First Time Pool Owner

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needsajet said:
OK, so it's dripping from the coupling. Good news is that it's above ground and easy to get at :)

Unfortunately there's no unions on the pump, or it would be super easy, but it's still pretty straight-forward to do PVC pipe fitting and fix that. Total materials is under $20. You could re-do the pump with unions at the same time for maybe $40 in supplies. Have you ever glued PVC pipe or electrical conduit? If not, happy to walk you through it. In a nutshell, you'll cut out the bad bit and reconnect with good joints. Or you could get a poolie to do it, maybe $100 to $200 depending who you know or if you can get mate's rates.
Click to expand...

Im sure it's something I'd be able to tackle next weekend or after work one day.

Now my aerator valve handle is broken? And leaks slightly from there as well. Is it the same idea as replacing the coupling? Just smaller piping


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Also, even though my pressure is high, my return jets barely have any pressure, one has none whatsoever. If I turn my aerator on it drizzles instead of sprays water out. does this sound like bad cartridge filters?

Im just trying to get all these little items taken care of before swimming time begins of course.


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Yeh good that you're working through it and getting it all sorted out.

I do wonder about the cartridges for sure. Either that or you have a return side blockage somewhere else. What are you referring to as the aerator valve? Is it in the picture of your pad?
 
needsajet said:
Yeh good that you're working through it and getting it all sorted out.

I do wonder about the cartridges for sure. Either that or you have a return side blockage somewhere else. What are you referring to as the aerator valve? Is it in the picture of your pad?
Click to expand...

Look below the coupling. I'm curious as to if I should take the cartridges out and run it with nothing in to see the pressure readings...

What could be a return side blockage ?


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Where does the aerator line go? Does that go to a bubbler in the pool? Looks like you'll need to replace that as well if it's leaking.

I've asked for some more help because I'm not familiar enough with cartridge filters to say if it's OK to run with the cartridges out, or any steps to help make it OK. Definitely an idea that crossed my mind as well.

Return side blockages are rare which is why I'm still concerned about the cartridges. Would pretty much have to be a chunk or something loose that went down the pipe after maintenance. Not likely.
 
needsajet said:
Where does the aerator line go? Does that go to a bubbler in the pool? Looks like you'll need to replace that as well if it's leaking.

I've asked for some more help because I'm not familiar enough with cartridge filters to say if it's OK to run with the cartridges out, or any steps to help make it OK. Definitely an idea that crossed my mind as well.

Return side blockages are rare which is why I'm still concerned about the cartridges. Would pretty much have to be a chunk or something loose that went down the pipe after maintenance. Not likely.
Click to expand...

Not a bubbler. Just like the picture attached (not my pool)

f1d6ce245f2fbb6f3b9cb90308d7ce85.jpg


I'll have to open the filter up and see what's going on in there.


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If your chlorine test is orange, the chlorine is probably super high.

What is the filter pressure reading?

What pump do you have?

Can you post pictures of the chlorine test and the filter cartridges.

The main risk of running without the cartridges is clogging up something downstream with debris.
 
Oh OK, for cooling.

Yeh that valve would need to be replaced at the same time you do the leakage on the main return line. It would be an improvement to use a pool valve there. Because of the pipe restrictions, you'll need a barrel union to make that repair, but it's all straight-forward if you're a bit handy.

It would be reasonable to re-do it all from the pump to the filter and back into the ground. With a leak from that coupling, you have to wonder how the rest of it was done.

OK to run with cartridges out. Don't leave anything loose in there, and it's just long enough to bleed the air out and then let the pressure stabilize. You don't want to leave the pool running that way.
 
JamesW said:
If your chlorine test is orange, the chlorine is probably super high.

What is the filter pressure reading?

What pump do you have?

Can you post pictures of the chlorine test and the filter cartridges.

The main risk of running without the cartridges is clogging up something downstream with debris.
Click to expand...

Filter pressure reading: 32 psi
Pump: all I know its a Hayward Cartridge Filter, there aren't even labels on it.
I won't be opening up the filter until this weekend, but will upload pics once I do, and test at the same time.
I'll have to for sure reduce chlorine, because my CYA was in the 100 range, and otherwise it would take forever to evaporate.
 
needsajet said:
Oh OK, for cooling.

Yeh that valve would need to be replaced at the same time you do the leakage on the main return line. It would be an improvement to use a pool valve there. Because of the pipe restrictions, you'll need a barrel union to make that repair, but it's all straight-forward if you're a bit handy.

It would be reasonable to re-do it all from the pump to the filter and back into the ground. With a leak from that coupling, you have to wonder how the rest of it was done.

OK to run with cartridges out. Don't leave anything loose in there, and it's just long enough to bleed the air out and then let the pressure stabilize. You don't want to leave the pool running that way.
Click to expand...

I purchased the house from flippers, who lets say don't flip the best, they claimed to have repaired pool pump/filter, but clearly not and am assuming that they replaced these pvc pipes as they are newer then the rest of the plumbing on the pool, but they did not do it very well. the aerator valve does look like original to when the pool was installed in 2006. Looks like I have the upcoming weekend to take care of some pool plumbing and maintenance.
 

