Any suggestions on how to best plumb this?

[Indyjoh]

In a new house with a great pool with Pentair Intelliflo VS, and Nautilus FNS filter. No heater. I just put in a gas line today and bought a [FONT=arial, sans-serif]Pentair MasterTemp HD 400 BTU heater. Not a lot of room for the heater but planning to put it on the right side of filter (not squeezed between wall but in front around the corner). Do I loop the outflow pipe from the filter 180 deg or is there a way to rotate the base of the filter so the outflow comes out to the right rather than on the left (same side as the inflow). then I assume there is a different valve to get to replace the backwash valve. Ill move the salt cell after the heater and a check valve. But just curious on any better ways to configure this.[/FONT]

 

[kadavis]

Can you get a picture of where pipe leaves top port on BW valve and enters salt cell. This is where you need to tap in the two lines to heater and back. Otherwise you will need to cut and rotate filter 90 degrees so the valve is facing new trench. You may want to research muliport valve for this filter and see how the plumbing lines up

 

[swimcmp]

I do believe you can loosen your silver band clamp up and rotate the bottom half of the housing base and all. Just remember to tighten the bad. Also think about plumbing a bypass in front of the heater so when you aren't needing to heat the water you aren't running water through it.

 

[Indyjoh]

Sorry I didn't realize anyone responded. Need to change my profile notifications.

Thanks for responding. I attached q few new photos showing where the pipe leaves the top port and goes through BW valve & salt cell. Since there is no room to cut off the elbow and add a coupling or elbow going the other way, I guess I need to plan to get a new multiport valve. Or if I go the route of rotating the base so the outflow port comes out the front, then I still need a different valve to handle the BW.

The third picture i attached shows another port on the other side of the base. Is this just a drain or can this be used to flow the water toward the heater? (Sorry not familiar with this equipment since moved to the new house).

 

[CJadamec]

Looks like you have a bit of a plumbing project ahead of you. That unused plug is a drain plug sorry no easy fix there. The water should be plumbed to go as follows pump to filter, from filter to the heater, from the heater to the SWG, and finally from the SWG to the pool. I would leave all the components where they are. I would cut the the outlet of the filter right before the first vertical elbow. Run that pipe to your heater. From the outlet of the heater go back to the SWG.
A couple notes plumbing a bypass around the heater is always a good idea that will mean an addition of 3 ball valves.
You should also install a check valve between the heater and the SWG to prevent back flow from the SWG into the heater which can damage the heater.

 

[Indyjoh]

Yeah, not afraid of doing the plumbing, as long as I get it right the first time. Just so I'm clear what your saying, you suggest I cut before the first vertical elbow only because there is no room to cut and put an elbow right after the slide valve right? Because I have to run the pipe away from the house then to the right side of the filter so I would ideally like to cut it after the slide valve and bend it left (away from house) to make it a shorter path. I guess I could do that if I buy a new slide valve or one of the newer multiport valves.

 

[proavia]

Have you considered going around the back of the filter - if there's room? One or two more 90's isn't going to affect the water flow very much. Whatever approach you decide, be sure the pipes are supported and not left to flop around.

Also, I personally would not use standard ball valves for plumbing the heater bypass - as they will eventually become difficult to turn. Instead, you may want to consider using two 3-way Jandy valves.

 

[CJadamec]

I was thinking you would be plumbing the supply and return to the heater behind the filter as well. Yes the first vertical elbow gives you a nice clean tailstock to start your plumbing. If your slide valve is working​ you don't gain anything really by changing it. As proavia stated you want the run to and from the heater to be supported by something.

 

[Indyjoh]

OK Thanks for the advice. Wasn't thinking of going around back since the elec subpanel is there. I'll definitly consider that path if I can get around it without blocking the service panel from being opened.