small white particles that turns the pool miky?!

[helenebt]

I am renting a house w/ a pool. I've been here through the first summer and didn't have any problems. Beginning of the season I go to get my water tested and do all the steps I am told to do. Removed phosphate, rebalanced alkalinity by adding the amount they told me of sodium bicarbonate, kwik striped the filter. I was told that by de-phosphating the pool will turn cloudy white and that it was normal. So I didn't worry so much when the next day the pool with milky I used the clarifying tablets that came with it but it didn't improve. Now it's been 3 weeks and the pool is just as milky as it was before. I wish I not done all this as it was perfect before, pretty diamond clear water and now.. there are these tiny (about a mm) white particles in the water which I am assuming is making the water cloudy.
Don't know what to do next.. was thinking about flocking but I've read so much bad about it that I am not sure I should keep adding stuff to this pool and just wait and keep filtering and hopefully things will get better? though it has not change one bit in 3 weeks.

 

[JasonLion]

Welcome to TFP!

This is one of the reasons we don't recommend removing phosphates.

I would try some more clarifier. If you had a high phosphate level, there might have been too much for the first does of clarifier to clear out.

 

[helenebt]

Welcome to TFP!

This is one of the reasons we don't recommend removing phosphates.

I would try some more clarifier. If you had a high phosphate level, there might have been too much for the first does of clarifier to clear out.

Thanks

I thought removing phosphates was an essential part of making sure you don't end up w/ algae?
Is there a clarifier you would recommend, I used the seaklear phosphate remover and used the only 2 little clarifying tablets that came with it. Do they sell only the tablets? and what will it do the particles, dissolve them away?

 

[frustratedpoolmom]

Phosphates are irrelevant if you maintain proper FC levels.

Can you post a full set of test results?

 

[JasonLion]

Clarifier is easy to find in pool stores. There are many different brands. It shouldn't matter which one you get.'

Removing phosphates is one way to reduce the chances of getting algae, but it can be expensive and messy and doesn't always work. It is usually simpler and less expensive to maintain proper chlorine levels. Which you ought to be doing any way. Proper chlorine levels will keep algae away regardless of your phosphate level.

 

[helenebt]

Clarifier is easy to find in pool stores. There are many different brands. It shouldn't matter which one you get.'

Removing phosphates is one way to reduce the chances of getting algae, but it can be expensive and messy and doesn't always work. It is usually simpler and less expensive to maintain proper chlorine levels. Which you ought to be doing any way. Proper chlorine levels will keep algae away regardless of your phosphate level.

chlorine levels are fine. I haven't had a problem with that. overall it just sounds like if you start adjusting something then it never ends... if something is not broken (pool was cristal clear when I started) then don't fix it.

 

[helenebt]

Thank you. I think I'll clarify then and go from there. This is a really great board btw. So many post and so much information. I am going to keep on reading.

 

[reebok]

your version (pool store version) of proper chlorine levels isn't the right version to keep algae away. <brag>I just figured out that in the last 40 days I've added 5.88 gallons of chlorine for a total of $7.06 and I know I won't get algae because I have good filtration, good circulation, brushing and proper chlorine levels based on the chlorine/cya chart located in pool school (see link in upper right of every page). </brag> phos-free is a lot more than that, not to mention the potential problems it causes which you are experiencing. I recommend the method of pool care advocated here because my pool was also broke before I found this site, and is now fixed by spending 3-5 minutes a day on it. keep reading and start with pool school and choosing which good test kit to get (also in pool school). I think you'll be happier (and richer!) than ever before.

 

[frustratedpoolmom]

chlorine levels are fine. I haven't had a problem with that. overall it just sounds like if you start adjusting something then it never ends... if something is not broken (pool was cristal clear when I started) then don't fix it.

You can have clear water and have problems. Test numbers reveal more than just the color of the water. What you have been told by the pool store as "fine" may not be at all. The fact that your water is cloudy, speaks of chlorination issues.

