Water not clearing and FC at 0

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Here is what it would take to get you to SLAM level to begin with assuming a CYA of 40. Your first test showed CYA ~30 and we know you added more after that test. That means to SLAM you must bring your pool to 16ppm and keep it there for the duration until all 3 criteria are met.

You need to retest the CYA as that is what determines your FC level for both SLAM and every day maintenance.

We know you must have had significant chlorine levels for some time, or your water would not have cleared. Did your tests show FC at any point? If not, it's either testing error or the reagents have gone bad.


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Ok....do this- go in the laundry room and pour a few teaspoons of bleach into a cup. Add some water. Use this to fill your test vial up 10 cc, and put in one heaping blue plastic spoonful of the FAS-DPD powder. Does it turn pink??

I'm not looking for an accurate test, I'm just looking for a response in color.

Yippee :flower:
 
I would be testing and adding chlorine once an hour. Maybe a little longer, but way more than twice a day. At this point, maybe wait until the weekend, and go at it.

The problem with not doing it often enough is the chlorine gets eaten up, and you basically just waste the chlorine.

Also, try testing right after you add, and you should see some FC. Then test in a hour, and see if any is left.

And how much chlorine are you adding? What percentage is the chlorine/bleach?
 
I wonder if they have ammonia? Only other thing I can think of that would eat the chlorine quick.

How are you testing the CYA? With strips or the TF-100?

Are you holding the vial at waist level, with your back to full sun?
Is it cloudy or clear in the vial?
 
Randytsuch is right, test 15 minutes after adding the chlorine and see how it looks. Does it raise your FC up to the desired level before it drops down to zero?

Keep the pump running after you add chlorine so it mixes up well.
 
Tmeister, before performing the "test" steps I'm going to post, can you please do the following and post back results/responses:

1. Put in the dose of bleach/chlorine to get to your slam level. Tell us how much you're putting in.

2. Wait 10 minutes. Start the test.

3. When you add the DPD poder, does the sample turn pinK?

4. Add the r0871 drops and swirl after each, counting drops. Report # of drops and confirm if you were using 10 mil marker or 25 mil marker.

5. Test again 1 hr later and report reading.

By ammonia, Bjoris is referring to an occasional phenom, usually only seen when a pool goes swampy over winter and pretty rare even then, whereby the FC zeros out and subsequent bacteria converts CYA to ammonia. The ammonia then fights/consumes the chlorine.

The follow quote are the steps to remedy, but lets first make sure your test stuff is operative ;)

Diagnosing:
1. Test CYA level and record result
2. With pump running, dose FC to Shock (SLAM) per level per Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart, then retest FC after 10 minutes. If FC level drops by more than 50%, then proceed with treatment for ammonia.

Treatment for Ammonia:
1. Begin a SLAM and dose FC up to SLAM level. Do not add additional CYA at this point.
2. Retest FC at 10-minute intervals.
a. If FC loss is greater than 50%, add FC to bring back up to SLAM level and continue retesting FC @ 10-minute intervals.
b. IF FC loss is 50% or less, add FC to bring back up to SLAM level. Go to Step 3.
3. If CYA is below 30 ppm, add enough CYA to bring level up to 30 ppm.
4. Continue SLAM as directed in the SLAM article until the SLAM Criteria of Done are met. Test as directed in the SLAM article - no longer need to test FC at 10 minute increments at this point.
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TMeister said:
Yes, it turned pink.
Click to expand...

Another possibility is that your pool's FC is so high, it bleaches out the DPD powder. The FC would have to be very high for this to happen.

When testing the pool water, does the DPD powder turn pink momentarily, and then go clear? If so, try adding several more spoonfuls of the powder until it stays pink, then do your test. If this is your situation, you may want to test using a very small water sample and corresponding multiplier, so you don't have to add as many drops of reagent. Another option would be to mix 1/4 pool water with 3/4 distilled water, and test that, then multiply the result by 4.
 
This thread is quickly running off the rails. OP has a testing error. Please don't suggest more complicated, unrelated tests when we don't have the very basic ones working properly

Now, Tmeister, why do you think you have no chlorine when your FAS/DPD powder turned the pool water pink? Let's go forward from there.
 
duraleigh said:
This thread is quickly running off the rails. OP has a testing error. Please don't suggest more complicated, unrelated tests when we don't have the very basic ones working properly

Now, Tmeister, why do you think you have no chlorine when your FAS/DPD powder turned the pool water pink? Let's go forward from there.
Click to expand...

I think what turned pink was yippy's suggestion to add a few drops of bleach to a cup of tap water and test that.


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I have just ordered some new testing chems and am awaiting delivery. I will then run a full series of new tests when they arrive and I will post back.

At present, I am still showing 0 FC and 0 CYA.

I'll hold off doing anything until the chems arrive tomorrow or Thursday.

Thank you all sincerely for your help to date. I appreciate it massively.
 
My reagents from last year are still fine. They've been kept indoors. If anything turned pink your reagents also appear to be fine. Please reread the instructions for the FC and CC testing and follow them to the letter.


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randytsuch said:
Is there a local pool store?
They might test your water for you. Fill up an empty water bottle and take it to them.
Click to expand...
That's what I was thinking. At least to test your CYA. Without knowing that it's a **** shoot on how much bleach to add. OP can you tell us exactly how you are performing your CYA and FC tests? And throw those strips away. You don't ever want to use those again.

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^Im afraid pool store readings will just further confuse the issue, since they're every bit as inaccurate as guess strips most times.

Going forward, if Tmeister could just recheck the testing steps and report exactly what happens when he tests step by step as we asked, we might be able to confirm or dismiss any questions about the testing method ;)

Please report exactly what steps you take, what happens (eg "add dpd powder, sample does not turn pink OR "water in cya tube is clear and can see black dot easily" etc), and ALL TFP readings to gve us a baseline, like this:

FC
CC
PH
TA
CH
CYA

Note that it is "possible" that you are testing correctly and there is another explanation for results. But since this testing skill is the foundation of your "trouble free" future, and since reagents rarely spoil, please help us help you with this so we know you've got it down and w can give you the right advice to go forward. ;)
 
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