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Good stuff :)

Through this week, you can decide what you plan to do, and maybe do a search on "PVC gluing", "fitting PVC pipes" and things like that. I'm happy to describe as best I can and there's others here ready to help as well.

In the meantime, here's the 3 fundamental rules of plumbing:
1. Toilet paper don't run uphill
2. don't bite your fingernails
3. and payday is Friday

Substitute correct word for 'toilet paper'
 
Something to think about is your long-term goal and limitations for timing the upgrades. Buying the house is a tough stage to be at, that's for sure. Eventually, you'll be replacing equipment, so working out where you'd like to end up might be worthwhile.

If you're going to live there a long time, you could plan out the long-term pad, for example maybe a two-speed pump to save electricity and a salt water chlorinator to avoid the bleach shopping. Or if money was available in the not too distant future, you could re-do it sooner.

Having the system draining down is not ideal by any means, but if you can get the pressure down and the flow up, the system will probably survive the re-priming.
 
needsajet said:
Something to think about is your long-term goal and limitations for timing the upgrades. Buying the house is a tough stage to be at, that's for sure. Eventually, you'll be replacing equipment, so working out where you'd like to end up might be worthwhile.

If you're going to live there a long time, you could plan out the long-term pad, for example maybe a two-speed pump to save electricity and a salt water chlorinator to avoid the bleach shopping. Or if money was available in the not too distant future, you could re-do it sooner.

Having the system draining down is not ideal by any means, but if you can get the pressure down and the flow up, the system will probably survive the re-priming.
Click to expand...

That was for sure in my thought process actually. I just want it to survive this swimming season and shoot to replace everything for spring/ summer of 2018.


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There's others watching the thread, and hopefully JamesW or others will jump in with their thoughts as well.

Given that you want to research and plan out a good equipment pad (great idea by the way), you have options.

I think you can limp along with the slow leaks and draining down. There's a risk of it giving out, but you might be chasing more leaks cause of the plumbing work, and you'll need to buy fittings that suit the current situation, and then probably different ones when you upgrade. If the leaks get worse, it could be sorted if/when that happens. Then a re-plumb with your ideal long term solutions by next year, or even this year if funds allow. Just my two cents for time and cost saving. I'd really like the better experts to comment as well.

On the other hand, it's practice plumbing for your upgrade, and you'll learn a ton by replacing the return side that will benefit your upgrade quality and give you confidence to make it all you'd like it to be.

The priority for me would be to get the flow up and pressure down so we can get the water circulating and filtering properly and avoid water problems. There should be a bit less leakage at lower pressure, although you won't be able to stop the system from draining if air is able to get in.
 
needsajet said:
There's others watching the thread, and hopefully JamesW or others will jump in with their thoughts as well.

Given that you want to research and plan out a good equipment pad (great idea by the way), you have options.

I think you can limp along with the slow leaks and draining down. There's a risk of it giving out, but you might be chasing more leaks cause of the plumbing work, and you'll need to buy fittings that suit the current situation, and then probably different ones when you upgrade. If the leaks get worse, it could be sorted if/when that happens. Then a re-plumb with your ideal long term solutions by next year, or even this year if funds allow. Just my two cents for time and cost saving. I'd really like the better experts to comment as well.

On the other hand, it's practice plumbing for your upgrade, and you'll learn a ton by replacing the return side that will benefit your upgrade quality and give you confidence to make it all you'd like it to be.

The priority for me would be to get the flow up and pressure down so we can get the water circulating and filtering properly and avoid water problems. There should be a bit less leakage at lower pressure, although you won't be able to stop the system from draining if air is able to get in.
Click to expand...

Sounds like a good thought that I'll follow. But I'll need help on preparing for what pad setup I should go with and start putting money aside for it.


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So tested the pool with the test kit I've had and they came back a little more normal today except Cl and Br still a bit high.

pH 7.65
Cl 5
Br 10
Alk 80 ppm
Hardness 400 ppm

Water temp 58 degrees


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kimkats said:
What is BR?

I am guessing CL is what we call FC (free chlorine).

What is your CYA?

What test kit did you use?

Kim:kim:
Click to expand...

I haven't retested my CYA since I did the dilution test. And I added a bit water since then

And yes sorry. Same test kit I've had, hth 6 way. Waiting for funds to permit to shoot for the Taylor test kit. Been doing a lot to the house so needed the funds elsewhere so hopefully for now it'll do.


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The hth 6 way is the best of the "baby" tests. MUCH better than guess strips. Well done for now!

Even if you have not tested for it you can use the last test results for you CYA to give us a base to work from.

Kim:kim:
 
kimkats said:
The hth 6 way is the best of the "baby" tests. MUCH better than guess strips. Well done for now!

Even if you have not tested for it you can use the last test results for you CYA to give us a base to work from.

Kim:kim:
Click to expand...

Cya dilution test was around 90-100 ppm and without dilution around 80 ppm.


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