Test kit in ... let the SLAMing begin!

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buballodingo

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Jan 2, 2017
230
Sydney NSW
Gday all,
New to the forum so very cautious about what steps I take with the pool. I have just received the clear choice labs test kit in so will be teaching myself on how to use it. I also took a sample to the pool shop for direct comparison. So in taking the plunge to test and maintain the pool myself I have some quick questions prior to SLAMing:

1. Its has been raining all morning, can I still test and SLAM.
2. On the pool shops advice I had a mustard algae problem a couple of weeks back which I bought an algecide to treat, since then pool dynamics have been haywire hence my plunge. I also got a chlorine concentrate to deal with what I thought was a black algae problem. Now, I am not sure if ewither have completely gone so I will SLAM the pool to start from scratch - is that the right apporach?
3. The pool due to the chlorine concentrate for treating black algae has been high - pool shop only measures to 10 but we think its above 25. I will do my own test today to determine and use the pool calc- It has been like this for 2 days (this is the 3rd), does this effectively mean I have started the SLAM already - CYA has been between 50 (2 days ago) and 70 from pool shop test today.

Thanks for any feedback.

I will post the process and results here if you dont mind just to ensure I am on the right path to enlightenment :)

Cheers
 
1. Rain will not affect your test results, although you will get wet when you run out at get a sample. It may affect the cya test in that you need good sunlight to read it reliably. Trust your own test results, the clear choice kit is great kit. The pool store often get things wrong with the test wither by rushing, lack of understanding, cross contamination of samples or lack of calibration of equipment. Read the instructions and you do have standards to check your testing with

2. Algaecide is more of a preventative than a treatment, what type did you add?

3. If chlorine is above 10 it will affect the ph test result (give false high). So you may have started your slam already

Yes please post your results

I would suggest printing out the slam page and leaving it next to your test kit. Reread often until you have a handle on the process

Basically we slam first, then we treat for other residual algae or other problems later

To slam you use liquid chlorine. Most aussie's seem to say bunnings is one of the cheapest places to source high % (12.5) chlorine

Oh and welcome to the site :handwave:
 
I was provided Tropiclear for the mustard algae and some chlorine granual concentrate for the black algae - forget which one thopugh.

Just tested my PH it was 7.6. Not confident in my CYA test as yet (well above 100) I will redo just incase I stuffed it).

I have made my own summary of the SLAM process and spreadsheet in excel for tracking. Will post results shortly.

Thanks for the welcome.
 
Ok the tropiclear packaging states it is
Tropiclear Algaecide is a combination of the organo copper complex contained in Lo-Chlor Pool Algaecide together with the proven agent, Alkyl Dimethyl Benzyl Ammonium Chloride.
Click to expand...
The MSDS states 10% Benzalkonium chloride and 1.9g/L Copper - triethanolamine complex

I am assuming you got the chlorine granules at the same time. If they were also a Tropiclear product called black algae destroyer it was 90% Trichloroisocyanuric acid, aka trichlor. This raises FC and CYA

For the CYA test, which is one of the hardest ones in my opinion, I squirt to a line, glance at the black dot/container, then to the next line, glance etc until I cant see it any more. Also you can tip the same mixture back and forth between the mixing and the test container until you are happy with the result. Round up to the nearest 10.

If you think it is still over 100, then dilute the pool water in half with tap water and try again, double the result you get. It cuts down on accuracy but gives you an idea of where you might be

There is a video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NxaqoW-_MCs

Also these notes may help (taken from the extended test kit directions page in pool school)

Notes

  • If you are not confident in your reading, you can pour the solution from the view tube back into the mixing bottle and then try filling the view tube again. You can repeat this portion of the test over and over again for several minutes without affecting the test results.
  • This page at Taylor Technologies has photographs which show what the view tube looks like when the test is complete.
  • The precision of the test, when done correctly, is around plus or minus 15 for levels up to 90 and plus or minus 30 for levels between 100 and 200.
 
Okay had a few issues with my testing. The hard one was CH as I could not get the sample to turn blue. Tried both ways as described on the Clear choice labs instructions. If I had to guess, it could be because of metals in the water from the tropiclear? But I am not a chemist so don't know.

I had a couple of goes at the CYA and think I got a good reading.

