need help

Jump to latest Follow Reply
D

diverman57

0
LifeTime Supporter
May 22, 2009
92
ok here is where i'm at. started conversion about 3 weeks ago before i found this
site. with the help of local pool store i began with 3 lbs of non chlorine shock for 2
days. this took my baq reading from 30 to zero.

they then had me start shocking withgranular chlorine at the rate of 4 lbs a day.
this went on for 4 or 5 days. pool went through many color changes from white, brown, green, very light green and then
perfectly clear. at this time they had me add cya and called conversion complete.

one week later i had water tested and it showed no chlorine and low TA. they had me add
5 lbs of baking soda and then shock the pool. at this time pool turned lighr green again
and has stayed that way.

in the mean time i ordered tf-100 test kit and began my own testing .
i have brought pool to shock level every day for a week now (with bleach this time).
pool is still perfectly clear, yet still light green. i brought fc to 15 ppm this morning and 8
hours later it was @ 2.5, (with cc 0f 16??

my question is : what do i do next? will green eventually
go away?

please help as patience is running out.

last readings:
fc-2.5
cc-16
cya-30

Edited for line breaks.Butterfly
 
If your CC number is correct, you still have a ways to go on the conversion. You need to continue at shock level, or higher, until CC is zero. If CC is really 16 that might take a number of days.

I recommend maintaining FC around 20 with liquid chlorine/bleach until CC is 0.5 or lower on two consecutive days. At that point the light green should have gone away. If it hasn't, there are other things we can do to get rid of it.

The overnight FC loss test, along with the CC level, are very useful tools for judging how you are coming along.
 
is having cya in the pool a problem? and i also read in pool school that using
non chlorine shock might cause high cc number. but its been 3 weeks since i used non chlorine shock.
 
Non chlorine shock usually hangs around in the water for a couple of days at most, and shorter than that when there is a lot of stuff to oxidize. I very much doubt that it is affecting the test result. Also, it is fairly common to see high CC levels towards the middle of a conversion, which is essentially where you are.

The CYA is going to slow down the remainder of the conversion. Baquacil breaks down fairly slowly, which is why extremely high FC levels are used in a conversion. The CYA makes it impossible to get active chlorine levels nearly as high as you can achieve when CYA is zero. CYA buffers chlorine, which both protects it from sunlight and lowers it's activity level.
 
i really appreciate your help and i'm sure i'll be asking for alot more.
your site helps me to remain patient. since i will be asking for help i
think it only right to support you, so i'll leave now and go become
a supporter.
 
diverman57 said:
i really appreciate your help and i'm sure i'll be asking for alot more.
your site helps me to remain patient. since i will be asking for help i
think it only right to support you, so i'll leave now and go become
a supporter.
Click to expand...


:goodjob: It's money well spent :wink: 8)

Thank you for coming here and trusting the advice we give :super:
 
Sorry I cannot answer your CC question. :scratch:

In an earlier post, Jason recommended using a shock level of 20. How often are you able to raise it back to shock level?

The more often you can raise it to 20 and keep hitting it with the bleach/liquid chlorine, the faster the conversion will be.

Does your water seem any clearer?
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
That is strange. The CC level shouldn't go up by more than the amount of chlorine you added.

The FAS-DPD chlorine test can be wrong if you do the test too slowly. You need to move along at a reasonably fast pace to get an accurate reading.
 
ok , lets see if i am testing properly, i add powder and sample turns pink,
i begin adding drops til it clears while swirling, now sometimes it will turn
clear and then turn pink again within seconds. should i keep adding
drops til it stays clear ?
 
i use the small cup part. my question now is when to stop adding drops. as i said the
sample turns clear, but before i can even set the container down it starts turning pink again.
so do i keep adding til it stays clear? say for 20 seconds?
 
When the CC level is very high there can be some ambiguity about when to stop counting FC drops. If you are swirling while adding drops, there can be a moment when the sample appears to have turned clear, while the drop is still only partially mixed in, and then the sample turns pink again. That should only last a fraction of a second and does not count. As long as you are swirling throughly the entire time, several seconds of clear should indicate the end of the test phase.

Normally, there should be more than a minute during which the sample stays clear when the FC portion of the test is complete. But at high CC levels that time can be shorter, sometimes much shorter. If you are swirling throughly the entire time, false clear moments should only be moments, under a second, and several seconds of clear should mean the end of the FC portion of the test. But if you pause in swirling during the test, or take too long overall, and CC levels are high things can get confusing.

If you do the test with a magnetic stirrer, the transitions are much easier to determine.
 
It is generally better to just swirl. If you do use something to stir with you have to worry about contamination. A magnetic stirrer justifies the effort to avoid contamination, but a swizzle stick doesn't (at least for me).
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply