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Thread: Greetings from the Shark's Tooth Capital of the World

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    VeniceFL's Avatar
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    Greetings from the Shark's Tooth Capital of the World

    We own a Frankenstein pool (read on, you'll see). Finally coming out of the woodwork here and weaning off of Leslie's. Owned same pool since 1999, generally no issues beyond occasional blooms due to inattention. Pool needs re plastered, no shame there, it was built in 1984. However, about 10 yrs ago, we added a large concrete pad and shed that abuts the lanai and this changed the water drainage off the roof to the extent the new pad started sinking (+/-2"). Yes we are on just enough of an elevation/hill (in Florida no less!) to make the runoff cause serious erosion. Noticed this about 5 yrs ago, (it did not appear overnight) and installed a low retaining wall. Still had issues, until noticing that the downspout drain was causing erosion under the pad itself, which is right next to the deep end wall of the pool. (Don;t ask how we missed that). Pool noticeably settled +/- 1" in one corner of deep end and some cracking but very little leaking appeared. Then in 2015 spring, the leak got worse and we were forced to take action. Total visible cracks in lanai were about 30' over a number of locations.

    Long story short, does one spend thousands to replaster the pool (along with the updating the deck and a 15 x 30 lanai, and a cage..all of which are due for an update) when the pool may be structurally compromised? No. At least not right away. Understand, no quarrels regarding the need to do the updates, it is certainly time, just hate to do so and have the pool keep sinking and ruin the shell and plaster.

    After a disappointing half dozen estimates from various pool companies (disappointing in that far too many companies disregarded the cracks altogether and just wanted the quick $6000 to re-plaster. Scary.) We decided to go ahead and mud-jack the pad (actually ended up using a poly level product but thats another story, albeit one with a happy ending) and the deep end of the pool to fill any voids from water erosion. After hopefully stabilizing the area around the pool and eliminating the root cause, we set off on an adventure last May. (obviously corrected the downspout as well) After a long month of chipping delaminated marcite and cleaning out cracks, we used an inject-able crack sealer and carbon fiber staples to stabilize the shell, which was otherwise in pretty good shape. Then we painted using a two part epoxy.

    The thinking goes like this. The paint cost and staples cost about $2000. Yours truly did the work because he wanted it done right. We are a year after the project and happy to report no issues with the structure, leaks or paint peeling. Looks good, just lost a touch of color but we expected that. We expect the paint to fail or at leat not last more than a few years...we have harsh sun and high temps here, but if it fails in the next year or so or longer, and the structure seem sound, we will feel much better re-plastering it.

    Here is the somewhat annoying part. We cannot seem to keep the pool balanced chemically. Both the paint company and pool store say the paint ought not impact the chemistry at all. I find this difficult to believe. I actually came here to this site initially to investigate painting pools and any impacts that may have (and have not seen anything on it but I may have missed something) but while here, I took note of the process you espouse. We expected to go broke buying chemicals when we first refilled the pool last year, but we simply cannot keep the algae down. And we are tired of the pool shop tango with algecides etc. Again, we are long time owners, and are fairly used to keeping the pool in good shape. So here we are. We are getting our feet wet with he K - 2006. No issues using it. We do have 100+ CYA (no doubt from the shock the store kept giving us) so we are diluting without overworking the well, and inthe meantime keeping our FC at recommended levels for that CYA.

    Anyway thats enough, I am now introduced, and the photos will explain the Frankenstein pool name my sister gave my pool, but the repairs and paint is not something people see every day, so I thought it might be helpful to others, and also to us to put it up here.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    14x28 [12,000 Gal.] IG, Painted Gunite/Marcite (long story...temporary finish, painted June 2016), Hayward C-900 filter, Hayward 1.5 HP pump
    Built 1984, never re-plastered...yet. Giving up on Leslies, using K-2006, solar heater, well water

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    Mod Squad pooldv's Avatar
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    Re: Greetings from the Shark's Tooth Capital of the World

    Welcome to TFP!
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    If TFP helped you or saved you money - Become a TFP Supporter! <--Click here
    2012 build and pics, 20k gal gunite, black onyx pebblesheen, OK flagstone, IntellifoVS, cart filter w/Pleatco, IC40 SWG, Solartouch, 5 12'x4' solar panels, HP50HA heat pump, 8mil solar cover, borates, TF-100 test kit, SONOS, Doheny's Discovery Robot, hot tub on bleach

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    Patrick_B's Avatar
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    Re: Greetings from the Shark's Tooth Capital of the World

    Welcome to TFP, glad you decided to join.

    I think I can presume that you've been studying a little in Pool School from what I see. Get more familiar with the kit, read more Pool School, and here in the forum on Chemistry. There is nothing complicated about what we all do, and it works. It isn't about saving money first, but it almost always does. Especially when you eliminate the Pool $store Tango.

    Get the Cya down, and start following our guidelines. Learn the testing and get it solid, again pretty easy stuff. Learn to trust those results, understand them, and act accordingly to change your parameters. After that, problem solved. Your paint is NOT the problem, and it will not throw off the balance, nor cause you to get Algae. Proper FC/Cya ratio, and pH are virtually all you will have to worry about in this pool. I promise, it works. Is that how the pool water looks now?

    PS-

    Pool places all over Florida carry bulk Liquid Chlorine (Bleach) and your pool won't need that much as part of a regular maintenance routine. That makes it even easier, so start looking for one near you unless you already know. So, so many of us wish we had that option.
    TFP Moderator
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    Mod Squad kimkats's Avatar
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    Re: Greetings from the Shark's Tooth Capital of the World

    FLORIDA in the house! That IS Frankenstein! I DO understand why you painted.........why even take the chance with $$$$$ plaster if your "fixes" did not work???

