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Thread: I am about to burn my pool down.

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    Join Date
    Apr 2017
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    Bay Minette, AL
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    Angry I am about to burn my pool down.

    Hello,

    I acquired a pool last summer in the purchase of my home. It is a 20x40 3ft shallow end and 8ft deep end. I did the bare minimum last year, it was already clear when we got it. I just added chlorine. This year trying to open it I am about to run out of hair to pull out. The pool was not winterized and was uncovered near a lot of trees. It was dark green, could barely see the top step. I have gone through the following steps.

    1. Spend 3 days scooping leaves out. Got as many of them as humanly possible. (After leaves out I turned on pump and have not turned it off since, backwash when pressure hits 30 psi (normally runs around 18-19 psi))
    2. Adjust ph - ph was below 6.2 so it took a couple days and a lot of sodium carbonate but I got that up
    3. SLAM - I raised the FC level to approx 20 ppm and kept it there for the better part of a week. (It started getting expensive so I stopped when there were no noticeable results)
    4. Have water tested at pool store. Told my CYA was too high and I was in chlorine lock.
    5. Drained half the water and refilled. Twice.
    6. Had water retested at pool store. Told my CYA was ok, that I should shock and then flock or revive and vac to waste.
    7. Scrubbed the walls and shocked with 6 lbs of calcium-hypo(something) left overnight.
    8. Next morning pool was just as green. Called pool store, told to shock it again.
    9. Scrubbed the walls shocked with 9 lbs of calcium-hypo(something) left overnight
    10. Next morning pool was just as green.
    11. Get mad and cuss a lot then make this post.


    These are my latest readings from the pool store.
    FC - 0.29 ppm
    TC - 0.62 ppm
    CC - 0.33 ppm
    pH - 6.9
    Hardness - 38 ppm
    Alkalinity (w/ stabilizer correction) - 21 ppm
    CYA - 39 ppm
    Copper - 0.2 ppm
    Iron - 0.1 ppm
    Phosphate - 124 ppb

    These were taken after refilling my pool just prior to my step 7 shock. I tested at home after and recall that I had a pH of 7.8 and FC and TC were over 10. (My kit does not read over 10)

    Any advice on what I am doing wrong or if I am just not being patient enough. I can add pics later after I get home.
    30,000, IG, vinyl, sand filter, 1.25 hp fixed speed, >10 years old, Taylor K-2006C for full tests and a pH/OTO for quick tests, standard chlorine

  2. Back To Top    #2
    Mod Squad Jimrahbe's Avatar
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    Re: I am about to burn my pool down.

    W,

    Welcome to TFP.. A Great resource for those that do not understand that water puts out fires...

    I would recommend that you check out this link.... https://www.troublefreepool.com/cont...at-is-tfpc-bbb

    The main thing you are doing wrong is going to the Pool $tore... If you decide to stay with us, we can point you in the right direction to take control of your pool yourself, and stay out of the Pool Store.

    Although our advice is free, we need to be able to compare apples to apples, which means you have to test your own water using one of our recommended test kits. Either the TF-100 or the Taylor K2006C. We can't use, nor do we trust, "Guess" strips or Pool Store testing.

    Thanks for posting,

    Jim R.
    Finished in 2015 - 17K Gal, IG, 20' x 25' Almost Rectangular Pool, Pebble finish, three rockport water falls. Pentair Equipment: EasyTouch 4, IC40 SWG, 3 HP VS Pump, CCP520 Cartridge Filter.
    TF100 with SpeedStir and SampleSizer, ColorQ Pro 7, Dolphin Premier Robot Cleaner, added Screen Logic 2, added small 3 person Caldera Spa.

  3. Back To Top    #3
    borjis's Avatar
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    Re: I am about to burn my pool down.

    If you got all the leaf junk out there, a big part of getting it right is already done.

    Just follow the steps of the SLAM process and you will be happy again.

    As Jim said, a proper test kit is needed first otherwise it's like driving blind.
    16x32 IG Vinyl, 13,000 Gals. Hayward S-244T sand filter, SP2810X15 pump
    (1.5 HP motor) Raypak PR266AEN (266k btu) gas heater. TF-100 Test Kit.
    Dolphin E10 Cleaning Robot.

