabilizer in the pool ASAP. CYA protects the pool and liner from chlorine. Don't add anymore bleach (FC). Let is fall to "12". Make sure your pH is at about 7.2, then add enough granular stabilizer for a CYA target of "30". Use the sock-soaking method to dissolve the stabilizer.

From there you should have: PH of 7.2-ish, CYA of 30, and FC of 12. Now you follow the SLAM page (link below) and maintain that FC of 12 until you pass all 3 SLAM criteria. It's important to read that entire page and make sure you're doing all the things noted there. CH is high for some reason in your area, but not the worse. 700 is a lot better than over 1600, so there must be some testing variances there. Honestly, as soon as you can swing getting the speedstir - do it. It's extremely handy for doing the FC, CC, TA, and CH tests. For now, focus on the notes above and doing the SLAM and you'll be on your way.
 
roger that!
I just added the acid today. Ill take the readings tomorrow.
Now reading about it i just took the cover off my pool today. There has been no sunlight to my pool. is that why my fc has stayed so high?
 
Brooksie365 said:
roger that!
I just added the acid today. Ill take the readings tomorrow.
Now reading about it i just took the cover off my pool today. There has been no sunlight to my pool. is that why my fc has stayed so high?
Click to expand...

Yes, keeping a pool covered and away from sunlight negates the sun's UV affects on the chlorine.It chews chlorine up, so to speak and makes. Covers make chlorine lasts longer. I have a automatic cover so I learned this and have to be cautious not to let my SWG churn out too much chlorine if I'm not going to be opening the pool cover for a while.
 
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