I own a Taylor K-2006 test kit, and I'm trying to figure out what to use for daily chlorine testing. I'm going through lots of reagents and I don't think it's the most economical approach. What is recommended? Are there any test strips that are sufficient for daily use (I will be using the Taylor kit weekly)? Any other cheap tests?
Daily FC testing -- what to use?
- Thread starter singerteacher
- Start date
It's the chlorine test used in the cheap liquid reagent kits like you get at Walmart or that most pool stores handle. It's also the test in the Taylor K-1000 kit.
The OTO test is the drops that turn yellow. If you get good at distinguishing the colors, that's good enough for daily checking of levels up to 5. Some of us have a hard time with the colors; I know what 1 looks like, and 5+, but in between they all look the same. Using the FAS-DPD on pool + spa everyday, I run through a bottle of powder in a few months. I really need to be more laid back about my testing...
--paulr
--paulr
I don't think those test will work for me, as I'm supposed to keep my FC at 6ppm, and they only go to 5ppm. What about the fancy silver test strips?
The best bet is to use the FAS-DPD test you are using but work with a 10ml sample rather than 25ml. With 10ml, you multiply the drops by 0.5 rather than 0.2, certainly good enough if you are aiming for >5ppm. That cuts the reagent a good bit.
I've never had anyone provide a good reason to test chlorine at 0.2ppm resolution. It's just a waste of reagents to do that. Or being a testing-uber-geek. :-D
--paulr
--paulr
The idea is to test with the FAS-DPD test kit enough to get a sense of how much chlorine you need to add to the pool every day. Then test six days a week with the simple OTO test just to be sure there is chlorine in the water, and on the seventh day you test with FAS-DPD to check the real level and adjust the amount of chlorine you are adding to the pool.
mrafal said:
It cuts the liquid reagent, but not the powder reagent. You use 2 little scoops for each kind of test. I'd still like to find a cheaper solution. Are there more accurate test strips available, that specialize in chlorine only?
No, there aren't any test strips that are reliable enough.
The FAS-DPD chlorine test is fairly inexpensive, $20 to $30 for enough reagents to last perhaps three years of routine (once a week) usage.
The FAS-DPD chlorine test is fairly inexpensive, $20 to $30 for enough reagents to last perhaps three years of routine (once a week) usage.
Sounds like there isn't anything other than using up FAS-DPD reagents for daily chlorine testing over 6ppm. Bummer. 
Well, you can use the OTO test and make sure it's always darker than 5. If you're specifically trying to maintain a 6+ level then yes you need to use FAS-DPD. But that should only be while you're shocking. A normal maintenance level is likely down in the range an OTO test can handle.
--paulr
--paulr
I suppose you could use OTO by diluting the sample 50/50 with distilled water to get the chlorine in the range of the OTO test.
PaulR said:
My CYA is 50ppm, so I need to maintain FC at 6ppm per the TFP Chlorine/CYA Chart. Don't want to do the drain/refill routine to get my CYA lower, and don't want issues with algae by getting too close to my minimum FC.
Can you explain the diluting method? That might work ...
I would not even worry about dilutions! You are micromanaging. Use your FAS-DPD test then test with an OTO kit and note the color. After a short time you will be able to recognize it. The daily test is just to see if there is approx enough chlorine in your pool. If your CYA is 50 ppm then you should be fine with FC as low as 4 ppm for a a few days or so. It's not rocket science. It's a pool. Use the OTO test daily and use the big kit weekly (monthly for CYA and CH) and you are good to go!
I would suggest getting a Taylor K-1000 if you don't have one. It's the best OTO kit out there.
I would suggest getting a Taylor K-1000 if you don't have one. It's the best OTO kit out there.
To use the dilution method, you test a sample that is 50% pool water, 50% distilled water. Then multiply the result by two.
waterbear said:
I will buy an OTO kit and aim at keeping FC at 5ppm. That should be okay, right? I really don't want to get algae again ... and I'm getting it when my FC goes under 4ppm. That's why I'm micromanaging ... :blah:
I am in complete agreement with waterbear on dilutions.
I have tried it on the OTO test and found the results very, very dubious. I would never put any credibility in it.
I wouldn't even consider it on the CYA test method.....that test is indistinct enough as it is.
That said, I suppose they are better than nothing but a very incorrect result can lead to a lot of incorrect assumptions.
I have tried it on the OTO test and found the results very, very dubious. I would never put any credibility in it.
I wouldn't even consider it on the CYA test method.....that test is indistinct enough as it is.
That said, I suppose they are better than nothing but a very incorrect result can lead to a lot of incorrect assumptions.
Hear, hear. I have suggested dilutions but only in two situations:
- the OTO or DPD drop test is all you have and FC is way high; this is always (I hope) accompanied by a recommendation for the FAS-DPD test.
- CYA is clearly 100+.
You lose accuracy with a dilution, but it lets you tell the difference between CYA 110 and 180, which is the difference between a 1/2 and 2/3 drain, so I think it's still worth doing.
--paulr
- the OTO or DPD drop test is all you have and FC is way high; this is always (I hope) accompanied by a recommendation for the FAS-DPD test.
- CYA is clearly 100+.
You lose accuracy with a dilution, but it lets you tell the difference between CYA 110 and 180, which is the difference between a 1/2 and 2/3 drain, so I think it's still worth doing.
--paulr