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    Mod Squad pooldv's Avatar
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    Re: I am about to burn my pool down.

    Here is the long version on how to clean up your pool
    Turning Your Green Swamp Back into a Sparkling Oasis

    And here is the short version, SLAM
    TFP Moderator
    If TFP helped you or saved you money - Become a TFP Supporter! <--Click here
    2012 build and pics, 20k gal gunite, black onyx pebblesheen, OK flagstone, IntellifoVS, cart filter w/Pleatco, IC40 SWG, Solartouch, 5 12'x4' solar panels, HP50HA heat pump, 8mil solar cover, borates, TF-100 test kit, SONOS, Doheny's Discovery Robot, hot tub on bleach

  5. Back To Top    #5

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    Re: I am about to burn my pool down.

    Hello guys,

    Just to give you an update. I finally got my pool clear and it looks beautiful. I got my K-2006C kit in today and got a chance to run a full battery of tests. The results (from my initial run, so may be off, but I think I did it correctly) are as follows.

    FC- 0 ppm
    CC- 0 ppm
    pH - 7.4
    TA- 100 ppm
    CH - 60 ppm
    CYA- <30 ppm (I filled it all the way up and I could see the black dot just fine.)

    I am going to get some bleach to put into it right now. Also, I have some of the 3" pucks to put in the skimmer basket. Should I just use those to bring the CYA level up slowly, or should I go for the stabilizer?

    I was a little suprised by the FC reading, but I tested it with the FAS-DPD and with a little OTO test I have and both came up with nothing.
    30,000, IG, vinyl, sand filter, 1.25 hp fixed speed, >10 years old, Taylor K-2006C for full tests and a pH/OTO for quick tests, standard chlorine

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    Mod Squad Jimrahbe's Avatar
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    Re: I am about to burn my pool down.

    Wes,

    I'd add stabilizer and bleach now..

    You want to quickly get enough CYA into your pool so that the chlorine does not get used up so quickly.

    You can still use the 3" pucks over time as long as you keep your eye on the CYA level..

    But putting them in the skimmer is never a good idea. If you are going to use them get a floating dispenser.

    Thanks,

    Jim R.
    Finished in 2015 - 17K Gal, IG, 20' x 25' Almost Rectangular Pool, Pebble finish, three rockport water falls. Pentair Equipment: EasyTouch 4, IC40 SWG, 3 HP VS Pump, CCP520 Cartridge Filter.
    TF100 with SpeedStir and SampleSizer, ColorQ Pro 7, Dolphin Premier Robot Cleaner, added Screen Logic 2, added small 3 person Caldera Spa.

  7. Back To Top    #7
    borjis's Avatar
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    Re: I am about to burn my pool down.

    skimmer basket is not a good place for pucks, ESPECIALLY in a vinyl lined pool.

    When the pump is off the water in the skimmer will get super concentrated and burn / shrivel / discolor your liner near the skimmer opening.
    someone posted a photo of theirs that got burned a few months back and they had to replace it.

    If you use the pucks, put them in a floater but only while the pump is running.
    16x32 IG Vinyl, 13,000 Gals. Hayward S-244T sand filter, SP2810X15 pump
    (1.5 HP motor) Raypak PR266AEN (266k btu) gas heater. TF-100 Test Kit.
    Dolphin E10 Cleaning Robot.

  8. Back To Top    #8
    SCon36's Avatar
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    Jul 2014
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    Bedford, KY
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    Re: I am about to burn my pool down.

    Quote Originally Posted by Jimrahbe View Post
    Wes,

    I'd add stabilizer and bleach now..

    You want to quickly get enough CYA into your pool so that the chlorine does not get used up so quickly.

    You can still use the 3" pucks over time as long as you keep your eye on the CYA level..

    But putting them in the skimmer is never a good idea. If you are going to use them get a floating dispenser.

    Thanks,

    Jim R.
    I can't stress this enough. I made this mistake at opening this season and have been here long enough to know better. Getting that CYA up to the right level is important. I wasted many bottles of bleach already.
    SCon36

    24,000 Gallon IG vinyl pool (16x36x8) with Hayward S200 sand filter and Hayward pump and heat pump. Built August 2011. I use a Taylor K-2005 test kit with a K-1515 add on.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bIgL...0MyAw&index=29

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