Hayward Ecostar 3400SVP pump Drive Error

kyle11

0
May 17, 2012
470
So I go out on a rather warm January day the other day and notice the pump is not running. It says Drive error- pump has stalled. I check the skimmer and a huge batch of leaves got into the skimmer basket, no idea where they came from, it is January and no trees are on our property. So I imagine the pump was denied water and ran almost dry even though there was water in the pump basket but was about half full. I do have a drain at the bottom that feeds into it but I have my valve turned to it only draws about 20% from there.

Question is, what is likely the culprit of the problem. The drive or the motor. It will turn on and try to start 3 times then give that error. It sounds like a car alternator it turns over then dies, turns over then dies then give the error. I reached my hand in and the impeller spins freely. It was purchased in 2012, installed late that year, but not used until 2013 season so it is still well past the 3 year warranty. I have reached out to Hayward to see if they could help out in any way but am not expecting any help since it is so far out and I have no way of proving those times other than the day I purchased it.

So my question is what should be my next step? I am assuming the motor is fried but is there steps to take to test this? If I can get out by spending less than $300-$400 which is what I am seeing new motors on ebay going for I will go that route. I would hate to have to get a new pump because although I technically do not need the variable speed I do like the programmability of it. This is also the 2nd time the pump has messed up. It had the drive replaced after about 1 year of service already by Hayward. I have the salt water cell with the control panel so if I went with another company I would need to replace all of that I imagine.

On top of all that our robot we paid $800 for had the wheel fall off. It was a Polaris so that is going to have to be replaced also. I really don't think I want to go the robot route again though. I did pipe in a dedicated line for future use just in case this happened though which is good. I didn't expect 4 years down the road I would be shelling out possibly $1500 on equipment failures but I guess it comes with the territory.

Thanks
 
Kyle,

I read on here recently about someone with a similar issue. They were told to turn off the breaker to the pump for 30 minutes and then turn it back on. Seemed to fix their problem. A reset of some sort I suspect.

I have no idea if this will do anything for your specific problem, but it can't hurt.

Let's hope that someone with specific knowledge about your pump chimes in...

Thanks for posting,

Jim R.
 
I have been in contact with John from Hayward about the issues with my pump. Without asking John offered to provide a replacement drive with me covering the cost of labor. Being out of warranty, this is without question above and beyond customer service.

John, thank you and Hayward for taking care of your customers. I am in the market for a pool cleaner and it will probably be a Hayward product because of this exceptional customer service.

Thanks again


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
I just read this thread about the "Drive Error Pump Has Stalled". Yesterday I had the same issue and the pump would not start. I didn't find anything in my pump pot and have also tried powering off the circuit and have had no luck in getting the pump to prime and start.

This is a relatively new Hayward Echostar 3400 installed in September of 2014, within the 3 year warranty. This was installed by a local pool company as part of power company rebate program.

It appears that Kyle11 had some success getting this diagnosed and fixed by Hayward. I am hoping I can have the same success. If anyone has suggestions, please PM me. Great Forum and great people.

Thanks!

Steve
 
Thanks for this thread, even though it didn't actually help me personally except to see that others are having the same problem I did. I figure this is a good place to relate my story in case it can help someone else.

I came home from vacation last Wednesday to find that my pump was not running and the display was showing the "Drive ERROR, Pump has stalled" message. I was gone for a week so I don't know when it happened. The pool was in pretty good shape, though, so it probably hadn't been more than a day or two.

I was sure the pump was only 2 1/2 years old but after a search of photos on my phone I determined that I was off by a year! It was professionally installed in February of 2014, not 2015. I knew I had registered it on the Hayward website to make it eligible for the 3 year extended warranty. Of course, now it was out of warranty.

I looked into buying a new pump and found a brand new EcoStar online for only $875 (no tax and free shipping). There's a $75 rebate from Hayward for this pump right now that supposedly requires professional installation but nowhere on the form do they ask for information about the installer. So I wasn't going to buy the drive to fix mine for only a few hundred less, especially since I wasn't sure that was the problem. I wanted to stay with the same pump for ease of installation - no mods required to my plumbing. I contacted Hayward customer support via email on the off chance that I might be able to talk them into covering it under warranty.

A guy finally got back to me after a day or so with a form to send to the Hayward warranty people in Phoenix. He also told me to get back to him if my request was denied. I filled out the form, scanned it, and emailed it to them - they also have a fax number, BTW. They got back to me the same day, Friday, by phone and email, assuring me that they would cover repairs or even full replacement of the pump if it was necessary.

