Need help with chlorine

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E

ekdolan

0
Apr 17, 2017
6
Iowa
Hello...

Long story short- I have a lot to learn! Please help me while I'm reading up on all this info! :)

In ground, 20,000 gallons Hayward sand filter

Trying to open this pool- alkalinity good, ph good, so started working on chlorine. I have a good test kit- the Taylor one. But sometimes I still use strips (so ashamed, now I know.)
So right now my Taylor kit says FC 6.2 (!) and CC 5.6. Water is cloudy. What do I need to do? Let the chlorine burn off (and burn my test strips in the mean time?) Anything else I can or should do?

I've struggled with this pool (mainly the opening of it) for 3 years now and I just want to figure this out! Teach me please.

Thank you!
Erin
 
Whatever you do, do NOT let the chlorine burn off!

What's your CyA level? I think you are about to go for a Shock treatment, and NOT some miracle elixir at the pool store called Shock but rather chlorine, lots of chlorine, but we need your other numbers first, CyA most importantly.
 
Welcome to TFP!

Your CC number is very concerning, are you sure it was 5.6? Have you just opened the pool? Have you added anything to the pool recently, such as Yellow Out?

As others have said, the FC level is related to the CYA level and depending on what that is your FC level might not be high at all. But, no matter the CYA level that CC level is a major red flag.
 
Yes, I think I need to freshen/refill some of the things in my test kit.
Also I just read I should have let the water warm to room temp, it's probably 50 degrees.

I had gotten away from using granular shock because we had problems with the CYA being too high the first year or two. I'm thinking I need to go back to using granular at times.
 
Also I just read I should have let the water warm to room temp, it's probably 50 degrees.
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Very true. 50 is a bit chilly. Room temp for an hour or two should work fine, along with some bright sunlight outside (at your back) when viewing the tube.

I'm thinking I need to go back to using granular at times.
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Perfectly acceptable as long as you are aware of your current levels and can see what may/may not happen when using the Poolmath calculator.

TIP - with the K-2006 ... it looks like you may be using the 25ML sample and multiplying x 2? If so, I'd suggest using the 10ML water sample with ONE heaping scoop of power. Then mix, count drops, and divide by 2. Example: 14 drops = FC of 7. That may save you some reagent. :)

Oh, and welcome again to TFP. :wink:
 
Questions about the Taylor kit- the scoop of powder doesn't dissolve well (just ordered some new.) Should I stir it with something to get it to dissolve completely? Also, I add the drops and am trying to get the color to change from pink to clear. Sometimes it gets close to clear and then seems a little pink and takes another drop or two to get it to stay clear. Is that the accurate number or do you call it good as soon as it turns more clear than pink?
 
It's not uncommon to have a few undissolved pieces of powder in the vial. It's okay. If it gets real clumpy in the round (original) container, you can crush those. As for the pink to clear, the pink color may become extremely faint before it goes away. Make sure that the sample goes completely clear. There are some unusual circumstances though noted in the footnotes to the FAS-DPD testing on the Pool School - FAS-DPD Chlorine Test page. You might take a peek at those just to be familiar. Hope that helps.

Is that the accurate number or do you call it good as soon as it turns more clear than pink?
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As soon as it turns clear - record it. If you let that mixture sit very long, it will begin to change back to faint pink.
 

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Good morning :)

Situation this morning is same as yesterday. I'm officially out of the powder in my test kit to check the chlorine. I have strips :/

Last reading I got fc was 4.2 and cc was 6. Pool is super white cloudy. From the quick reading I've done it sounds like I need to add chlorine every couple hours? Backwash daily? What do you guys think? Kit refill won't be here until Thursday...

I'm in Iowa so temps are still cool, water is cold, I don't think I need to worry about CYA yet? My first problem is getting the free chlorine ahead of combined chlorine right?

Any tips are MUCH appreciated.

Erin
 
Erin, good morning to you as well! Well, it always stinks running out of reagent, but not all is lost. You're correct that with reagents, you would check FC/CC every couple hours and adjust/increase the FC accordingly. What we find is that testing and adjustment is frequent early in a SLAM, but tapers-off as time goes on because the FC holds better. It's good your water is still chilly as that tends to slow-down the growth of algae.

Yes, the elevated CC and low FC are a concern, but easily remedies with the proper amount of bleach which you will be able to do once your refills arrive (no guessing). :)

You will need to verify your CYA though. You noted above it was zero. When the CYA falls to zero and FC gets real low, it can cause some other problems we need to advise you on. So in a minutes I'm going to give you some new things to be prepared for when your refills arrive.
 
Okay Erin, as you can see, everyone acknowledges you need to perform a TFP SLAM. But as I noted above, I would like for you to do the following first (when you get those refills):
First, make sure pH is adjusted down to about 7.2, no more than 7.4.
Next, follow the following step-by-step:
1. Begin a SLAM and dose FC up to a SLAM/Shock FC of 10. Do not add additional CYA at this point.
2. Retest FC at 10-minute intervals.
a. If FC loss is greater than 50%, add FC immediately to bring back up to SLAM level "10" and continue retesting FC @ 10-minute intervals.
b. IF FC loss is 50% or less, add FC to bring back up to SLAM level. Now you can go to Step 3.
3. If CYA is below 30 ppm, add enough CYA (granular stabilizer) to bring level up to 30 ppm. Use the sock soaking method we speak of at TFP and squeeze the sock frequently. Use the Poolmath calculator to verify how much to add to get to a CYA of 30.
4. Now increase FC slightly to "12" with bleach and continue SLAM as directed in the SLAM article until the SLAM Criteria of Done are met. Test as directed in the SLAM article - no longer need to test FC at 10 minute increments at this point.
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Refer to these steps when your refills arrive. In the meantime, make sure you have a few gallons of bleach ready, granular stabilizer and a white sock to sock it in, and review the SLAM page (link below).

Erin, if you have any questions, please let us know.

FYI - According to the Poolmath calculator, a 20K pools needs about 5 lbs (80 ounces) of granular stabilizer to increase CYA from 0 to 30. Wal-Mart, Lowe's, and Home Depot all usually carry stabilizer in a 4lb container for about $17, so it looks like you'll need a couple containers.
 
those are great instructions to get it going quicker. Any way the SLAM page could be updated to include that?
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Those are some instructions developed by TFP Experts that don't always apply to each pool or situation. Only when we see some certain red flags do we consider implementing them. In Erin's case, we're optimistic that those steps will help her pool water overcome the very high CC level and get back on track.
 
What do you suggest I do while I wait for my test kit refills- can I add stabilizer and work on CYA? Raise the ph a little (I think it's 7.2 or maybe a little below.) What do you advise?

Thank you SO MUCH for all your help!! I'm so thankful for your guidance. I have 5 kids and my husband and I just haven't been able to dive into this chemistry the way we've needed to!!

Erin
 
Don't add CYA at this time! You need to be able to follow and pass the instructions Texas Splash gave you before you add any CYA to the water. You could end up with a bigger problem by adding CYA now. I would just put everything on hold until you get your refills.
 

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