I need to shock my pool. cc-1 and fc-5 with 8 gallons of bleach(cya of 80) should I turn the swg off while doing this? Also we are getting rain showers over the next few days should I wait to shock after the rain or do it now?
should I turn my swg off
- Thread starter ethany
- Start date
You need to use something other than the SWG for the initial shock. But, you can leave the SWG on and use it to help you maintain shock level. Just be aware that you need to turn the SWG off if you are doing an overnight FC loss test.
Shocking is easier in the rain, since less chlorine is lost to sunlight. Though, a really major storm might be a reason to put things off.
Shocking is easier in the rain, since less chlorine is lost to sunlight. Though, a really major storm might be a reason to put things off.
Well I put in 8 gallons of bleach last night and tested this evening. I stopped testing for fc at 10ppm because I read here somewhere after 10ppm the reading is not accurate.
Not sure what cc is,I followed the directions and after a few drops and stay pink I just gave up and thought since the fc is so high maybe cc test would not be accurate also.
Just a side note we did get a storm here in nj all morning into the afternoon so i am not sure how that affected the water chemistry.
I also tested for ch since I put in some cal elevator the other day. Yesterday it was 240 since I have a swg I was shooting for 250 so I added another pound . Today when I tested,when I got to 240-250 instead of going blue it went clear, so I don't know what to make of that.
Also my ta was 90 which according to water balance for swg its within range but on the high side,should I be concerned with that?
By the way I just brushed the pool and it looks clear better than yesterday.
Not sure what cc is,I followed the directions and after a few drops and stay pink I just gave up and thought since the fc is so high maybe cc test would not be accurate also.
Just a side note we did get a storm here in nj all morning into the afternoon so i am not sure how that affected the water chemistry.
I also tested for ch since I put in some cal elevator the other day. Yesterday it was 240 since I have a swg I was shooting for 250 so I added another pound . Today when I tested,when I got to 240-250 instead of going blue it went clear, so I don't know what to make of that.
Also my ta was 90 which according to water balance for swg its within range but on the high side,should I be concerned with that?
By the way I just brushed the pool and it looks clear better than yesterday.
reebok
0
what you read was pH reads incorrectly high with chlorine >10ppm. the fas-dpd chlorine test can test for chlorine >50ppm. your cc test is irrelevant since you didn't do the fc test. try again and stick with it this time. it will be obvious when the pink solution goes clear.
Ok,I did another test:
fc-18
cc-.5
ta-90
ch-250(question about color change,at 250 it turned light blue. Should it be darker or just a change in color)
cya-80 (should there be total whiteout or faint black just to where is a faint outline?
ph-7.5
I set the swg to lowest setting.
fc-18
cc-.5
ta-90
ch-250(question about color change,at 250 it turned light blue. Should it be darker or just a change in color)
cya-80 (should there be total whiteout or faint black just to where is a faint outline?
ph-7.5
I set the swg to lowest setting.
On the CYA test, there should be a total white out, no sign of the black dot.
On the CH test, any shade of blue is fine. The rule is that you keep adding drops as long as the color continues changing. The final drop, that doesn't change the color any further, does not get counted.
On the CH test, any shade of blue is fine. The rule is that you keep adding drops as long as the color continues changing. The final drop, that doesn't change the color any further, does not get counted.
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