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Thread: Garage floor coating

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    DaveNJ's Avatar
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    Garage floor coating

    I am in the process of building a garage. If anyone has experience with floor coatings please share. The site listed is one I am considering.

    http://www.ironitecoatings.com/

    Thanks
    Dave
    IG 18x36 oval vinyl, Spill over spa, Northstar 2hp-2spd, 2.5" piping, S310T 500lb Sand filter, 400k gas heater, AutoPilot SWCG
    http://www.tftestkits.net/

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    From_Arizona's Avatar
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    My last home, I used the Home Depot "do-it-yourself" gray coating with flecks. It actually went on fairly well and had you etch the floor before application to ensure it stuck. Unfortunately the flecks weren't even since I did not know how much to apply...heavier in beginning and lighter as I was running out. No tire peel was experienced, and we do live in a hot climate. The no tire peel impressed me from a inexpensive product. The only thing missing was the high shine that the professional applications take on.

    My current home, I had the coating professionally applied. I have one spot where hot tire peel occurred. The contractor warranty's the work so it will be repaired. I was a bit upset though since he did not fully seal my joints where the stemwall meets the slab and in fact forgot that I had asked him to apply on stem wall, below the sheetrock. The look is much glossier than the do-it-yourself and there was no way I was going to do an 1800 sq ft garage by myself.

    Things to look for:

    *If your garage gets full day sun - make sure that they use a UV safe product so it does not change color
    * If you do a lot of mechanical work or work with small screws, nuts, etc...you may want to avoid the flecks in the base coat. The flecks at the last house drove my DH crazy if he dropped a spring or screw. We would have to get on our hands and knees to try to ind it amongst the flecks on the floor.
    * If you choose to go with a single color, make sure to ask for some non-skid stuff on top since this can be extremely slippery when wet. I think they use a silica sand for non-skid, it retains the gloss, just adds some resistance when wet.
    *Make sure they seal the joints with an elastic sealer. Find out how full the joints will be filled. My do-it-yourself, my joints were quite full and helped me clean the floor. The joints in the middle of the garage are filled, but barely and still leave deep grooves for stuff to collect.
    *if you have stem-walls that you want coated, make sure it is included in their standard price - many have this as an option and add to their bid.
    * What is their warranty? Are there temp restrictions to application time? This is especially tricky in AZ since some application products advise not to use above certain temps....even though the contractor may warranty it, will the product manufacturer back it if it is not applied correctly?
    *Plan to not be able to park in your garage for at leats 72 hours or more to allow the product to cure
    1980's Shasta built 30,000 gal inground diving pool. Pebble-tec interior. Pentair DE Filter. In ground pop-ups. Hayward Navigator sweeper.

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    Pardon me for butting in, but Julie, did you use the 1 part Epoxy from HD or the 2 part Epoxy?

    I'm considering doing my garage floor.

    I've used the HD 2 part epoxy before, but not for a garage floor and cannot remember if it was as high of a sheen as the pro- jobs I've seen. I used it when doing the decor in an industrial theme for a boys bedroom. Gosh, it turned out great for that.

    I'm not so concerned about the sheen for my garage but I'd sure like to use the one that doesn't seem to have hot tire peel. I think HD also sells a high gloss top coat for garage floors, but not sure if it can be used over the epoxies.
    Buggs

    14,000 gallon, in ground, plaster, free form, play pool.
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    From_Arizona's Avatar
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    Hey - this forum is great - allows us to learn from each other
    I used the two part epoxy from HD....I would wait until it gets a bit cooler to apply. I made the mistake and appplied in 100 degree temp and it went off extremely fast. There has to be a compound that you can apply on top to get the high shine, I just never pursued it. When I did the HD, I bought the kit for a two car garage and completed my large single car garage with it with none left over. I think the heat and the fact the product was curing faster than anticipated did not allow the product to spread as well as it should - just an FYI.

    Edited to add - for the joints in the concrete and where the slab meets the stem-wall, I used tubes of concrete filler that had some elasticity in it to seal them really well for the seamless look.
    1) First day prep - wash & scrub floor (used an acid to etch concrete) - let dry overnight or until no moisture is found
    2) Day two - filled all joints and stem wall edges with elastic concrete joint filler from tubes and taped all edges to ensure I only got epoxy on floor
    3) Day three applied product to floor
    1980's Shasta built 30,000 gal inground diving pool. Pebble-tec interior. Pentair DE Filter. In ground pop-ups. Hayward Navigator sweeper.

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    wardsntx's Avatar
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    I used the Rustoleum kits from Lowes and Home depot. Worked great....
    Jay
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    I used an epoxy from Coronado, it is called Amine Adduct water based epoxy. Instead of flecks, I used silica sand mixed with my 1st coat. The acid etching is crucial to the process, but since this was water based epoxy, I was told I did not have to wait overnight to apply the paint.
    7500 Gallon Kayak, 1HP Sta-Rite Pump, Pool Pilot DIG-36 SWG, AquaCal H100 Heatpump

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    Quote Originally Posted by From_Arizona
    Hey - this forum is great - allows us to learn from each other
    I used the two part epoxy from HD....I would wait until it gets a bit cooler to apply. I made the mistake and appplied in 100 degree temp and it went off extremely fast. There has to be a compound that you can apply on top to get the high shine, I just never pursued it. When I did the HD, I bought the kit for a two car garage and completed my large single car garage with it with none left over. I think the heat and the fact the product was curing faster than anticipated did not allow the product to spread as well as it should - just an FYI.

    Edited to add - for the joints in the concrete and where the slab meets the stem-wall, I used tubes of concrete filler that had some elasticity in it to seal them really well for the seamless look.
    1) First day prep - wash & scrub floor (used an acid to etch concrete) - let dry overnight or until no moisture is found
    2) Day two - filled all joints and stem wall edges with elastic concrete joint filler from tubes and taped all edges to ensure I only got epoxy on floor
    3) Day three applied product to floor
    Julie, thanks for the info, tips and techniques. Yes, I think I will plan this is a fall or winter project.
    Buggs

    14,000 gallon, in ground, plaster, free form, play pool.
    Sta-Rite Max-E-Glass with a 1.5 hp Emerson motor
    WaterCo Micron High Rate sand filter S750 490 lb, 4883 sq ft - using ZeoBest
    In floor Polaris cleaning system
    Blue Diamond robot for those after storm days when I can't wait overnight for the in floor to clean it.

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    Marillion Fan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wardsntx
    I used the Rustoleum kits from Lowes and Home depot. Worked great....
    I did my finished basement with these kits very easy to use and is holding up very well while having many young adults staying over with my son.
    18x33 15700 Gal Oval Above Ground
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