Upgraded pool equipment.

[Manolith]

Hello. New to forum

A couple of months ago my lady and I got our first home and it had a pool. Really bad shape though. We finished redoing the pool and deck about a month ago but my pool equipment was pretty old and the piping was a mess. I am not a pool builder but I work with pipes alot so it was not a big issue redoing the piping. Our pool filter was tiny and I had to clean it almost daily. Got a Hayward C4030 425 with a 1.65hp hayward variable speed pump. So far I love it and the water is much better than before. Very clear. Oh and I also installed a heat pump I got from a good friend. Paid 500 for it and all I had to do was replace the fan motor I believe that it is 95k btu. All I need to finish everything is a sacrificial rod which I will order this week. Anyhow here are the pics.

 

[Texas Splash]

Welcome to TFP! Looks like some fantastic handiwork. If you haven't done so already, make sure you have a TF-100 (or Taylor K-2006C) test kit on-hand for accurate chemistry testing. I would encourage the TF-100 (link below in my sig). Speaking of signature, you can click EDIT YOUR SIGNATURE. It will help us later. Great to have you with us.

 

[kimkats]

Florida in the house! SWEET!

What did you do to redo the pool? deck? We would love to see some pics!

How have you been testing the water?

Here is the corner stone of what we teach here at TFP:

Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry

Kim

 

[Manolith]

Thsnks! I been taking the water every other day at the pool store right next to the house. I been testing the water there and been keeping all the chemistry in check. Been having to add acid twof or three times a week but they say that it's because of the new diamondbrite. I can't post more pics I'll have to host them else where and link them here but the water looks amazing with the new setup.

- - - Updated - - -

The deck is pavers and the pool finish is mailinot blue diamond brite

 

[kimkats]

Can you tell us anything about how they test the water at the pool store? What kind of tester is it?

See we have learned that pool stores do not always get things right There are some but they are few and far between.

Here at TFP we teach DIY care of pools. That starts with a good test kit. You can see the one I think is the best bang for the buck in my siggy below.

Kim

 

[Manolith]

I am pretty ignorant when it comes to pool chemistry. This is my first pool so there is alot I nend to learn. I seen them do like 5 different test but I never ask what they test for to be honest. And some times the guy doing the test is a pretty young kid so I'm not sure how well the test are. I'll have to read more about the kits recommended here and the tests I need to perform. So far what I've been doing is brushing the pool daily and now with the new pump I'm running it 24/7 with cleaning cycles in between. The pool size is around 14k gallon maybe 15k with my measurements.

 

[Texas Splash]

Testing (properly) from home is much easier than the stores would lead you to believe. Your instinct is correct in that many employees are simply doing what they were told and selling what the printout says to sell. It's all about business. Testing on your own with the right kit (i.e. TF-100) is the best way to go and will save you $$$ down the road.
Pool School - Test Kits Compared

 

[kimkats]

A little back story. I wanted to see just how off the pool stores really were. I tested my pool water and it was right where it should be and looked great.

I took my water to all four of the pool stores in our town. Two had the same name, one was the other "big" name and one was a small local store. I told them my water looked okay but I just wanted to make sure it was safe to swim.

All four stores tests were WAY different. This was up here, that was down there, etc. To "fix" my water buying their stuff would have cost between $50 and $170 depending on the store's testing! AND to come back in from two days to a week to see where it was after the treatment.

One store used the same test tube as the person before me without rinsing it out. One had a computer they used (the most expensive place as far as fixing my water). The other acted like they knew what to do.

A free test it not really free if you have to buy $$$ stuff to "fix" your water.

I really hope you get a good test kit. You will not believe how much better your water will look AND how much cheaper it is to take care of!

Kim

 

[Manolith]

I bought a Taylor k-2005 kit. Need to learn how to work it. Nerd time

 

[Texas Splash]

The 2005 won't have the FAS-DPD portion for FC testing. So make sure to order the FAS-DPD HERE. Once you do that, you essentially converted your 2005 into a Taylor K-2006.

 

[Manolith]

I will order that tonight. Maybe they have it at the local pool store

 

[Manolith]

I did the all the tests I could with the kit I got and this were the results. I followed the instructions carefully and rinsed the test tubes after every test. There is a small chance for human error as the colors can get a bit hard to make out but here are the results.

FC=5
TC=4
PH=7.4
Total Alkalinity=100
Calcium hardness=250
CYA=70
Sat index= -0.3

Suggestions appreciated. Thanks

 

[Texas Splash]

Your TA, pH and CH are within reasonable ranges for a non-SWG pool. I didn't see a SWG in your plumbing pic, or in any of your descriptions, so I'm assuming you don't have a SWG. Reminder - don't forget to update your signature.

Your CYA is up there. Don't let it get any higher for a non-SWG pool. It won't as long as you don't add any stabilizer/conditioner, or have any tablets/pucks in the water. Use only regular bleach for your FC. As for the FC, if it is actually 5, you can't go any lower based on the CYA. Please refer to the "Chlorine/CYA Chart" link in my sig. That's the key to knowing how much FC to have in your water. Obtaining that FAS-DPD will be "key" since your 2005 tester only goes to 5.

So for now, keep the FC in a good strong yellow/light orange color, but once you get the FAS-DPD, test the FC right away. You'll see what we mean. Use only regular bleach to maintain FC, and don't forget to update your sig with anything pertinent to your pool so we can all refer to it as time goes on. Hope that helps.

 

[Manolith]

Thanks. I don't have swg. The bleach for the free chlorine is just regular bleach that I get at wallmart or is it something I need from the pool store. And I do think have any tablets in the pool flat thing. The guys that did the pool told me not to use it as it could discolor the finish if it stops at a certain spot for to long. Lastly what is the best way to lower the cya

 

[Texas Splash]

CYA can only be lowered by exchanging water which exactly why we warn folks about the side-effects of tabs/pucks and those pool store bags of shock. Regular bleach does not have such an effect on CYA so it's great as a sanitizer. Yes, regular "Great Value" bleach from Wal-Mart's laundry section works just fine. Never any scented or splashless products - just regular/plain.

Sometimes Wal-Mart will have their seasonal "Pool Essentials" chlorine (same thing).

 

[Manolith]

I'll test for cya tomorrow again to make sure that it was not error on my part. Those kids at pool store sold me a bag of stabilizer last week and told me to use it all. It rains alot here maybe it will go down? I also get high evaporation about 2 inches or so a week sometimes more. Thanks alot for the help

 

[Texas Splash]

It rains alot here maybe it will go down?

Simple evaporation won't lower CYA, but lots of rain and overfills certainly will. Florida gets its share of rain, so it certainly can help lower CYA when you get enough of it. Testing CYA at home is always best. Make sure to follow these simple steps:

Proper lighting is critical for the CYA test, so you want to test for CYA outside on a bright sunny day. Taylor recommends standing outside with your back to the sun and the view tube in the shade of your body. Use the mixing bottle to combine/gently mix the required amounts of pool water and R-0013 reagent, let sit for 30 seconds, then gently mix again. Then, while holding the skinny tube with the black dot at waist level, begin squirting the mixed solution into the skinny tube. Watch the black dot until it completely disappears. Once it disappears, record the CYA reading. After the first test, you can pour the mixed solution from the skinny view tube back to the mixing bottle, shake, and do the same test a second, third, or fourth time to instill consistency in your technique, become more comfortable with the testing, and validate the CYA reading.