 

[helenebt]

your version (pool store version) of proper chlorine levels isn't the right version to keep algae away. <brag>I just figured out that in the last 40 days I've added 5.88 gallons of chlorine for a total of $7.06 and I know I won't get algae because I have good filtration, good circulation, brushing and proper chlorine levels based on the chlorine/cya chart located in pool school (see link in upper right of every page). </brag> phos-free is a lot more than that, not to mention the potential problems it causes which you are experiencing. I recommend the method of pool care advocated here because my pool was also broke before I found this site, and is now fixed by spending 3-5 minutes a day on it. keep reading and start with pool school and choosing which good test kit to get (also in pool school). I think you'll be happier (and richer!) than ever before.

yeap. well i've always figured out that the place I go too (where they test your water for free and then make recommendations based on their findings using their products) is another way of selling you their stuff (though I actually never did, and would get similar product online). I should have stuck with that overall knowledge that sadly applies to more businesses than just the pool business. I'll most certainly keep on getting informed here and work with the info I'll get.

This site is a pool of knowledge!

 

[helenebt]

chlorine levels are fine. I haven't had a problem with that. overall it just sounds like if you start adjusting something then it never ends... if something is not broken (pool was cristal clear when I started) then don't fix it.

You can have clear water and have problems. Test numbers reveal more than just the color of the water. What you have been told by the pool store as "fine" may not be at all. The fact that your water is cloudy, speaks of chlorination issues.

I am attaching the test result in the file.[attachment=0:fykcnozc]pooltestresult.jpg[/attachment:fykcnozc]

 

[Casey]

If those are your test results, your CYA is TOO high at 151 and your chlorine level is too low at 6.5.

Have you thought about ordering a good test kit and leaving the pool store in the dust? Because that's the only way you're ever gonna truely know your pool and what it needs. I can almost hear the water crying out for a reliable test kit.

Okay, maybe I can't but I think I can!

 

[helenebt]

If those are your test results, your CYA is TOO high at 151 and your chlorine level is too low at 6.5.

Have you thought about ordering a good test kit and leaving the pool store in the dust? Because that's the only way you're ever gonna truely know your pool and what it needs. I can almost hear the water crying out for a reliable test kit.

Okay, maybe I can't but I think I can!

Well, the thing is as I've mentioned I am just renting this house (w/ a pool) and my lease expires in 10 months. being in Seattle we don't get a long pool season and I've already spent so much money on this I don't think I want to spend more on a test kit that I would leave behind..
I just want it working for the next 2 months and then winterize and be done till I move out. I doubt I will find another house w/ a pool in the area (the percentage of this happening is near zero) and if I end up buying a house I might get a pool (a lot of "if" and "maybes") but I think I would go w/ the salt water pool anyways which might be an entirely different beast. :blah:

 

[helenebt]

here's the pool info, sorry I didn't have that in my signature before.
15,000 IG fiberglass sand filter
I am in the Seattle area.

 

[frustratedpoolmom]

I understand now....2 months will be gone before we know it, right

Your numbers are ok except for the CYA/Chlorine.

Okay the key here for you if you choose not to lower the CYA level is that with the CYA being that high you need to run the FC much higher than you are. Doing that will prevent the cloudy water.

http://www.troublefreepool.com/chlorine-cya-chart-t2346.html

Shock level for you is 40% of your CYA level
Your Target FC (the amount of liquid chlorine you need add to reach your target) is 11.5% of your CYA
And your minimum, is 7.5% of your CYA. These numbers are from Chem Geeks chart, link above. I'm not sure if I did the math correctly:

12 for your Minimum
17 for your Target
60 for your shock level.

That's a lot of chlorine. Honestly, I don't know if reaching shock is even doable, and if you are seeing cloudy water or using more than 2-4 ppm of chlorine each day, or if your FC isn't holding overnight, then I think shocking is called for in your situation. I'm not sure if you have to hit 60 or if it's even practical. It might be cheaper to replace water. I'm also not sure if you just start increasing the FC to about 17 every day for awhile if that will take care of the cloudiness, or if shocking is essential.

You have to decide if you want to put extraordinary amounts of chlorine in, or drain down 1 foot at a time and replace with fresh water until the CYA gets more reasonable - like 70 or less. The lower the CYA the lower the required chlorine levels - refer to the chart.

Whatever you decide, stick to bleach/liquid chlorine and don't use any more trichlor tablets or Dichlor powder shock. Cal-hypo would be okay, since you have a fiberglass pool that can come up a bit.

Hope this helps.

