So we thought it'd be fun to buy a new to us house with an existing pool. I've been reading through the pool school pages, have a TF-100 test kit, and think I have an idea on which direction to go. The pool water is clear, but there looks like there is some darker film growing on the walls. The filter pressure indicates it is still in the "clean" zone. More details on pool in signature.
Test results:
Water Temp = 65F
FC = 2
pH = 8.2
TA = 160
CH = 200
CYA = 30
Salt = 6600 (I think this is not correct, as the SWG controller thinks the salt level is low)
CC = 0
From reading thru Pool School, it seems as though my first steps are to:
1. Drop pH to 7.2 with acid, then aerate to get the TA down to 70. May require repeating to achieve this... Then shoot for a pH of 7.6.
2. Add bleach to raise the FC to 4.
3. Do the overnight chlorine loss test to see if I have something growing, then SLAM if I do.
4. Redo the salt level test and also check the SWG cell/controller to make sure it's operating correctly (currently set to run at 20% for around 6 hrs a day).
Anything I'm missing? The SWG control panel has a sticker that says the salt level should be 2700-3400 ppm, does that sound correct?
Thanks, Ryan
Test results:
Water Temp = 65F
FC = 2
pH = 8.2
TA = 160
CH = 200
CYA = 30
Salt = 6600 (I think this is not correct, as the SWG controller thinks the salt level is low)
CC = 0
From reading thru Pool School, it seems as though my first steps are to:
1. Drop pH to 7.2 with acid, then aerate to get the TA down to 70. May require repeating to achieve this... Then shoot for a pH of 7.6.
2. Add bleach to raise the FC to 4.
3. Do the overnight chlorine loss test to see if I have something growing, then SLAM if I do.
4. Redo the salt level test and also check the SWG cell/controller to make sure it's operating correctly (currently set to run at 20% for around 6 hrs a day).
Anything I'm missing? The SWG control panel has a sticker that says the salt level should be 2700-3400 ppm, does that sound correct?
Thanks, Ryan
