Our Elks in ground, concrete pool has lost about 2/5 of its water since it got covered in early October. Last year, local pool service did something (I don't know what) concerning a valve in the main drain. Now they are talking about doing a "pressure test" for a $1,000 fee to see if the main drain line has a leak. What is that and if it does determine there is a leak in the main drain line, what, if anything, can be done to fix it without having to tear up the pool?
Elks Pool Leak
- Thread starter Vince-1961
- Start date
I assume this is an outdoor pool, right?
So, if it has lost 2/5 of the water the current level should be below all other openings. That should eliminate everything except the main drain.
Is the equipment below the normal water level in the pool? What I'm thinking is that you can use common sense to discover the source of the leak so I don't see the need for a pressure test.
So, if it has lost 2/5 of the water the current level should be below all other openings. That should eliminate everything except the main drain.
Is the equipment below the normal water level in the pool? What I'm thinking is that you can use common sense to discover the source of the leak so I don't see the need for a pressure test.
Yes, the water level is below the skimmers (and probably the return jets), leaving only the main drain as the culprit........unless the concrete itself has cracked somewhere, which I highly doubt. Outdoor pool, correct.
Assuming it is still leaking, that pretty much negates the need for a pressure test.
After THOROUGH and EXHAUSTIVE testing to make sure that's the problem, I see no alternative but to drain pool and plug the main drain. It's fine to do that just make sure that's the source of the leak
After THOROUGH and EXHAUSTIVE testing to make sure that's the problem, I see no alternative but to drain pool and plug the main drain. It's fine to do that just make sure that's the source of the leak
Because this is a public pool before you plug the main drain you need to check that you can operate a public pool without a main drain.
$1000 seem expensive for a presure test. Additionally I would try and determine where the leak is. Most are not in the pipes.
$1000 seem expensive for a presure test. Additionally I would try and determine where the leak is. Most are not in the pipes.
Yes, No-one has been in the pool area for months now, including me. Pool cover keeps going down. So, what testing do you suggest?
Try the bucket and food dye test as mentioned in this article Pool School - Leak Detection. Leaks can be very difficult to find
I won't be able to do this until we open the pool in a few months. The pool is 50' x 25', so I suppose I'll have to use a few drops of food coloring, assuming there is any water at all still left in the pool. Last year, it was almost empty by springtime. As I stated in the opening of this thread, we think the leak is in the main drain line.
Is a pressure test worth $1,000? That's an awful lot of money for our Elks Lodge.
Some of the older members just want to fill the pool in with dirt. Others suggest just covering the main drain. So, I checked our local health regulations and there's nothing in it about main drains that would apply to our "semi-public" pool. Therefore just covering it might be an option.
In the meantime, the pool company says all they did last year was replace the hydrostatic valve and did nothing with regard to any leak. It wants $1,000 to do a pressure test. The water level is now down to about 1/3, so I anticipate it'll be pretty much empty by the time spring arrives. I need some advice on what to do that doesn't cost a lot. The future of this pool is in doubt and I seem to be the only Elk who knows anything about pools, which is really frightening considering how little I know.
Water level has NOT dropped any further since January. Pool is about 1/3 full and one side of the cover has fallen into the pool towards the shallow end and it's ripped down the middle at the deep end. I don't know where the underground water table is, but it occurs to me that this could be the level at which the hydrostatic valve allows ground water to enter the pool. (Or is that statement laughably wrong? I admit to not understanding hydrostatic valves.)
Plug the main drain. That should eliminate the leak and you can get started cleaning and rejuvenating the pool.
Does the Club have the wherewithall to keep it maintained once it's fixed?
If by that statement they mean there was no leak and all they did was replace the valve then I would guess they put in a bad valve. If there was a leak and they were replacing the valve in the hope it would fix the leak and it did not then that is another matter. Since the pool has stopped draining the leak is either even with the current water level or more likely as you stated you have hit equilibrium with the water table. I agree with Dave main drain is most likely the problem if it's allowed (and it sounds like it is) I would plug the drain replace the valve one more time and hope for the best.