They contacted Poolman who sent a guy out yesterday to change my drive with no cost to me for either parts or labor. Here's what Hayward told Poolman: "Hayward will cover all Ecostar drives for parts and labor during years 3-4, no approval needed. When it is over the 4th year we will take care of the parts with an approval code on a case by case basis."

While the guy was here repairing my pump he told me that he has repaired or replaced a lot of the EcoStar pumps and almost no TriStars. The TriStar is a newer model so it might not have enough time on it to know if it would fail in 3-5 years, but supposedly it has completely redesigned electronics. Also, he told me that the footprint and hookups of the TriStar match those of the EcoStar so it would be a direct replacement, and the cost isn't much different.

Finally, I have several observations:

1) The new drive came with a new keypad controller/display as well, revision 3.1.1. The menus are essentially the same except there is no Autoprime option and the prime duration is settable anywhere from 0.00 to 15.00 minutes in 30 second increments. I tried the 0.00 setting and it actually starts without priming! If you are still using Autoprime on your EcoStar pump, change it. I wasn't, but only because the original installer suggested not to.

2) The pump seems a bit louder than it was before, not the part that moves the water because that is the same, but the drive electronics I believe are producing a hum or whine that I didn't notice before. It's only noticeable when I get within 15-20 feet of the pump, though.

3) The exhaust fan appears to move more air. I don't know if this is because mine had diminished to some extent or the new controller has been modified to provide better cooling by running the fan at a higher speed. Or is the fan connected to the pump shaft and this is all in my head?

One more thing: Replacing the drive module pretty much requires that the pump be removed and turned over on its side in order to get to the screws. I forgot that I had bolted my pump in so I wasted some of the guy's time getting the bolts out before he could fix it. So do the repair guy a favor and remove your bolts before he gets there.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Cool...glad you got your pump up and running. And hats off to you for sharing your experience, much appreciated.
Just don't forget, you're still running EchoStar and hopefully the replacement drive controller will last just as long or perhaps longer. From my understanding, the EchoStar was once very popular but also well known for its dreaded "Drive Error" issues from which I believed jeopardized Hayward at some point. Hence, they are somehow lenient in warranty calls and often go beyond as a goodwill gesture. I have no affiliations with Hayward or whatsoever, so please don't get me wrong.

The most likely culprit on the PCB is the Hybrid Power Amp which cost about $25. But removing the PCB to replace the component is a PITA and you need to have a good soldering skills. YouTube has videos on how to's for those DIY'ers.

While the guy was here repairing my pump he told me that he has repaired or replaced a lot of the EcoStar pumps and almost no TriStars. The TriStar is a newer model so it might not have enough time on it to know if it would fail in 3-5 years, but supposedly it has completely redesigned electronics. Also, he told me that the footprint and hookups of the TriStar match those of the EcoStar so it would be a direct replacement, and the cost isn't much different.

I completely agree with you on this. Looks like Hayward engineers had gotten smarter and made some improvements on their TriStar models (perhaps a re-labeled EchoStar). My pool system equipment is solid Hayward. Not by choice but that's how I inherited the pool. I recently replaced the single speed motor with a TriStar. Self-installed and therefore the warranty is limited to 1 year per Hayward. There is a big difference between "Professionally" installed and installed by a "Qualified Licensed Professionals".

Anyway, I'm all ears from other TriStar owners who have yet to replace their drive controller and under what fault code. There isn't a "Drive Error" code in the Troubleshooting section of the manual. So I'm just curious to know if EchoStar and TriStar shares the same problematic Hybrid Power Amp (Part# wise).
 
Help! I have the same problem my EcoStar (3400) says, "Pump stalled!" It's 4 years old.

Can someone help me?

Contact Hayward. Sounds like they have helped others with this issue. I had my drive replaced when my pump was just a few months old. It still keeps stalling. My PB is still “working on it” and supposed to bring a Hayward rep out here. I’m giving them one more shot, then I’m calling Hayward myself. Right now they don’t want me calling Hayward. Not sure what’s up with that...
 
Help! I have the same problem my EcoStar (3400) says, "Pump stalled!" It's 4 years old.

Can someone help me?
Not long ago, I was challenged by a close friend of mine to fix the dreaded "Drive Error, Pump has Stalled" issue on his 3+ years old Echostar. Armed with de-soldering station and a heat gun, I managed to replace the Power Hybrid IC (IRAMX16UP60B) and it was a success. Not too easy but doable.

