Sorry, follow up question about pH. I had lowered it to 7.2 when I first started the SLAM (Saturday, 2/18). Since pH resting is unreliable when FC is high like mine at 21 which I will bump up to 30 tonight to do the MA shock, what should I be doing to monitor my pH or know where it is at?
Mustard Algae Reoccurence
- Thread starter Lawtyger
- Start date
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,759
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Since you recently just completed the SLAM and your FC is so high still, I would just press-on with the MA elevation. It's only for 24 hours anyways. Once completed, the FC will drop slowly over the course of the next few days and eventually get back to under 10 where you can validate pH.
My FC after the last few unsuccessful shocks took a couple weeks to get even near regular levels when letting it drop on its own (but the weather is getting warmer and sun stronger so hopefully it speeds up).
Two notes. First what is your cc? You need to keep slam going ril cc less than0.5. Didn't see any cc numbers above. Second I use my pool as high as 20 FC. Don't drink but fine to swim. Heck get in and vac during the slam process
I agree with Texas, just carry on with the mustard algae elevation. This then should eliminate the algae for you and if you maintain your maintenance level FC you wont have to slam again
Yes the warmer weather and more sunlight should help lower your FC quicker
If you want to you can help lower the FC in your pool quicker using hydrogen peroxide. However I dont think that will be necessary, just let it naturally fall
What was your ph when you started and how often do you normally have to adjust your ph?
Yes the warmer weather and more sunlight should help lower your FC quicker
If you want to you can help lower the FC in your pool quicker using hydrogen peroxide. However I dont think that will be necessary, just let it naturally fall
What was your ph when you started and how often do you normally have to adjust your ph?
All three criteria were met on the SLAM - cc was 0.
Looking ahead to when the MA is actually gone for a change and I am maintaining FC at a higher level (I think target 8 was suggested earlier but I will double check), I do have a 3 year old and she refuses to keep the water out of her mouth. Obviously FC 20 and your comment don't drink it won't work, lol. I assume FC of 8 won't hurt her (again, as I understand it now, as long as CYA is high enough)?
This is my hope - at least I think I am doing it right this time to get the MA.
I was going to ask about chlorine reducer if it remained high for a while.
My pH was 7.2 before I started the slam last Saturday. My pH was 7.4 an hour ago before I added the extra cholorine for the MA shock. I normally have to put 20 oz. acid in every three days to go from 7.8 to 7.4 pH.
That's what I'm kind of wondering. . . if pH readings are not accurate at high chlorine levels like I currently am at, how much are they off.
The last variable I may as well mention is we are going on a cruise next Friday and will gone for a week so I gotta get an handle on the numbers in the next week so I can prepare for not being here for a week (keep the FC maintained at 8 or higher while I'm gone and get the pH lower when I leave so my father can swing by and add muriatic acid mid week).
Update on chemicals this morning:
FC - 32
CC - 0
pH - 7.3
ALK - couldn't get a reading???
CAL - 260
CYA - 50-55
Salt - 3200
Temp - 71 degrees
Regarding ALK, not sure what happened. Tested twice and I could never get the color to change from green to red - just got an unglued color somewhere in between. After 5 drops of R-0009 it goes from green to a light yellowish color. Adding more drops didn't change the color (did not make it darker). No issues ever before testing ALK and it was been hovering between 60 & 70 for months. Would the ALK test be unreliable during the MA shock or make the normal red color lighter???
Also, brushed the pool twice since starting the MA shock 12 hours ago and have been running the pool pump continuously at 50%.
FC - 32
CC - 0
pH - 7.3
ALK - couldn't get a reading???
CAL - 260
CYA - 50-55
Salt - 3200
Temp - 71 degrees
Regarding ALK, not sure what happened. Tested twice and I could never get the color to change from green to red - just got an unglued color somewhere in between. After 5 drops of R-0009 it goes from green to a light yellowish color. Adding more drops didn't change the color (did not make it darker). No issues ever before testing ALK and it was been hovering between 60 & 70 for months. Would the ALK test be unreliable during the MA shock or make the normal red color lighter???
Also, brushed the pool twice since starting the MA shock 12 hours ago and have been running the pool pump continuously at 50%.
Sounds like your TA is very low, more detailed test instructions here, Pool School - Extended Test Kit Directions
Not sure about that. The information you linked to (in pertinent part below) suggests if the solution turns red, pink, yellow or blue AFTER the 5 drops of R-0008 it is very low. That's not the case in my situation. It is not turning those colors after the R-0008 stage.
