Shaft seal replacement on Jandy ePump

[cjpwalker]

Yesterday I noticed a wet spot under the motor, and a pretty steady 5 second drip coming from underneath​ where the motor mates up to the pump. The pump was new with the pool last August, and is probably under warranty, but realistically the seal assy is $20 and I would rather just fix it than bring in the PB.

My question is - are there any surprises inside this thing? Other gaskets or one-time use parts that will need replaced? From what I can tell from exploded parts views there are some o-rings that I will lube up, but it should be pretty straight forward.

I ordered an oem "Zodiac R0479400 New Style Ceramic and Carbon Mechanical Shaft Seal."

 

[zea3]

9 times out of 10 a bad shaft seal is the problem with leaks such as you describe. When you re-assemble the pump make sure the o-rings are well lubed with silicon pool lube and they are properly seated in the groove. It should not be overstretched or pinched when installed.

 

[cjpwalker]

Re: Shaft seal replacement on Jandy ePump - FIXED! (with pics)

Super easy repair. Pull the perimeter bolts, and the pump pops apart easily. There are only two o-rings - one around the back plate, and one up on the snorkel end of the diffuser. Both were like new as the pump is less than a year old. Two screws to remove the diffuser, then a left hand thread center screw secures the impeller on. The impeller then unscrews lefty-loosy, and the rear motor shaft has an allen socket in the end of it so a 5/16 allen wrench can be used to hold the motor still while unscrewing the impeller (which was only hand tight from the factory). Both sides of the seal install on the shaft, then the impeller mates up to the back side of the seal, so when you pull the impeller the seal is still stuck to the shaft. When I separated the motor from the back plate, the carbon side of the seal popped off of the shaft easily enough, then I punched the ceramic out with a socket. Sorry - I guess I didn't get a good pic of that part of the job...

You can see a couple of small score marks on the old carbon seal in the picture (old on the right, new on the left). The drip was very slow - 5 to 10 seconds, but it was steady (you can see the hard water staining on the motor base).

Took me about an hour as I went slow, and had to break up a couple of noodle and dive ring arguments as the kids were swimming while I worked on it (I swear I'm going to throw them all out, and buy all BLACK!). Anyway, if I have to do it again, it's probably really only about a 1/2hr job...