Inherited pool

stona

0
Oct 17, 2016
9
AZ
Hi everybody,

I've been browsing the forums for a week or two and decided to join in :) Here's the backstory, and a long post:

We inherited the pool with the house about 10 months ago and have had weekly pool service for the past 7 or 8 months. The pool has its share of problems, leaking filter, leaking pump, broken ATO, old plaster etc. After skipping a few cleanings and a green tinged pool, the PB came and shocked it 4 weeks ago (ish), came back 3 weeks ago and cleaned, then refused to come until we repaired the leaking filter. They quoted us $1200 to replace it lol. The previous PB was flakey as well so I decided to take over the work myself and I plan on addressing the problems.

Item 1: Pool Chemistry
I've been using TF-100 test kits and here are my measurements, all taken in the evening:

Oct 14
FC 15.5ppm
pH 7.5
TA 120
CH 750ppm
CYA 70-80ppm
CC 0ppm
Removed the floating doser (it still had some partially dissolved tablets in it)

Oct 15
FC 15.5ppm
CC 0ppm
CYA 80ppm

Oct 16
FC 16.5ppm
CC 0ppm
CYA 80ppm

I haven't added anything to the pool. The only change has been on Oct 14 I removed the doser and on Oct 16 I cleaned the filter and ran the pump with the clean filter. So my questions are:

a) Why hasn't FC dropped....and is the increase on Oct 16 error? In retrospect I should have taken a second reading. We'll see tonight's reading.
b) Should I do a partial drain to bring down CYA?
c) The water is cloudy and I think it's from suspended particles. It was clear and then I brushed the walls and ran the filter....but obviously the filter isn't working right.
d) CH looks awful high, but we also have really hard water here. What's normal for Phoenix pools?

Item 2: Leaking filter
It was leaking water heavily from between the tank and base above the inlet so I took the tank off. The filter was completely green and had a thick sludge build up at the bottom. I cleaned the filter, reassembled with the air line and a new O-ring lubricated with vaseline. It continued to leak heavily in the same location. I've tried rotating the tank, reseating the O-ring, rotating the filter cartridge, and rotating the clamp. None have any effect and the leak is the same amount at the same location. I don't see any cracks in the base.

The filter itself is damaged and should be replaced but this won't address the leak issue. My best guess is the base has a warp in it that I can't see or the clamp needs replacing. But at this point, I'm looking at $90 for a new filter and whatever other replacement parts. Should I just buy a new cartridge filter and oversize it while I'm at it? I'll need to relocate the filter if I oversize since I don't have enough space for a larger diameter filter.

Item 3: Leak pump at outlet
Slow leak, and something I'll address once I get the pool chemistry and filter sorted out. Also will replace with 2 speed motor.

Item 4: ATO
Another thing to fix at a later date. Currently shut off.

Thanks for reading!
 
Welcome To TFP... A great place to be... :lovetfp:

For the filter leak, it could be you are just not getting the band tight enough. It takes a lot more than just being snug.

Can you post two pics... one showing the ring connection nut when leaking and another one showing your equipment pad.

I may be the only one on this site that does not know, but I have no idea what an ATO is...

Good job on getting the TF-100.. FC can't got up on its own, so either a testing error or something is still adding chlorine.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
a) Keep checking. I had to cut my SWG off for a while with the cooler weather and it now down to 1/3 rate in about the last 1.5 months.
b) You can. Only really helps if you need to SLAM. You can do it around Feb. before we start to warm back up.
d) Check the CH of your fill water. AZ water can be high. It is normal here and is no problem if you keep your pH in range.
 
Hey guys,

I'll get some pics up of the filter in the next few days. As for the clamp, the instructions on the filter state it should be tightened till the ends are 1/4"-1/2" apart and to 30 in-lb torque (I don't have a torque wrench at the moment). I have it down to around 1/4" gap and I was thumping the clamp all around as I tightened it (it shifted as I thumped it and I was able to tighten the clamp further). I kept thumping around and tightening until I felt it wasn't tightening further with additional thumps lol.

ATO - automatic top off....I don't know if it's the same acronym in the pool world but in hobby aquariums that's what they use.

