Green pool, excessive chlorine

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mitcheal

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Jul 28, 2011
16
14000 gallon above ground pool. On advice of pool place, added 3 gallons of chlorine, 2lbs algeacide. Checked next morning and fc was down to 5. Added to get it to 5. Followed this idea for 3 days. Water is still green. Pool place said to add 10 gallons of chlorine. Added this morning, and still green. Per pool place, added 4 lbs of dry chlorine. Fc is at 50. Cya is 60 and ph is 7.4. Any ideas?

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My first suggestion is to stop going to the pool store. Their only response it to sell you something.

I will tell you, it didn't turn green overnight and it will take time to clear. But, we can teach you how to get it sparkling and keep it that was for a lot less money than the pool store.

Not much credence is given to pool store testing around here. While you would think that a "professional" would be the best, unfortunately in most cases it is quite the opposite. Between employees who blindly trust the word of chemical sales representatives and high school kids working in the pool store for the summer you end up with poor results from their testing. But, what can you do?? We base our pool care system on accurate testing and only adding what the pool needs, when it needs it. To do that you need your own accurate test kit. Order a TF100 and at least include the XL option. That will give you what you need while you are clearing the pool, and probably enough reagents for a couple of years normal use.

While you wait for it to get delivered, you have a homework reading assignment. Start with ABCs of Water Chemistry and Turning Your Green Swamp Back into a Sparkling Oasis
 
I would be willing to bet your FC is not 50 ppm, pool stores don't typically use a test capable of measuring that high. All the more reason to only rely on your own testing.

Do you remember what type of dry algaecide did you add?
 
Those numbers are based on my tests, with a kit similar to what was suggested. Suncoast all in one algeacide.

I will say, i thought i had removed all the leaves the day before i started down this road... this afternoon, i wanted to verify no more leaves, and found what i would consider to be a decent amount. maybe one full large mouth leaf net worth. so i spent the better part of an hour scooping the net on the bottom until i consistently pulled little to no leaves back.

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Ok, sorry you didn't make it sound like you were testing your own water. Good news is that the algaecide is a polyquat 60, bad news is that it is a preventative measure and won't help clear your water.

What kind of dry chlorine did you add?

Did you test for CC when you did your FC test? Also, don't bother with your pH test, it is not accurate above an FC of 10. Right now you don't want to add any more chlorine, you are well above SLAM level. Just keep brushing trying to remove any debris on the bottom. Time is what the chlorine needs to do its job.
 
You add more chlorine when it drops below your SLAM level, which is dependent on your CYA level. Speaking of your CYA level, it will be about 20 ppm higher since adding that 4 lbs of dichlor shock...

To clear the water you can't just raise your chlorine level, you have to keep it at an appropriate level until all the algae is dead. This process is called SLAM. This stands for Shock Level And Maintain, and the instructions (as well as a link to finding your proper SLAM FC level) can be found here: Pool School - SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain

Follow those instructions, keep clear of the pool store, and your water will clear up. Also, please stick to liquid chlorine, dichlor shock is only going to cause more problems.
 
mitcheal said:
14000 gallon above ground pool. On advice of pool place, added 3 gallons of chlorine, 2lbs algeacide. Checked next morning and fc was down to 5. Added to get it to 5. Followed this idea for 3 days. Water is still green. Pool place said to add 10 gallons of chlorine. Added this morning, and still green. Per pool place, added 4 lbs of dry chlorine. Fc is at 50. Cya is 60 and ph is 7.4. Any ideas?

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Click to expand...
Welcome to TFP!

Now that the pool $tore has your CYA at 80ppm, you will need to maintain a FC of 32ppm until you can pass all three SLAM endpoint criteria:
1) Pool is clear of all algae, water is clear.
2) Your CC's are at 0.5ppm or less.
3) You pass the OCLT.

https://www.troublefreepool.com/content/125-slam-shock-level-and-maintain-shockingl

https://www.troublefreepool.com/content/136-perform-the-overnight-fc-chlorine-loss-test-oclt

https://www.troublefreepool.com/content/128-chlorine-cya-chart-slam-shock
 
We need to take a deep breath here and step back. I think you may be missing a few key points.

First, no more solid chlorine products. The contain stuff you don't want, especially Trichlor and Dichlor (which you used). The both raise your CYA. That 4 pounds of Dichlor "dry shock" you used will add 17 to your CYA in a 14,000 gallon pool.

Did you test the CYA or the pool store? Their tests are usually wrong with the CYA test being the worst.

At this point I am going to assume your CYA is above 70, which is generally too high to reasonably beat back a green pool.

I really recommend you do at least a 50% water exchange to get the CYA down to a reasonable level before you continue forward with the SLAM.
 

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Cya is at 16 After adding the dry chlorine. I tested it myself. So based on the charts listed above , my chlorine shock level should be 24. I will test everything again tonight to verify.

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mitcheal said:
Cya is at 16 After adding the dry chlorine. I tested it myself. So based on the charts listed above , my chlorine shock level should be 24. I will test everything again tonight to verify.

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Click to expand...
No test kit we recommend can test CYA to the level of 16. Did you do the same test ot get the 60 before?

What you are you using to test?
 
I'll update my profile tonight. Pool looking much better. Still slightly green and cloudy. Cya at 58 and fc at 33. Expecting to have to add chlorine in the morning to keep it at 24

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Mitchell, CYA tests are all in... there is no "58" reading. Your CYA (if accurate) needs to be considered 60. Anything over 50 is 60.

Can you tell us which test kit you are using? Or perhaps just take a picture of it and post it so we can see what it tests for?

Yip :flower:
 
If you have a floater with hockey puck sized chlorine tablets in the pool, please do not refill this. Those pucks increase CYA also.

You did a great job getting on this website and doing the testing yourself. You're off to a great start! I'm glad water is improving. Keep answering questions and asking them!
 
Green water gone, now cloudy

I fought green algea, and seem to have won. My chlorine levels overnight are staying consistent. Water is cloudy though, and when cleaning the filter i get a loght brown color. Im assuming dead algea. Is this correct? Going on about 3 days of cloudy, each day i can see ever slightly deeper into the water. I notices my ph is low, 7.0 to 7.2. And my total alkinity is not turning red no matter how many drops i add. Continue the filtering course?

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Re: Green water gone, now cloudy

At this point it may be best to post a full set of test numbers from your TF-100 (or Taylor K-2006). If your FC is still elevated from the SLAM, that could be one reason why some tests are a little "off". We also need to see if that pH is truly getting low as that could be a problem as well (corrosion).

In general terms though for the cloudiness, it could still be a sign that your filter is trying to remove the dead algae. Your signature is not yet loaded with your pool equipment, so that makes evaluation a little difficult. You'll want to load your pool info soon too. :grin:

Lastly, remember that when battling algae via TFP, the "SLAM" (link below) is not complete until you pass all 3 SLAM criteria. Until that time - maintain the SLAM/shock FC level. If you have any doubt about that or the SLAM process itself, just let us know.
 

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