New pool. Possible pollen issue? I have readings. Help

[joseywales]

Ok, our pool was new last week and we did shock it with what they supplied, on June 11, and added 8 oz of their aglaacide. We added nothing else until the next day when I found this site and started with bleach. I don't recall what the shock was and the bag was tossed.

I never noticed any crazy colors when I added bleach and my water has always been nice and clear, with decent levels. So I don't believe a conversion is necessary (you tell me).

However, there's a light brown substance that gathers mostly where wrinkles are and near the ladder. When I brush it away, I see nothing and it's gone. Now, whether it makes it to the filter, or just settles again overnight, I can't say. But I don't see it once I brush it, until the next day.

Using TF-100

FC 3.5
TC 4
pH 7.3
TA 180
CH 250
CYA 0

I believe it to be pollen and will now run the filter from 7-9:30 AM (when pollen becomes airborne). And from 5-8:30PM, when pollen "lands" and also the time during which I add bleach as necessary. My pump/pool turnover is 3.75 hours.

1 - I realize the CYA needs some help - any recommendations on stabilizer? Having used bleach, can I use a trichloride to increase the FC and the CYA at the same time? If so, where can I get it - pool store?

2 - CH could come up a bit - I know how to do that.

3 - should I reduce the TA, before raising the pH? Is muriatic acid the answer to lowering TA?

 

[reebok]

1. you need some, wherever you get it from. pool store, walmart, lowes, try whoever you want. the tabs will take too long.
2. you are within the recommended levels for a vinyl pool and I certainly wouldn't bring it any higher. see pool school, recommended levels.
3. yes, see pool school, how to lower TA.
to sum it up, you need to read all the articles in pool school.

 

[frustratedpoolmom]

Your CH is fine for an AG pool.

I would leave your TA and PH alone and wait and see what happens. If the PH raises to 7.8, lower it back down to 7.2 with muratic acid, which will also lower the TA a bit as well. Overtime, as this process is slowly repeated, when you see the PH drift up, PH and TA will end up in the recommended range. No reason to rush the process now, since you don't have an swg. Just be sure to test PH daily for awhile and as you get to know your pool you can test it every other day if it's pretty stable.

Also, adding CYA may lower both PH and TA a little as well.

 

[joseywales]

Thanks Reebok

1 - I know I need it, what , specifically, should I buy? I agre about tabs, but what should I get to deal quickly?

2 - I said come up a bit, only because the pool calculator said 260 as a target. I agree with you, and wasn't very concerned at this point though.

3 - I have read most and printed some. My pH is 7.3, so yes it could come down to 7.2 and I have been airating it, but perhaps not enough. Is the .1 really holding me back? Or am I "ok" at 7.2 and should just airate more?

Are the above issues causing the stuff at the bottom of the pool, or should I say, keeping me from preventing it?

Thanks again

 

[frustratedpoolmom]

See my post above.

PH/TA and CH are irrelevant to the dust you are seeing. If you are ever concerned that the substance is anything other than pollen or dust, just do an overnight FC test. If you lose more than 1ppm FC, simply shock your pool.

For CYA it's also called Stabilizer and you want the active ingredient to by 96% or better Cyanuric Acid. The above mentioned stores sell it, as do pool stores. Put some in a sock and set the sock in the skimmer, caring not to block the flow of water. Leave the filter running while the CYA dissolves, and for a full 24 hours after it has fully dissolved. DO NOT TEST for it again, for a full 5 days. After 24 hours after the CYA has dissolved, ASSUME it's in there and adjust your FC levels accordingly, refer to the CYA chart.

 

[reebok]

not sure what else to tell you. it's called stabilizer. some containers may call it conditioner. some may say UV shield. you need the ingredients to say cyanuric acid.
http://www.lesliespool.com/browse/Home/ ... 40/I/12302

when I lowered my TA, I kept ph around 7.0, raised it to 7.2 with aeration, then back to 7.0 with acid until it came down to 80 from 200. I based that off of someone else's post who said he did it that way and thought it worked better/faster. I really don't know. FPM gave you some advice though, which you should certainly consider. otherwise, the lowering your TA article in pool school should cover your questions. I'm actually not sure what you're asking about the .1 holding you back?

 

[joseywales]

Thank you both for helping.

With 2 teens and 2 toodlers, my wife and I haven't had much time for "pool study". I took a week off lat week for the installation. It was supposed to take 2 days, it took 3.5, did a number on the lawn and I spent most of my week negotiating with the installers to correct their mistakes. thas, plus trying to bring the lawn back, regular yard maintenance, and pool maintenance, I needed to be brought up to speed quickly. I wanted more of last week to complete this, but time was not on my side.

Anyway, I'll do the overnight FC test tonight and address accordingly. Next, I'll address the CYA.

Iw as asking for specifics on what to buy, because I don't want some yahoo at my LPS telling me what a good stabilizer is. I'm good to go now, thanks for helping.

thanks again for CYA'ing my...back

 

[joseywales]

OK. Overnight FC results are 12ppm and 12 ppm. So no change. I did brush the matter again last night and it disappeared. This morning it still is not there. I have set the pump to run for about 2 hours early AM and 4 hours early evening. I'll test FC overnight again to be certain.