You can save a huge amount of money if you have soldering skill and willing to take challenges or ask someone to do it for you. Make sure you have some Silicon Heatsink Compound handy and do not apply glue or silicon to the PCB when mounting it back to the chassis. Here's the youtube video for reference.

Your other option is to go by "Nursenini's" recommendation. Good Luck!
 
I am having the exact same problem & now my pool tech is saying I can replace the drive at $1,200 plus or the pump at $1,900 plus!! When I asked if any other part might need to be fixed, prior to jumping straight to replacing ONLY a FOUR YEAR old pump - I got a Nope. Swallowing another substantially costly part which is only FOUR years old is hard. We just had to replace the T-cell only 3mths ago, which cost us $800

Can anyone suggest any advice?

I have looked at the pumps online & then questioned our pool tech about the cost especially if I can order it myself & save HUNDREDS of dollars especially if I'm still only left with a year warranty.
Thanks a bunch!!

Good day, the error you are having tells us the drive is most likely bad. You stated 4 years old. I will private message you with contact info. Hayward might be able to help.
 
I am having the exact same problem & now my pool tech is saying I can replace the drive at $1,200 plus or the pump at $1,900 plus!! When I asked if any other part might need to be fixed, prior to jumping straight to replacing ONLY a FOUR YEAR old pump - I got a Nope. Swallowing another substantially costly part which is only FOUR years old is hard. We just had to replace the T-cell only 3mths ago, which cost us $800

Can anyone suggest any advice?

I have looked at the pumps online & then questioned our pool tech about the cost especially if I can order it myself & save HUNDREDS of dollars especially if I'm still only left with a year warranty.
Thanks a bunch!!
Here's hoping Hayward able to assist you in addressing the issue in your favor. Else, it won't hurt to ping this Youtube Video poster and see what arrangement he has to offer.

The EchoStar model has the <$25 Power Hybrid IC in the drive controller and is more likely the culprit. So far, I have replaced 2 of them with great success but I swear not to do it again unless it's my TriStar. I have a professional vacuum desoldering station but still, it was a pain and very challenging to remove the PCB from the chassis. Good luck...
 
Hello to all,

I too have had many bad problems w the ecostar 3400 vsp. mainly bad drives and bad pumps and other...It's good that Hayward takes care of the customers, but it seems like with all the bad drives, they should have done a recall bc of the defective PCB's and replaced all the drives. But. it seems some are good and Hayward wants to leave well enough alone on the ones w no issues, which makes sense.

I too would be interested to know of the tristar has had as many problems as the eco ? Or, has Pentair and other pump manufacturers had as many problems as Haywards ecostar...I know if you go to Amazon and read the reviews, there are more 1 stars than 5 stars, so that really tells you something...

Finally, the guy that had a 1200-1400 quote to replace only the drive and $1900 for the whole pump, he should report that pool person for robbery. you can get a whole new pump on line in some places for $900...I hope they did not go w that person, that is, unless the pool owner lives in a place that costs $500-$600 to get to this house.

Good luck on your problems
 
I am curious to know that for those that have had drive failures, did you run the pump a lot on full speed?

Given the failure of a power IC, the higher the speed, the more current that is traveling through the electronics and the designers of the pump with drive may have slightly undersized the drive for the pump which would put the electronics under more thermal stress.

One way that may prevent failure is to the limit the maximum speed of the drive to something like 3000 RPM which is about a 30% reduction in power. That pump should never need to be run at full speed anyway.
 
I would be curious to hear from others as well.

My drive failed in early January of this year. It was installed in April 2014.

The highest scheduled run speed is 60% for skimming and a pressure side cleaner and that was typically two 1.5 hour cycles per day in summer.
I have a demand speed of 80% for a slide. Once activated It runs for 2 hours unless you turn it off manually.
Typical filter speed is 25 or 30 percent and runs up to 12 hours in summer. (As required for SWG and Cl demand)
I don't know exactly when the drive failed but I assume at a startup from stopped. The pump does run at 100% for 3 minutes to prime if it wasn't running prior.
In winter, I typically only run the skim/cleaner cycles after water temperature is below 50. Prior to the drive failure, I never winterized the pool. The automation system will run freezer protect (60%speed) in freezing temperatures. I cover the pump, filter, etc with tarps and heater if there is extended cold.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.