One last thought and this is based on nothing but my own paranoia but if it were my pool I would not want it an anywhere near equilibrium with the water table for any appreciable length of time. Water tables don't typically change and when they do it is not rapidly but still you are trusting a $20 valve to keep safe a pool worth tens of thousands. I would maintain at least a foot or two of water above where it drained to for insurance till you make a decision on what to do.
Vince,
So, it was not leaking and your pool company came out to 'fix" the hydrostatic valve, and now it is leaking???
I thought that most hydrostatic valves are at the bottom of the main drain..
I suspect they screwed up the installation and that is where the leak is. I'm guessing that the pressure between the ground water and pool water has equalized and that is why the leaking has slowed or stopped.
I would get a hold of real "pool company" to evaluate the situation...
Keep in mind that I have never even seen a hydrostatic valve......
Thanks,
Jim R.
edit.. Atttech.. you and I are on the same page, I just type a lot sloooower...
So, it was not leaking and your pool company came out to 'fix" the hydrostatic valve, and now it is leaking???
I thought that most hydrostatic valves are at the bottom of the main drain..
I suspect they screwed up the installation and that is where the leak is. I'm guessing that the pressure between the ground water and pool water has equalized and that is why the leaking has slowed or stopped.
I would get a hold of real "pool company" to evaluate the situation...
Keep in mind that I have never even seen a hydrostatic valve......
Thanks,
Jim R.
edit.. Atttech.. you and I are on the same page, I just type a lot sloooower...
Yes, we have the funds to maintain the pool, just not to make any large expenditures on it. I still have no clue what the pool company is talking about when it says a "pressure test", but from the comments ya'll have made, methinks it best to have the hydrostatic valve inspected or replaced, especially if they are inexpensive. I'm a fairly decent D.I.Y.'er, so is that something that I could do one my own or is it best just to pay the pool company?
ATTECH
ATTECH
I'm a fairly decent D.I.Y.'er, so is inspecting and potentially replacing a hydrostatic valve that something that I could do on my own or is it best just to pay the pool company?
HELP. Got pool totally empty (Water level had gone down to 1/3 full over the winter), clean and grate removed from the main drain, which revealed a space equal to about a cubic foot, 12 x 12 x 12, with a hydrostatic valve and the opening to a pipe. I inspected the wall where the water had leveled off over the winter and found no cracks in the concrete to account for a leak. I inspected the hydrostatic valve. The o-ring is still soft and smooth, looks like new. (It's only 2 years old.) The spring functions well. No water was coming up through it due the the spring holding it closed. When I held it open, water flowed into the area, so I propped the hydrostatic valve open and waited to see how high the water level would rise, which was about 3/4 of the aforesaid cubic foot. I was unable to observe any flow from valve to pipe as it was nice clean water.
The conclusion I reached was either a) I found the natural underground water table, or b) water was still flowing through the hydrostatic valve, but the pipe was leaking at an equal rate so as to maintain the 3/4 full level of the aforesaid cubic foot. At this point, I "unpropped" the hydrostatic valve and allowed it to close under the force of the spring. I watched it for a while and the water level did not rise or fall. Therefore I marked the water level, left and came home to post these results.
Now for the question: When I go back and find that the water level in this cubic foot area has risen, fallen or remained the same, what conclusion should I draw?
The conclusion I reached was either a) I found the natural underground water table, or b) water was still flowing through the hydrostatic valve, but the pipe was leaking at an equal rate so as to maintain the 3/4 full level of the aforesaid cubic foot. At this point, I "unpropped" the hydrostatic valve and allowed it to close under the force of the spring. I watched it for a while and the water level did not rise or fall. Therefore I marked the water level, left and came home to post these results.
Now for the question: When I go back and find that the water level in this cubic foot area has risen, fallen or remained the same, what conclusion should I draw?
UPDATE: In the day and a half since last post, the water level in the cubic foot space has gone up by about an inch. Anyone got any ideas? Help.
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