I'm new to having a pool. I just bought a Coleman 18ft metal frame pool last year. My in laws gave me their intex sand filter to go with it. I got it all hooked up right but still struggled with it all last summer. I would shock it twice a week, add clarifyer, and use chlorine tablets. And it was still green. I've also tried hooking up a vacuum to the water hose but it hasn't done any good. I would hook up a good vacuum but the suction part, or I guess it's called a skimmer, doesn't seem to have all that much suction to it. The filter is also telling me it's just above 0 PSI. The part where it filters water back into the pool is running full force, though. I pretty much gave up on the pool last summer and just let it get really bad. I drained it halfway and removed all of the hoses but never properly closed it. Now, I'm trying to open it up for the summer and give it another shot but it is an awfull nasty swamp. I put 4 bags of shock in on day one, it cleared it up but still too cloudy to see the bottom. I tried adding another 2 bags of shock on day two and I still can't see the bottom. I scrubbed the bottom and it just mixed it up and turned it completely green again. The filter has been running for 48 hours straight and doesn't seem to be working. I've backwashed it and made sure no hoses are clogged and also took apart the basket to make sure that wasn't clogged. Somebody please help me fix this I feel so lost!
Green pool and sand filter problems
- Thread starter Mkla216
- Start date
Oh my Mkla....you have been through the wringer with that pool, haven't you?
My first suggestion is to STOP putting ANYthing in that pool without knowing what you're adding and why your pool might need it?
The only way to know what you need is by testing the water yourself. No "Guess Strips" or Pool Store tests can match the accuracy of your own test kit. Who cares for your pool more than you? You have a reason to do it right. I'd suggest buying either the TF-100 or Taylor K-2006 from TFTestkits.net The test kit needs to have the requisite FAS-DPD chlorine test so you'll be able to put the right amount of chlorine in to slay that green beast.
Almost everything you listed (and probably paid too much for) was unnecessary. All your pool needs now is liquid chlorine and lots of it. Everything you added is complicating the issue because it brings in to the water other chemicals and problems.
I would like to ask you to read this: ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry and also this: SLAM Process to get an idea of what you need to do.
Holler back with any more questions and otherwise let me WELCOME you to TroubleFreePools!
Yippee
My first suggestion is to STOP putting ANYthing in that pool without knowing what you're adding and why your pool might need it?
The only way to know what you need is by testing the water yourself. No "Guess Strips" or Pool Store tests can match the accuracy of your own test kit. Who cares for your pool more than you? You have a reason to do it right. I'd suggest buying either the TF-100 or Taylor K-2006 from TFTestkits.net The test kit needs to have the requisite FAS-DPD chlorine test so you'll be able to put the right amount of chlorine in to slay that green beast.
Almost everything you listed (and probably paid too much for) was unnecessary. All your pool needs now is liquid chlorine and lots of it. Everything you added is complicating the issue because it brings in to the water other chemicals and problems.
I would like to ask you to read this: ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry and also this: SLAM Process to get an idea of what you need to do.
Holler back with any more questions and otherwise let me WELCOME you to TroubleFreePools!
Yippee
More random thoughts- Other than your skimmer, do you have any other drains? I'm wondering if you have a valve that's allowing water to go to the pump from a main drain but lessens the "pull" from the Skimmer?
When the pump is turned off, does your pressure gauge go to zero? If not, it is faulty and needs a quick replacement. Easy to do. You can order one at the same place you order test kits from TFTestkits.net
Yippee
When the pump is turned off, does your pressure gauge go to zero? If not, it is faulty and needs a quick replacement. Easy to do. You can order one at the same place you order test kits from TFTestkits.net
Yippee
Thanks for your advice guys. The pool has three hoses. 2 that Connect to the pump (1 to the skimmer and 1 that just hooks up to another hole in the pool) they are both connect with a valve that looks like a T. The other hose of course hooks up to the filter. I read the ABCs but got a little overwhelmed by it lol. How much liquid chlorine should I add? It said something about bleach being used a liquid chlorine.. could I use that?
Is there cheaper alternative to the test kit? I've already poured so much money to this pool I just don't know if I want to spend another $70 on a test kit if there's a possibiltiy it won't work. Would a regular one from Walmart work? Probably a dumb question, I know.