The equipment pad does have cracks in it. I would love to tear the whole pad out, pour a new bigger one, and install a new filter and pump/motor in one go but have budget constraints.

I'll update this thread with the latest chem readings tonight. Good idea on measuring the source water - I'll do that as well.

Thanks
 
While it won't necessarily cause immediate damage, you'll want to avoid the use of petroleum products on o-rings and other rubber parts.

I was going to comment on the same thing, but a review of the Sta-Rite filter manual shows it actually calls out Vaseline as an "approved" O-Ring lubrication.. :stirpot: I'll stick with standard pool lube..

Jim R.
 
Yes, the filter instructions said vaseline was acceptable. I'll get a legitimate grease soon.

You won't believe it but my FC readings were 17.5ppm and 17ppm this evening. Didn't get a chance to test CH of my tap.

I've been bringing the pool water inside in a plastic cup and letting it sit while i run errands. Could this throw off results? I doubt it since it sits at most an hour inside.

Thanks!
 
I do have to ask.........the cup you have the pool water in..........is it the same cup you use to add chlorine? We had one member that did that. Of course it "added" FC from the residue.

Let us see your equipment pad so we can see what is what.

Is your floater OUT of the pool or just closed?

Best to do the tests asap after you take it out of the pool.

Kim:kim:
 

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Hi Kim,


No, in fact I haven't added any chlorine. I simply removed the floating dispenser from the water and it's sitting on the patio. When I took it out there were still some undissolved tablets in there.


I'll do the tests today at the poolside.

pics of equipment area
 

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Maybe there is a thread on o-ring grease somewhere.

Yes there is, in forums about: pools, boats, cars, trucks, cycles, plumbing, sprinklers, grilling, and I'm only guessing on this one, but I'd bet on Hot Air Ballooning too. :D

There's some controversy from the general public, but it would probably go away if mfr's would stop recommending petroleum grease on rubber. Last winter I waged a frustrating battle against a leaky 20 year old plastic tubing T-fitting that turned out to be caused a hardened o-ring. (it never lost its shape, so I replaced and fought everything surrounding it until I picked up a 59¢ replacement)
 
Stona,

Even if you can't do it all at once, I recommend that you plan on replacing the filter with a much bigger one, and replacing your single speed pump with a variable speed, or a two speed pump. Doing this will allow you run your pump at a low RPM most of the time, saving on your electrical bill, and having a bigger filter will mean you will only have to clean the cartridge about twice a year, saving you time.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
You're absolutely right, I should replace the equipment while I'm at it...just reluctant. Does pool equipment ever go on sale? (Black Friday?).

Anyways, here's what's under the black box. I'm a bit confused since I thought power came up the black line but I also see lines down the green conduit. *shrug*
 

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Hi,

Took two FC readings today and both showed 13ppm.

I did some research and I'm thinking of replacing the pump with a Pentair 3/4hp 2speed Superflo model 34111 (need to confirm I have 115V @ the pump) and using a 325sqft hayward or pentair cartridge filter. Does this sound good for my pool? If I have 230V I would use the 1hp model (model 340042).

Anybody with thoughts on the powerbox Kim pointed out? We have a pad where old spa/hot tub equipment used to be and it also has the same set up - i.e. mainline coming in and a power box on a separate line.

Last question - Pentair or Hayward 325sqft filter opinions? Pentair costs a fair bit more but I often see people say you can't go wrong with either.

Thanks!

Edit:

What about these pump options...the Hayward Maxflo (SP2307X102) can be had for around $400 and the Super Pumper (SP2607X102S) for a similar price to the Pentair Superflo (~$480).
 
The Maxflo and Superflo are similar pumps. Same with the filters. You'll be happy with either brand. 3/4hp, 2 speed is a good option.

In that box you have 110v, not 220v. What black line? Is there black conduit coming in to the gray box? What is in the gray box? An outlet? Looks to me like 110v supply is coming in the green conduit which feeds the outlet below it and then on to the pump timer.
 
That's a pool light junction box, all the electrical comes through what looks like a gfci recptacle underneath. One conduit line to pool timer the other to pool light

- - - Updated - - -

Those sta-rite filter bases are known to leak out the bottom. When you put back together make sure everything is dry around the filter, start up and check to see where water is coming from
 

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