Question about salt startup

Jedisparky

0
Silver Supporter
Mar 9, 2017
141
L.A. CA
Pool Size
21000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
So I added my salt about 450 pounds which is a little less than what the chart said. so I'm about 4 hours in with the pump and spa turning to get everything mixed very well before I turn on the salt generator, I plan on waiting 24 hours for that I plan on waiting 24 hours for that.
But here's my question: before I put the salt in, my water was crystal clear light blue and now it's more of an aquamarine blue. Still fairly clear just a different color water. Is this normal? Will I eventually get my light crystal clear blue water back once the generator gets going and I bring my chemicals all in the line?

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Ok, thanks. I really wasn't looking for one either it was just very noticeable. I'll check back in a in a day or so.

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Ok looking better today. Here are my measurements:

PH-7.5
FC-0
CYA-70
ALK-70
CH-320
Salt- 4400

So.....weird. I added 80# of salt less than what was recommended and my salt count seems high. Too high? Haven't started the IC60 yet. Curious on your opinion Jim. Thanks in advance.

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Jed,

All pools have salt in them, so more than others.. You should have tested the salt level in the pool before you added any.

But, 4400 is not all that high and will work fine. The IC60 will not shut off for high salt..

I find that when the salt level gets in that range I can taste it for the first minute or so when I first get in the pool. After that the taste seems to go away.

I say fire it up.....

*** Why does your signature say IC40?

Jim R.

edit... If the 4400 is from the SWCG itself, that reading is +/- 500 ppm
 
Ooops, my bad. It's IC40. I tested my salt 3 times before and it turns brick red after 2 drops which puts it at 400 ppm. Did the pool math and got 14 bags, put in 12. Oh well, as long as I'm not going to damage anything. Guess we'll run it a while and sew what happens. Thx

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Do your salt measurements in another few days. Salt water, especially water that is fully saturated to equilibrium levels from having solid salt dissolved in it, is very dense and does not mix well with fresh water. I have seen posts where it can take several days before the salt water is fully homogenized. Depending on how and where you sample water from, you could have gotten water with higher salinity. Just wait a few days and retest.
 
So 24 hrs later: Ran pump @ 2400 rpm's with the IC40 running along all night. Pool temp 68f. Also running spillway to mix Spa.

FC 2.5
PH 8.0
CYA 70-75 (it's overcast today hard to tell exactly, but close enough)
ALK 70
CH 320
Salt 4200

I was running the IC40 @ 80% all night but @ FC only 2.5 I kicked it up to 100% to see where we're at tomorrow.

Seems on track. Just dialing it in.

Also can I just say how much I love the Taylor SpeedStir! ?


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Also my standard run time will be Pool running @ 2200 rpm's for 10 hrs a day (full sun all day) with Spa spill over for 3 of those hrs.

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Jed,

For reference, I run my Intelliflo at 1,200 RPM to generate chlorine. Only uses about 170 watts.. The speed does not affect the amount of chlorine generated..

One of the things you will need to watch is your pH.. the more you run your spillover the more aeration you get, the higher the pH will try to go.

SWCG's are made to maintain an FC level.. If your FC was zero when you stated it will take a few days to come up to what you want.

It would have been better to bring up the FC using bleach and that would take the work off the SWCG..

Thanks for the update,

Jim R.
 
Also my standard run time will be Pool running @ 2200 rpm's for 10 hrs a day (full sun all day) with Spa spill over for 3 of those hrs.

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10 hrs * (22oz / 24 hrs) = 9 oz Cl2 gas (SWG runs at 100% output)

9 oz in 21,000 gallons -> 3.2ppm FC per day

That will cover the normal loss rate of chlorine in a day (typical is 2-4ppm per day loss). Your loss rate may increase with temperature and greater UV exposure.

You'd be better off dosing your pool with bleach to get it to the correct FC level rather than slowly bringing it up with the SWG. SWG's are good at maintaining chlorine levels, they are not well suited for adjusting them by large amounts. Your FC/CYA ratio is currently too low and you can cause an algae bloom by waiting. Use bleach now and then see where the SWG goes.
 
well I just happen to be stopping at the store to pick up bleach that I stole for my wife a week ago I guess I'll pick up a little extra lol!

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Joy, thanks for the math! Not my strong point. If I use the pool math calculator to get from 2.5 to 6 using Clorox bleach, I'll need a little over 1 gal. with Clorox being 6% weight. Would you go ahead and dump a gallon, or should I start with 1/2 gal at a time?

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Most Clorox you find in the supermarket (assuming it's fresh, check the date code) is 8.25% and not a true gallon but sold in 121oz bottles. But yes, I suspect you'll need about a gallon or so. Costco usually sells 3-packs for around $10, just use the remaining bleach in the laundry.

Add it all at once by pouring it slowly over one of the deep end return jets and then brush the pool to help it mix. There is no risk in adding a little too much FC. After brushing, wait 30mins and retest.
 
BTW re-reading my comical comment I mistyped (of course) not "I stole FOR my wife" should have said " I stole FROM my wife". Yikes, one word can make you look really bad lol.

Anyway Jim, running @ that speed for you do you run a vacuum system? Unless I'm setting things up wrong Vac wouldn't be powerful enough at that speed. I'm still figuring out that setting as well. Looks like I'll settle on 2500 rpm for 2 hrs a day to keep it clean.

Crazy amount of variables to dial in a pool, but I'm up to the challenge thanks to TFP. I don't know how anyone would figure all this stuff out solo.

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