    I think you are ready to make a thread over in "just getting started". I have some ideas how to make your pool life easier AND would LOVE to hear how your fixed the slab with that stuff. We love stores and pictures to go along with them. You never know when it might help someone else.

    Kim
    TFP Moderator 33x52 round AG 25,600 gals Sand Filter 1.5hp Pump - 2 Speed, SLAM, Pool School, Recommended Levels, Recommended Chemicals, Pool Math, Chlorine/CYA Chart, TF-100 Test Kit

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    VeniceFL's Avatar
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    Re: Greetings from the Shark's Tooth Capital of the World

    Thank you for the welcome. I did look all over the site last year before beginning my project. I thought it might be an interesting project to share.

    Now that I am committed to maintain the pool per the site, I am having the most trouble with water quality that I have had in 16 years, HOWEVER, I do not blame the site or TFP process. I blame the fact that my 'co-pool maintainer', per advise from the local chaps about 2 months ago, came home with 6 bags of shock and between that and tabs, our CYA is off the charts. For all the years we have had it, we always used stright liquid chlorine for algae blooms and had no issues. I put CYA in when we filled it last year and was getting readings in the 60s then, so I kinda overdosed to begin with and now we are gone.... actually using the 50% tap water method, it looks like about 150ppm. Knowing the things we learned here, everything we are experiencing makes sense, so just need to drain and replace. Unfortunately, we are on a well, and it has been very dry in SW Fla for the past few months. My well can do 6000 gallons without going dry, I know from last years project, it is just very slow (5GPM) and I am just leery with the recent dry spell, not to mention a pump that is still going strong after 17+ yrs. We'll probably go for 1/4 refill (+/- 3000 gal) this week, and check levels, repeating as necessary in a couple weeks. As long as we can get it into double digits and begin to measure the FC ratios with more certainty in the next month, we can wait for rains to come in summer and do more drains and rains..supplemented with well fills, until we get to the desired level. Goal is to get CYA down by early July. Seems reasonable unless I want to temp fates with all at once, and I do not want a dry well or burnt motor. It cost $450 for 6000 gallons when we filled it last year.
    Thanks again for the welcome!

    Cheers!
    14x28 [12,000 Gal.] IG, Painted Gunite/Marcite (long story...temporary finish, painted June 2016), Hayward C-900 filter, Hayward 1.5 HP pump
    Built 1984, never re-plastered...yet. Giving up on Leslies, using K-2006, solar heater, well water

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    Patrick_B's Avatar
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    Re: Greetings from the Shark's Tooth Capital of the World

    Man, I picture more rain that that anywhere FL. I guess you're rural and no City water? Bummer, because it would be so much better to see you come down way before then. Killing bad Algae is tough at 150 Cya, so watch closely to prevent a bloom. Sure you know, just thinking out loud. Good luck, and keep us posted.
    TFP Moderator
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    ABC's Of Pool Chemistry, Test Kits, SLAM Your Pool
    28K Gal IG FreeForm, CLI Quartz, Pentair 36"SF & VS Pump, Dolphin M5, Rheem

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    Mod Squad kimkats's Avatar
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    Re: Greetings from the Shark's Tooth Capital of the World

    You have a very solid plan. Do what you can, when you can to get that CYA down. Just make sure to keep the FC where it needs to be to keep the green monster away!

    We are in a dry spell up here as well. We need a good gully washer to fill our pond back up for the otters. Right now it is only half full.

    Kim
    TFP Moderator 33x52 round AG 25,600 gals Sand Filter 1.5hp Pump - 2 Speed, SLAM, Pool School, Recommended Levels, Recommended Chemicals, Pool Math, Chlorine/CYA Chart, TF-100 Test Kit

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    VeniceFL's Avatar
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    Re: Greetings from the Shark's Tooth Capital of the World

    Thank you both for your comments. We are resolved to have higher Free Chlorine levels for the next few months until our plan comes to fruition. In the meantime, it has been tricky keeping algae down as we get used to the new testing and Liq. Chlorine regime. (and I am putting a entire new bucket of puck at the street with a sign saying FREE!) I think an interim measure to alleviate algae might be to reduce phosphates. Based on info elsewhere here, was not worried about the high phosphate (per LPS usually +/-100 and I do not test for it) but now, I am thinking that if our goal is to reduce CYA by July using combination of drains and well (and rain if it ever starts again) fills, then it may be prudent to create a less hospitable environment for algae until then and get rid of the phosphates.

    What is most likely to happen is that one day I will come home and decide that $450 for a 6000 gallon water replacement is just fine. lol
    14x28 [12,000 Gal.] IG, Painted Gunite/Marcite (long story...temporary finish, painted June 2016), Hayward C-900 filter, Hayward 1.5 HP pump
    Built 1984, never re-plastered...yet. Giving up on Leslies, using K-2006, solar heater, well water

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    Mod Squad kimkats's Avatar
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    Re: Greetings from the Shark's Tooth Capital of the World

    One day it will all come together and you will have a Trouble Free pool! Right now you have a little extra work pool.



    Kim
    TFP Moderator 33x52 round AG 25,600 gals Sand Filter 1.5hp Pump - 2 Speed, SLAM, Pool School, Recommended Levels, Recommended Chemicals, Pool Math, Chlorine/CYA Chart, TF-100 Test Kit

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