My results were:
My Test
FC45
TC45
CC0
pH7.6
TA100
CH>400
CYA90
S5000 from pool shop)
Pool shop
FC>10
TC>10
CCNA
pH7.8
TA80
CH175
CYA70
S5000

I have set my target levels to be
Optimal
FC 5
TC 5
CC 0
pH 7.5
TA 70
CH 400
CYA 70
Salt3500

So my chlorine level is massive. My SGW was running at 100% 3 hours in the morning and 3 hours evening. I have turned this down to 60% now.
I need to get the chlorine down to measure it more accurately. Is there any way of doing this? I have opened the remco pool cover now as well until it is at a manageable level.

I was thinking of waiting a day or so until is my chlorine is down before I do my OCLT test as I think this level of chlorine is stuffing everything up. I will just scrub and back wash for now until this occurs? Do you think that's the way to go?

Not sure why there is so much difference between the pool shops reading and mine and which is the more accurate either.

Now being through one test, I was also wondering if I can use double the water sample amount so I use half the testing reagents etc? Or will this also skew the readings?

Cheers.
 
It took 90 drops for your FC??!? Wow that is high. I would turn your SWG off for now and just use chlorine. But if your CYA is 90, then your slam FC level is 35, so you could be at that tomorrow, with a bit of sun anyway

I wonder if you contacted clear choice and asked if they may have a drop to ml conversion for you, ie 1 tsp is 5ml = 20 drop sor something like that, then you could add tsp worth until you are close to what you expect and then follow up with drops

I would also order an additional chlorine test, because you'll go through heaps at that rate

The pool shop FC test probably max's out at 10. which is why that one is different

Did you read and try the notes for the ch test for dealing with metals (its on the laminated card). Did it still turn purple with the extra reagent?

One other option is a partial drain and refill. This would lower you cya and your slam value. Also it would probably get rid of your metal issue from the copper (which may stain the pool and turn hair green). If you replace 33% of your pool water then your CYA should drop to about 60, with a slam of 24. You could drop it further by replacing 66% to about CYA of 30 for a slam of 12. You would need to add more cya back in though once your pool was clear of algae. Just a thought
 
Hi Caco,
Even with my Chlorine test results could be higher as I didnt let it go totally clear. I assumed when I measured for CC that if there was no colour change then CC would be 0. I just got off the pool calculator, as most of my target levels for the TA, CYA and Salt items require 20-30% reduction of water and refill with fresh water I think it is a good opportunity to scrub (just finished) and manual vacuum my pool to waste - backwash and rinse. Hopefully tomorrow the chlorine is as a sufficient level and I will test everything again. You think that would be the way to go. The other thing I was thinking of was moire drastic, which was to totally drain the pool, scrub and refill? What do you think?

And yes tried both ways for the CH on the laminated card and made no difference.

I am happy to test frequently up front and assumed I would have to to balance the pool initially and ease off when I become more confident.
 
Before we jump off the deep end and replace the water (like you I am thinking thats the way to go, mostly for CYA) I think we should check a few things first

Try running the ch test with the standard that was supplied, so we can eliminate testing error
Then run the ch, ta and ph test on your fill water and report these numbers
Are you on town supply or bore water or both? If so do you or your council have water tests (often online) that would show metal content. After all it may not be from the algaecide but your fill water
What would it cost to replace about half to two thirds of your pools water?
If you were to drain, do you have somewhere to drain all the water to?

I think a total drain would not be any more beneficial than a big water replacement. You also risk damage to your pool shell and/or plaster from heat exposure, pool floating out of the ground etc. And there would still be algae in teh system to fight, in pump, filter, plumbing and algae can replicate fast (like double in hours fast)

Sorry, lots of questions cos in middle of painting laundry, will check back through the evening for your answers though, as its gonna be a long one....
 
Aha...I wrote an email to Clear choice today asking what the Standard liquids were for...now I know. Will try it.

I am on both town mains supply and rain water tank collected from our roofs as we built a new house 1.5 years ago and this was a requirement. From what I know Sydney Water does not publish any testing or algecide treatment but will have to look into.

2 thirds of the pool water would be about $50. I have replaced about 15% at the moment and topping back up. I manual vacumed to. My drained is connected from the pool to the sewer as required so its clean to drain.