Not a dumb question, it gets asked all the time. The $70 kit is really what you need, it has all the tests to make it work. Will it work - absolutely. It's been proven thousands of times over. Reliable, repeatable testing is the foundation to a clear pool. Most basic tests only test for chlorine and pH. You absolutely need a CYA test as that dictates your required chlorine (FC) levels. Without knowing CYA, you are just guessing.
It's an investment, I promise. The sooner you get it, the sooner the payback begins. This payback will include never having to purchase overpriced "shock" or mysterious clarifier or risky tablets again, not to mention you'll have clear, clean pool water!
Okay I will look into purchasing one. Do you guys think there's a chance my filter is not working properly? Or do you just think I have a broken gauge?
Will any Taylor k 2006 kit work? The reason I ask is because my husband is a manager at Walmart and he gets a 20% discount. They have a Taylor k 2006 kit there. And plus I kinda want to get this pool taken care of asap because it's driving me crazy. Thanks for all your help guys.
Yes, the K 2006 is a "TFP-approved" kit. Tell the hubby to bring one home tonight! With a 20% discount, you might as well ask him to grab plain bleach / liquid chlorine while he's at it.
If you can, you might want to consider ordering the bigger K2006C test kit, if your pool is green and needs a SLAM you will probably run out of the the FAS-DPD and CYA reagents fairly quickly.
There could be something wrong with your plumbing, gauge or filter, but a very common misconception about filters is that they can clear a green pool. Algae reproduces rapidly. Even with a filter operating at peak efficiency, algae will bloom in an un-sanitized pool much faster than any filter can remove it. Right now the most important job of your pump is to circulate the chlorine you add so all areas of the pool are chlorinated. A properly functioning filter will be removing matter in the meantime, but the filter's real glory is once the algae is dead. While you're concentrating on fine-tuning your chemical levels, the filter will get all that dead algae and debris out of your water. You'll likely have to flush it a few times to maintain proper pressure.
In regards to good flow at the return, but weak flow at the skimmer: there's either more suction at the skimmer than you realize, or water has another exit from the pool. If that wasn't the case, it would mean that more water is coming into your pool than is leaving. The pool would be filling.
I think WaLmart also carries pool gauges. Maybe not oil filled but good for a season or two
Okay awesome. Do I just pour all the liquid chlorine/bleach in at once? Also, does the kit come with directions on how to test everything?
Kit does have directions and not here are directly ions in pool school link above. And yes pore bleach in front of return. I float the jug on the water and tip it up to avoid splashes of gen rinse hand and jug off in pool. Then brush around a little to make sure the bleach all mixes in
Please post some pics of the equipment as it is currently hooked up. That way we can make sure there isn't something we could be missing.
As a recent newbie myself, I'll take this a step further than Yippee: until you get the hang of it, don't do anything without running it by the folks here first. You've probably noticed that this is a very active forum. Going step-by-step from this thread won't slow you down much, if at all. (and the crowd here not only loves to see pics, but daily pics will also help you determine progress)
Once you get that kit, run the tests and post the results in a format like this:
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Free Chlorine (FC), pH and CYA (cyanuric acid) are the most important in the early stages of the SLAM process. You'll want to balance the pH before taking FC to the high levels.
Also calculate and post the volume of your pool. This online tool helps you do that, as well as determine the qty of chems to add to reach your goals: https://www.troublefreepool.com/calc.html
Okay I will post pics. Can you do that on the mobile version? I don't see an option to post pics. Thank you all for being patient with me. I'm pool stupid lol.
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My husband is convinced taking a test to the store will work just as good. What should I tell him the difference is between the k 2006 and taking sample to test at the store.
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My husband is convinced taking a test to the store will work just as good. What should I tell him the difference is between the k 2006 and taking sample to test at the store.
Tell him this way... "The $tore is there to sell you something. How much do you think they care about your pool in comparison to you?" When you do the tests, you are sure to clean and care for the testing equipment. They don't take the time. The other good one is to take a sample of your water to three different pool $tores. You will get three different answers. Or take that same sample to the same $tore in the morning and the afternoon, you will get different answers.
If nothing else it gives you answers in 5 min. If slamming is required you need this info and not running back and forth to the pool store every hour for updat d tests