Replacing filter questions...

[e1836936]

Hello all,

Replacing this old Hayward C1100, which is attached using 1 1/2" piping screwed into it with a new Hayward C1200...
1) What are the first steps, i.e. do I need to drain the pool a bit before removing the old filter?
2) How would you replace the filter without much pipe, to work with, on both sides?

Front

Back

 

[Texas Splash]

I have the C1200, and it's a pretty straight-forward set-up - much like your old set-up. The one potential problem I see with your current set-up is that the shut-off valves seem to be plumbed right-up against the existing filter. So you don't appear to have room to close-off that section of water to the pad because you have to remove those valves just to get the filter out of there. Previous plumbing didn't leave you anything to work with (example - compared to how mine as seen below in my sig "My Pool")

But even if there is no way to turn off water, you can still work through it. Not sure if it would even be required since the filter is probably still above your waterline, but perhaps use a tennis ball at the poolside skimmer to block water flow "if" it tries to flow back to the pad.

Once you remove the old and begin the new install, you'll cut PVC. Take your time and think it through (filter placement, level, route of PVC, etc). Use unions at the filter and new location of 3-way valves for easy work later. Also place them a bit farther from the filter if plumbing allows. Every pool is plumbed different, so have some latitude in your DIY project. Just take your time and once you are ready, ensure each piece is glued adequately so that a you encounter a 4-letter word ... "LEAK"..

Others may have some advise, so stick close and ask if you have anymore questions.

 

[e1836936]

Thanks!
Where would you make cuts to remove the old?

 

[Texas Splash]

Well, best I can tell from the pics, we know the pipe has to be unscrewed from the filter. To do that, you have to make some cuts, so you try to save as much pipe as possible. Problem is all those joints don't' give you much room do they? I would just go backwards to the closest point above an elbow, and cut so that you leave enough room for a new elbow or union to be glued back on in its place. Might be good to have all the new parts available (valves, elbows, unions, etc) and lay them out so you can get an estimate of how things might match-up. You might also try a "dry fit" to make sure you're new plumbing route is close before actually gluing everything together for good.

 

[e1836936]

Thanks!
Do you mean something like this?
Cut it right at the tank, then cut it, where the two red lines are (2nd pic); unscrew the short stub from the valve on the right and replace it. The tee and the elbow are garbage and need to be replaced along with one coupler and one threaded coupling for the valve end?

 

[Texas Splash]

The two red lines away from the filter might work. The vertical pipe should have enough room for repair. The line close to the shut-off valve might be a bit close. But if there's enough "lip" of pipe coming-out from the valve, you can get a union fitting or other piece of PVC on there. As for the pipe exiting the filter, that seems too close. By that I mean once you cut at that line, I don't think you'll have enough "lip" of PVC to attach anything to it. Maybe the pic is misleading, but that's how it looks. Keep in mind that I believed you could make the cut and unscrew that remaining piece totally from the filter, then screw a new male adapter into it. On that same concept, once you cut the other two red line areas, that entire "T" section and everything might just be unscrewed/removed from the filter in that same method, then replace the part going into the filter, leaving enough PVC to work with to reconnect. Hope that makes sense. In the end, you may see something better we don't and have a better feel for what can work and be re-glued together. And remember, it's just PVC. If you did mess something up, it's not a huge loss (other than some time) to remove those pieces and try again. For most connection, you can do a dry-fit to see if you're close.