My pool is concrete fully waterproofed and built in rock. It has relief valved for hydrostatic pressure to avoid the pool floating away, but it is built well - as I built it :).

Dont worry about the questions mate, I really appreciate your help and time.

Cheers
 
Yeah I think the calcium standard for the test was 250ppm from off the top of my head
Sydney water does publish their test results, go to this page, type in your address and there you have it: http://www.sydneywater.com.au/SW/wa.../safe-drinking-water/water-analysis/index.htm

At $50 for a drain and refill I say lets go for it, if there are no metals in your fill water. Would your rain tank handle that amount if there is metals in the town supply (unlikely but.....)

I would still only drain to get to approx 30ppm on your cya, that would be ideal to fight the algae and then it would only be minor tweaking from there. Would likely be a lot cheaper too

Sounds like a cool job, frankly I am rather jealous you built it yourself. Can we have pics?

NP on the help, I consider it payback for all the great help and info I have found on here. Besides, lot more fun than watching tv ::epds::
 

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Thanks for the link - difficult to understand though for a simple person like myself :).

Did the CYA using the standard (50ppm) - something must be wrong as the symbol at the bottom did not disappear when the full amount of reagent was added? The othe thing is with the water levels indicated and the amount of reagent to apply, it does not reach the 30ppm mark on the tube...have I done something wrong?

I have 15,000 litre capacity with rain tanks, but we need a lot of rain to fill them first :).

I am a builder so building my own house had complexities which were usually budget versus emotion. The outcome was good though.

Photo below...its about 6m x 3m (hope one of the links work)
 
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Yeah the water tests look confusing, but really arent (water engineers making stuff look harder than it is, lol)
The tests report most things in mg/l (milligrams per litre). To convert to ppm it is 1 to 1. So if your report said that your copper was 2 mg/l thats the same as 2ppm copper
Also look at your iron content while you are there (although if it was an issue you would know it by now

We have had lots of rain lately, swap you for some sun?? :p
 
Love the pool, pretty tile. You must be stoked with it

Copper, should be more like 0.028. They all sound really high. Are you reading the purplish column on the far right? If you told me your suburb or posted a pic of the results I could double check them

The cya test is an easy/hard one. Fill to line one with pool water (or substitute the standard). Fill to line two with the detection agent. replace cap and mix for 30 seconds. that part is easy.

The important part of the CYA test is good indirect light. Thats why we say back to the sun, tube at waist height, hold it with two fingers at the top. So the tube is well lit, but not in bright sun

I squirt the mix to a line, glance at the logo, squirt to the next line glance, etc until it dissapears. When it disappears is a bit subjective, so I usually redo the test, with the same mix, by pouring it back into the mixing tube and then squirting back into the testing tube several times until I am happy with the result

  1. Find a well lit position. Hold the CYA viewing tube at waist level and, looking down into the tube, slowly pour the contents of the mixing tube in until the logo at the base of the tube disappears.
  2. Note: The accuracy of the test kit will depend on the brightness of the ambient light in which the test is taken. Strong Australian sunlight may cause an underestimate of your CYA level. Dim interior lighting may cause you to overestimate your CYA level.
  3. Look at the scale on the side of the CYA viewing tube. The water level on this scale indicates your CYA level.
Click to expand...
 
Ok, well that give me potts hill water delivery ( I used 1 Patterson St, which looks to be about the middle of concord)

Max values are:
FC 0.04ppm
TA 42ppm
ph 8.0

Total hardness of 61ppm, made up of CA 40ppm and Mg of 23ppm

Copper 0.05ppm
Lead <0.001ppm
Nickel <0.001
Iron 0.03ppm
Salt 15ppm

So all would look good to use this as your fill water
 
No worries, now about that sunshine..... ;)

Oh and about the cya test, mine gets to the 40ppm mark also. But it is a straight 50/50 dilution of pool water to reagent, so the only time I did test mine at 30ppm I added 1 measuring teaspoon each of reagent and pool water to the mix. I did then get a reading of 30ppm
 
Its been sunny all afternoon..have turned the filter off...couldnt figure out how to turn the sgw off and allow the filter to run just to circulate the water though. Will test again tomorrow afternoon with sun forecast most of the day

Sent from my SM-G928I using Tapatalk
 

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