So I took my very first water sample on my brand new pool to the local pool shop for a test, they ran it and gave me a print out. I have some questions I need answered and didn't feel comfortable with their answers. Basically the pH read 8.0, alkalinity 70ppm, free chlorine 5ppm, Ca+ hardness 295ppm, stabilizer 100ppm, salt 2700ppm. Their report said to add salt, nothing about pH. The pool company and sub contractors that installed the pebbletech scared me to death over scaling and warranty etc when pH isn't maintained in the proper 7.6-7.8 range....why did the pool testers not mention my pH was high? I called a different store and the man told me that since my alkalinity was low, my actual pH was probably 7.4ish......face palm. WHAT? I read thru the pool school and some other threads (dear lord the deep end threads).....so confused. I poured in 2 cups of MA and the pH came down some, looked like high ideal range after about an hour. I'm running the pump 6 hours a day, SWCG set to 50% for now. I borrowed a cheap test kit from someone, mine arrives wednesday. got this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00107039U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Don't understand my test results
- Thread starter JustJeff
- Start date
Hi, welcome to TFP! If you have the chance to cancel that test kit order you should go ahead and do so. It says its a 5 way test but it lacks 2 tests your will need, the Calcium test and the CYA test. This test kit only contains 3 tests that will be useful to you, the pH, TA, and Chlorine test. You don't need an acid demand test if you use PoolMath to determine what you need to balance the water. The chlorine test in this kit tops out at 5ppm, and you may need to keep your chlorine higher than 5ppm if your CYA level (stabilizer) truly is 100ppm. An FAS/DPD test kit will allow you to test much higher levels of chlorine, and it includes the CYA and Calcium tests that you will need as well as TA, and PH. Amazon carries the FAS/DPD test kits we recommend such as the TF 100 or the Taylor K2006. You can also order the TF 100 directly from TF Testkits. As for salt tests you can rely on your SWG salt readings, use salt test strips, or get a salt test kit.
As for your current test results, if they are accurate then your CYA and pH are too high. Both of these test results are at the top of the reporting range for these tests and could possibly be higher. You need to address the pH first and use muriatic or dry acid to bring it down in the 7.2-7.8 range. If your plaster is new your pH will tend to rise on its own for the first 6-12 months. Pools with SWGs also tend to have rising pH levels. You will need to test the pH daily until it begins to stabilize.
Since you are using a SWG as your source of chlorine you will be able to work with the higher CYA level as long as you keep the FC in the correct ratio for the CYA level. Refer to the [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA] chart to find the correct FC level corresponding to your current CYA level.
For now I suggest you avoid the deep end threads. Those are advanced topics in pool care that are interesting to read but they will not have the basic information you need to learn to manage your pool. Once you have mastered the basics you can read the more advanced threads if you choose.
Start off with the ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry and feel free to ask any questions you may have. This is our slow time of year but we still have plenty of volunteers on duty who will help you out anyway they can, it just might take a little while to get an answer.
I hope you enjoy your new pool!
As for your current test results, if they are accurate then your CYA and pH are too high. Both of these test results are at the top of the reporting range for these tests and could possibly be higher. You need to address the pH first and use muriatic or dry acid to bring it down in the 7.2-7.8 range. If your plaster is new your pH will tend to rise on its own for the first 6-12 months. Pools with SWGs also tend to have rising pH levels. You will need to test the pH daily until it begins to stabilize.
Since you are using a SWG as your source of chlorine you will be able to work with the higher CYA level as long as you keep the FC in the correct ratio for the CYA level. Refer to the [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA] chart to find the correct FC level corresponding to your current CYA level.
For now I suggest you avoid the deep end threads. Those are advanced topics in pool care that are interesting to read but they will not have the basic information you need to learn to manage your pool. Once you have mastered the basics you can read the more advanced threads if you choose.
Start off with the ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry and feel free to ask any questions you may have. This is our slow time of year but we still have plenty of volunteers on duty who will help you out anyway they can, it just might take a little while to get an answer.
I hope you enjoy your new pool!
......"WHAT?"
I think you've pretty much answered your own questions about the validity of pool store testing and the accompanying advice. We'll help ya' out! Order one of our recommended test kits and never look back. Welcome.
I think you've pretty much answered your own questions about the validity of pool store testing and the accompanying advice. We'll help ya' out! Order one of our recommended test kits and never look back. Welcome.
JustJeff- your pool and mine are the same size. I *highly* recommend you obtain the TF-100 test kit or the Taylor K-2006 (I prefer the TF-100, and it is a better buy) so you'll have accurate test results to be able to take control of that new pool. You can obtain the test kits via TFTestkits.net
That kit you got on Amazon just wont cut it. Its missing too many *important* elements. That's why it was so cheap.
Yippee
That kit you got on Amazon just wont cut it. Its missing too many *important* elements. That's why it was so cheap.
Yippee
- Jan 4, 2016
- 5,288
- Pool Size
- 44000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
Welcome to TFP!
Glad you found us at this stage in your pool journey. I'm new and can 100% confirm that buying a proper test kit will help you achieve a safe and clean pool at low cost. Going to pool stores leads to high cost and a pretty high chance of dissatisfaction with your pool.
You will be doing enough testing that you'll probably use up the stuff in the kit that's already on the way, so that money won't be wasted in the long run. But in the near term, you need the TF-100 or K-2006 to get the water right.
Good to have you here
Glad you found us at this stage in your pool journey. I'm new and can 100% confirm that buying a proper test kit will help you achieve a safe and clean pool at low cost. Going to pool stores leads to high cost and a pretty high chance of dissatisfaction with your pool.
You will be doing enough testing that you'll probably use up the stuff in the kit that's already on the way, so that money won't be wasted in the long run. But in the near term, you need the TF-100 or K-2006 to get the water right.
Good to have you here
OH yeah! Another FL person! We will get you fixed up and your pool will last a LOT longer now that you have found us.
I want you to know that all of the ideas and levels on TFP have been science tested and daily tested on 10,000s of pools. We have the science papers we can share if you would like tomake your brain explode LOL
Here is the beginners guide to TFP:
TFPC for Beginners
I am also going to share the corner stone of TFP. It is a lot of info but should help you start to understand what we do and why:
Pool School - Pool School
we got ya!
Kim
I want you to know that all of the ideas and levels on TFP have been science tested and daily tested on 10,000s of pools. We have the science papers we can share if you would like tomake your brain explode LOL
Here is the beginners guide to TFP:
TFPC for Beginners
I am also going to share the corner stone of TFP. It is a lot of info but should help you start to understand what we do and why:
Pool School - Pool School
we got ya!Kim
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