Actually, the second paragraph below suggests after adding the R-0009 drops I could get "something more or less red, pink, yellow, or clear." I am getting something along those lines - it was just different then the bright red I usually get when I do the TA test. Perhaps the elevated FC level is just affecting the normal red color result I usually get when FC is at normal level?
Thoughts?
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4. Add 5 drops of R-0008 and swirl to mix. The solution should turn green or blue. If the sample turns red, pink, or yellow, you are done, your TA is zero, and your PH is very very low (4.5 or lower).
5. Counting the number of drops as you go, add R-0009 One drop at a time, swirling to mix after each drop.
1. Continue adding drops until the color changes to something more or less red, pink, yellow, or clear. The sample may switch between green, blue, and gray while you are adding drops. That is not the color change you are waiting for.
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I would try adding more R-0007 and see what happens.
R-0007 is thiosulfate, used to neutralize chlorine so it won't interfere with the test. Extra R-0007 can be added when the FC level is very high to help prevent the dye from bleaching out.
R-0007 is thiosulfate, used to neutralize chlorine so it won't interfere with the test. Extra R-0007 can be added when the FC level is very high to help prevent the dye from bleaching out.
Did that in my earlier tests, actually added 13 total drops and the color did not change after the 5th drop so I didn't want to keep wasting R-0009. And, TA has been at or around 50/60 for weeks and four days ago during my most recent TA test before adding all the chlorine in yesterday to do the musta d algae shock.
That said, I just redid the TA test with pictures.
First pic taken after 2 drops or 0007 and 5 drops of 0008 were swirled:
Second pic taken when first signs of color change occurred which was after 4 drops:
Las pic was after 5 drops (not significant color change after this):
I'm feeling like the test results - even with the color I am getting today which isn't usual - does meet what was actually said in the link you provided as that says the color change isn't necessarily to red only (even though that has been my past experiences).
That said, I just redid the TA test with pictures.
First pic taken after 2 drops or 0007 and 5 drops of 0008 were swirled:
Second pic taken when first signs of color change occurred which was after 4 drops:
Las pic was after 5 drops (not significant color change after this):
I'm feeling like the test results - even with the color I am getting today which isn't usual - does meet what was actually said in the link you provided as that says the color change isn't necessarily to red only (even though that has been my past experiences).
Yes, seems to me that your TA is in the 40s or close to 50 and the high FC is impacting the color. I would wait until the FC drops to retest in several days or a week. Just the make sure your pH stays at 7.2 or higher.
Ok, I have baking soda if there's any benefit to upping the TA now. Based on past experience, my FC level is going to drop very slowly and it could be two or three weeks for it to come down from the 32 it is that.
I will continue to monitor pH, although everything I read keeps saying how unreliable it is at this high FC level.
Let me just add - the pool currently looks crystal clear at least.
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I will continue to monitor pH, although everything I read keeps saying how unreliable it is at this high FC level.
Let me just add - the pool currently looks crystal clear at least.
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Oh, true. PH is not accurate with FC above 10, disregard that! Nice catch. Adding enough baking soda to raise TA by 10 ppm is probably a good idea. We like clear water!
Just a note on the ph test reliability
The ph is accurate when FC is 0-10, the ph will read high by varying degrees from FC 10-18. Above FC 18 the ph test is completely unreliable.
I think I am right in that in order to test the ph accurately the FC has to be neutralised. So the test drops are a mix of phenol red and a chlorine neutraliser. However too much neutraliser would alter the ph. This is why there is a FC range on the ph test.
I really would stop testing ph. We cannot tell what it is until that FC comes down. Testing and getting odd results because the test is unreliable at that FC will just confuse/concern you for no reason.
Your FC will not drop in a linear fashion either. It will lose more FC per day in the beginning. So it may drop quicker than you think
The ph is accurate when FC is 0-10, the ph will read high by varying degrees from FC 10-18. Above FC 18 the ph test is completely unreliable.
I think I am right in that in order to test the ph accurately the FC has to be neutralised. So the test drops are a mix of phenol red and a chlorine neutraliser. However too much neutraliser would alter the ph. This is why there is a FC range on the ph test.
I really would stop testing ph. We cannot tell what it is until that FC comes down. Testing and getting odd results because the test is unreliable at that FC will just confuse/concern you for no reason.
Your FC will not drop in a linear fashion either. It will lose more FC per day in the beginning. So it may drop quicker than you think