 

[helenebt]

I understand now....2 months will be gone before we know it, right

Your numbers are ok except for the CYA/Chlorine.

Okay the key here for you if you choose not to lower the CYA level is that with the CYA being that high you need to run the FC much higher than you are. Doing that will prevent the cloudy water.

http://www.troublefreepool.com/chlorine-cya-chart-t2346.html

Shock level for you is 40% of your CYA level
Your Target FC (the amount of liquid chlorine you need add to reach your target) is 11.5% of your CYA
And your minimum, is 7.5% of your CYA. These numbers are from Chem Geeks chart, link above. I'm not sure if I did the math correctly:

12 for your Minimum
17 for your Target
60 for your shock level.

That's a lot of chlorine. Honestly, I don't know if reaching shock is even doable, and if you are seeing cloudy water or using more than 2-4 ppm of chlorine each day, or if your FC isn't holding overnight, then I think shocking is called for in your situation. I'm not sure if you have to hit 60 or if it's even practical. It might be cheaper to replace water. I'm also not sure if you just start increasing the FC to about 17 every day for awhile if that will take care of the cloudiness, or if shocking is essential.

You have to decide if you want to put extraordinary amounts of chlorine in, or drain down 1 foot at a time and replace with fresh water until the CYA gets more reasonable - like 70 or less. The lower the CYA the lower the required chlorine levels - refer to the chart.

Whatever you decide, stick to bleach/liquid chlorine and don't use any more trichlor tablets or Dichlor powder shock. Cal-hypo would be okay, since you have a fiberglass pool that can come up a bit.

Hope this helps.

Wow! yes it does help. though it is a lot of information for me to digest..
So, it sounds that if I drain water (1 foot at a time) and top off and keep on checking CYA until I reached target might be the cheapest yet maybe most predictable way of going about this..
What do I do about the chlorine in the mean time? check levels too each time I had water and rebalance?
You mention liquid chlorine, any generic store bleach? and if I go that route does it mean I forget about the pucks I've been putting in the skimmer?

 

[frustratedpoolmom]

Yes, try your best to maintain the chlorine level so that you don't develop full blown green....I think you could be on the edge of it...

Drain down a foot, refill, recirculate, retest, repeat if necessary/desire to reach about CYA 70 which is certainly more manageable for you. You will probably have to do it 2-3 times, unfortunately.

No more pucks in the skimmer. That's a bad idea anyway, bad for the pool equipment.

I use Wal-mart generic "Great Value" brand bleach. I've used Aldi brand, Target generic too. Avoid Dollar Store or Big Lots. If you have a pool store that sells 12.5% liquid chlorine, sometimes labeled "Pool Shock" for around $3.00 a gallon that is a good price too.

 

[helenebt]

Yes, try your best to maintain the chlorine level so that you don't develop full blown green....I think you could be on the edge of it...

Drain down a foot, refill, recirculate, retest, repeat if necessary/desire to reach about CYA 70 which is certainly more manageable for you. You will probably have to do it 2-3 times, unfortunately.

No more pucks in the skimmer. That's a bad idea anyway, bad for the pool equipment.

I use Wal-mart generic "Great Value" brand bleach. I've used Aldi brand, Target generic too. Avoid Dollar Store or Big Lots. If you have a pool store that sells 12.5% liquid chlorine, sometimes labeled "Pool Shock" for around $3.00 a gallon that is a good price too.

Thank you! yet more great info..
I do have one more question though. Do I want to have my filter set to waste or backwash to empty the pool? and what is the difference?
The calculator here, tells me that I would need to replace 60% of my pool water in order to bring down my CYA to about 70.. that's a lot of water, yiiikes!

 

[frustratedpoolmom]

Yup, it sure is....

Waste probably, I'm not sure if there is much difference (I don't have a sand filter, not real hands-on familiar with their operation, only what I've read on here).

I wouldn't go down more than 1/3 safely at a time. Try that, refill, retest and see where you are at.

 

[JasonLion]

Definitely waste. The waste setting moves the water more quickly. Also, on backwash, all of the water goes through the sand filter backwards. Any dirt in the water being pumped out would go back into the pool as soon as the system was put back to filter mode. Using backwash wouldn't be a huge problem, just not as efficient and messier.