Normal operation spec. of the Aqua Rite

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Y

yugfff

0
May 20, 2009
10
Montreal, Canada
waste,

If you have your field repair manual can you please tell me what is the normal operation spec. of the Aqua Rite.

Mine is only 3 years old but I just started it and it does wierd things. I can have it run the entire night with no errors message and the next day it shows Chexk Salt and Inspect Cell solid lights.

My salt is at 3000ppm but the temp. is around 60°F.

How can I know if my cell is defective, I only have 2 weeks still of guaranted.

Thanks,
 
Re: calibrating an Aqua Rite

yugfff said:
waste,

If you have your field repair manual can you please tell me what is the normal operation spec. of the Aqua Rite.

Mine is only 3 years old but I just started it and it does wierd things. I can have it run the entire night with no errors message and the next day it shows Chexk Salt and Inspect Cell solid lights.

My salt is at 3000ppm but the temp. is around 60°F.

How can I know if my cell is defective, I only have 2 weeks still of guaranted.

Thanks,
Click to expand...

Welcome to TFP!!

Inside the door of your unit is the recommended volts and amps currently being drawn, use the diagnostic button to confirm that you are operating within the desired range :)
 
Re: calibrating an Aqua Rite

I believe that the inspect cell light will come on every three months no matter what. That is the maintenance interval that they suggest.

The check salt light may come on due to the low water temperature. Current is reduced with low water temp and can yield a low salt reading which may trip the indicator.
 
Re: calibrating an Aqua Rite

Thank you Guys,

It look like it's now operating, but it's weird I went to the shop to get my salt level analyzed on tuesday and they told me I was at 3000ppm, I returned yeasterday and they told me I was at 3800ppm. The reading of my Aqua Rite unit is 3200ppm, wich one should I believed?

Also is it normal that sometimes the unit has some time out, even if I push it to 100% or surchlorinate nothing is appenning, but a few minutes later it does work.

Thanks for your help,
 
Re: calibrating an Aqua Rite

Generally the AquaChek salt test strips and Taylor chloride test are the most accurate. The meters in SWGs, while variable are second best. And pool stores are a distant third. There are some good pool stores that give good test results, but there are many bad ones and it is difficult to tell the difference.
 
Re: calibrating an Aqua Rite

R.E. - the unit taking a minute to respond to diagnostic button pushes:

If the system has just been turned on it takes a minute for the 'no flow' light to stop blinking and you'll get no result on the instant salinity (button push #5), also once the unit is turned on, it takes ~ 30 seconds before you hear a slight 'click' which means it's now trying to generate - after that you should see the volts, amps and instant salinity changing 8)
 
Re: calibrating an Aqua Rite

Me again,

I'm still not sure if my unit works properly, normally I keep it at 30% and I get the right chlore level, now it's at 60% and my chlore level is still low. I check the unit and the numbers are the following;

25,7 and 6,08 when the system is supposed to generate chlore, is it normal operation, and don't have any warning lites.

My alcalinity is a little high and my PH is also a little hihg, is there any possibility that it it affecting the chlore production ?

Thanks for your help,

Guy
 

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Re: calibrating an Aqua Rite

So assuming a rectangular pool of 25000 gallons, you will be adding about 0.174 ppm of chlorine per hour with a setting of 60%. To get 1 ppm added per day, will require 6 hours @ 60% of run time.

What is your run time?

Also, have you checked cc? You could be fighting an algae bloom and not know it.
 
Re: calibrating an Aqua Rite

I'm not sure to understand the meaning of run time, my filter and salt generators are running 24 hours a day,.

I'm sorry what is the cc ?

This morning I started the super chlorination mode and actually my chlore level is high. So I suppose my cell is working fine and I have a chemical level balance problem.
 
Re: calibrating an Aqua Rite

Yes, run time the length of time you run your pump. 24 hours per day should be putting 4 ppm of chlorine per day into the pool.

CC is combined chlorine. As opposed to Free Chlorine (FC). A measurable CC level usually means that you are probably fighting an algae bloom or something else which would use up the chlorine pretty fast.

It would be helpful to get your test results for FC, CC, PH, TA (total alkalinity), CH (calcium hardness) and CYA (Cyanuric acid). If your CYA level is low, then the sun could be burning off the chlorine.

It is hard to know for sure why you have a low chlorine level but given the amount of time you are running the SWG, it should be quite high so something in the chemistry may be off.
 
Re: calibrating an Aqua Rite

Hi,

I got my water analyzed this morning and those are the results;

Free chlorine: 1.5
Total chlorine: 3
PH: 8.2
Total alkalinity: 230
Hardness: 210
Stabilizer: 0
Copper: 0
Salt: 3200

At the pool store they recommend me to put 18kg of PH- but before I do anything I'll wait for your recommendation since last time they told me to add 20Kg of alkalinity+ and now I'm over.

Thanks,
 
Yes, you should lower the PH. You never want to allow the PH to go above 8.0, and preferably keep it at 7.8 or lower.

I can't confirm the quantity, which sounds kind of high, without knowing the size of your pool. You should put some basic specs for you pool into your signature.
 
18 kg of PH Minus is way too much to add at one time. I wouldn't add more than about 3 kg of PH Minus at a time. You don't want the PH going below 7.0 at any point. You can use my Pool Calculator, see the link in my signature, to figure out how much PH Minus to add (Pool Calculator calls it dry acid). But for large PH changes, like the one you need to do now, you should only add half of the calculated amount, wait an hour, and test again to see where the PH ended up.
 
Besides lowering PH which will help the chlorine work better, you also have a couple of other issues.

CYA needs to be in the 60-80 ppm range which is probably why you can't hold any chlorine. Also, combined chlorine needs to be eliminated via shocking (use liquid chlorine instead of the SWG).
 
Guys,

I really need help,

I bought Muriatic Acid 20% and I gave a first treatment like this;

1. I stopped the filter
2. I put 2 liters of acid spread in 4 corners of the pool (in column) and I letf it for 12 hours.
3. I started the filter after 12 hours.
4. I did the same again after 48 hours.

My Alkalinity level pass from 230 to 200ppm.

I did the same process again and now my Alkalinity level is back at 220ppm.

How can I get it lower, did I do something wrong.

At the pool store they told me this morning to put 28 liters of Muriatic Acid in one shot. On the Muraitic Acid container they say not to put more than 2 liters for the size of my pool.

Thanks for your help,
 

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