# Thread: New Guy

1. ## New Guy

Been following Phyllis's thread. Think I'm getting close?

40x20 Splash above ground, 29,000 gallons. K2006 Test Kit. Pumping 24/7
Been hammering it with chlorox and vacuuming to waste...volume of algae coming out almost gone. Pool starting to get a little bluish and can almost see second step. We're on the water with lots of wind.

at 0840 this AM
FC = 18
CC = 0
TC = Don't see how to do this with the K2006
pH = 7.4
T/A = 230
CH = Gave up after 60 drops!
CYA = 40
Temp = 74

Am I on the right track? Keep the FC high and vac to waste until no green and have patience? (And stay out of the pool store)

Thanks! Steve

2. ## Re: New Guy

have you read pool school also? you can find how to do TC in there.
pool-school/swimming_pool_definitions_abbreviations
also, there is a quicker way to do the CH test that is less precise but helps you get a picture of what's in there without using so much reagent (mine ended up being 625). let me try to find that post and I will edit this one with the link.
ok, here is the quote from waterbear:
Originally Posted by waterbear
with high CH you can do the test this way--10 ml water sample, 10 drops of first reagent, 3 drops of indicator, and then when you titrate each drop of titrant is 25 ppm CH instead of 10 ppm. You lose some precision but when you have very high calcium like yours it really does not matter that much if your CH is 620, 625, or 630 ppm (or even 600 or 650!)
the post can be seen in this thread: liquid-chlorine-vs-swg-and-skin-irritation-t11950.html

3. ## Re: New Guy

There is no test for TC. It's just FC + CC. So, FC=18, CC=0, TC=18.

Yep, you've got the right idea. The guidelines we use to determine if you're through shocking yet is :
(1) Overnight FC loss test is 1 ppm or less,
(2) CC 0.5 or less
(3) Water is clear and sparkly

After you get through shocking we can address your high TA if needed and once you figure out your CH we can advise you on how to manage the water to prevent calcium scaling. You're on the right track though.

4. ## Re: New Guy

Originally Posted by reebok
have you read pool school also? you can find how to do TC in there.
pool-school/swimming_pool_definitions_abbreviations
also, there is a quicker way to do the CH test that is less precise but helps you get a picture of what's in there without using so much reagent (mine ended up being 625). let me try to find that post and I will edit this one with the link.
ok, here is the quote from waterbear:
Originally Posted by waterbear
with high CH you can do the test this way--10 ml water sample, 10 drops of first reagent, 3 drops of indicator, and then when you titrate each drop of titrant is 25 ppm CH instead of 10 ppm. You lose some precision but when you have very high calcium like yours it really does not matter that much if your CH is 620, 625, or 630 ppm (or even 600 or 650!)
the post can be seen in this thread: liquid-chlorine-vs-swg-and-skin-irritation-t11950.html
Thanks! I had done the school and was going back to see about TC (I'm a geezer and forgot) .

5. ## Re: New Guy

Steve, welcome to TFP!!

Sounds like you're on the right track Thanks for posting the test #s One thing you're looking for is cl loss overnight - do you have the fc from last night?

TC is simply fc + cc so, your tc = 18 (18fc + 0cc)

With the CH test, you can fill the tester to 10 ml add 10 drops of the buffer and use 3 drops of the purple indicator then each drop of the R0012 will equal 25 ppm instead of 10

6. ## Re: New Guy

Didn't do an overnight because I was still vacing green stuff. I think I've almost got it all so will do so tonight. My guess is I lost about 2ppm since I used the Pool Calculator to get it to about 20ppm but I did not check it after adding the chlorine. We are right on the water (Sound on the Outer Banks) and have had a lot of wind.

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