HELP! Need advice re: installation of new Pentair Master Temp 400

[TxBwana]

Does this look right to you? The cord coming out the vent? There appears to be a circular tab below that seems to be designed for the cord exit.

I'm asking because my last heater died due to rats. So I was going to order the MK Rat Proofing kit -- then I noticed that when they installed this heater today, the cord is coming out the vent... which would make it harder to rat-proof....

Tomorrow is the prep work for my replaster so I'd like to bring it up and get it fixed tomorrow if necessary.


Thanks!

 

[davedive]

I'm not a pool expert or electrician but I did just go through a rodent repair with my Mastertemp 400. See the thread [h=2]Mice in the MasterTemp 400 heater!. Look in that thread and scroll down and look at some of the pictures. GDN posted some very good pictures of his/her rodent proofing. Study the picture showing the back of the unit. There is a large grey power cord going into it and a smaller black cord that follows it. The smaller black cord is for the fireman's switch. Mine is the same way. Big grey power cord going into the back. The cord you are showing is coming out the front and it does not look thick enough so I'm not sure what you have there.[/h]

 

[Pool Clown]

Make the installer come back and correct that. You are right, that knock out should be used, especially if you are going to use the screen kit.

 

[ps0303]

First off, what is that cable for? If it's for power, that is not the correct type of wiring to use. Secondly, there is a correct place where the power should come in at. See the attached manual on page 10. It shows you where the electrical should come in at. If this is low voltage wire for your automation system, if you have one, again it appears they used a cable that is not usually used. Thermostat cable, like how your in home thermostat is connected to your furnace, is usually used and it's thinner than what they used.

Get it done correctly. The area just below where the wire is, it is a spot for a pressure relieve valve should one be installed.

https://www.parts4heating.com/v/vspfiles/images/pdfs/MasterTemp.pdf

 

[GDN]

Hello TxBwana - I'm just South of Plano a mile or two - right down the road. Here is a link to my pictures I posted of the MK Rat proofing installed. https://www.troublefreepool.com/thr...-400-heater!?p=1203413&viewfull=1#post1203413 My heater has the power and bonding properly installed, but my installer didn't install the control cable (From the Pentair panel) correctly - they also just ran it through one of the vents. If I remember correctly this is the only modification I did to the rat proofing kit - I made one cut down the wire mesh just enough to slip it around that cable and cut just enough of a hole that it wouldn't puncture that cable. Otherwise it all fit nicely. I could and should have moved the cable to a knock out, but I didn't.

 

[TxBwana]

Thanks for the info! The pictures help a lot. I think it is the cord to go to the Jandy unit. So I guess I'll do a mod on the wire like you did, GDN.. not sure where there is a knockout for that cord and if there isn't, don't want to bug them about it.

 

[GDN]

From another poster I think the "Knockout" or the place to put that cable is right there below it. I didn't see a real issue with where mine was, so I made the small cut in the mesh and just installed around where the cable was.

 

[JoelFitz]

To second what ps0303 stated, that isn't correct wiring for that heater. It looks to be leftover pool light cord which isn't UL listed for the power draw in your heater. You need to call them back and have them redo the supply wires correct as it can affect your warranty. Also that knock out is for a pressure relief valve not electrical, the correct point of entry for the electrical is on the back side to the lower right of the exhaust.

Edit: I didn't read all the replies before posting... my bad.

 

[GDN]

To clarify- TxB - that cable you have in the pic is your low voltage control cable right? I know mine is. My electrical component is wired properly- its the two wire low voltage wire that is put through the vent.

 

[TxBwana]

GDN-- yes, that's right, it's the cable that goes to the Jandy control unit, not the electrical power cable. That is going out the other side, properly installed inside a flexible conduit.

Going to modify the rat proofing like you did and I think it will work just fine.

 

[ps0303]

FYI, there is NO knockout for low voltage wiring on the outside of these units. There are knock outs on the metal box inside though. Many times installers will drill a small enough hole for the low voltage wire to feed thru. Others do like what is seen in the picture, just run it thru the vent.

What you see in the above photos are for the pressure relief valve.

 

[GDN]

Thanks for that info.