Newbie with cloudy pool

[Beulah May]

Just moved into my new home after taking 3 months to close. 24 foot Pool was completely green, frogs tadpoles and all. I shocked it vacuumed it, added baking soda, vacuumed. I can now see the bottom at times. Problem is pool is still very cloudy.Trip to pool store and these are my numbers
FAC 2.23
Total Chlorine 2.32
Combined Chlorine .09
Total Alkalinity 85
PH 7.4
Calcium Hardness 160
Cyanuric Acid 18

It is a salt water pool with sand filter not sure how to read machine or know salt level

I will be closing it soon with help from pool man but I want to be able to do the rest myself.

Please help

 

[MarianParoo]

I think your request for help was missed, so I am going to bump it with this reply. The Blackhawks start their opener soon and I don't have time. Someone should chime in soon. If not, I will later.

 

[MarianParoo]

Ugh. we lost...

If you want to close soon, and it is an above ground pool, see this: Pool School - Closing (Winterizing) Your Above Ground Pool "Shock" level is determined here: Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart If you close soon, you will just have to deal with clearing up the pool in the spring.

If you have 2-1/2 to 4 weeks before closing, that would be different.

Below are a few starter links to info about TFP methods. If you like the sound of things, and want to go this route, be sure to get a good testkit first (also linked below). I love my Taylor K-2006C.

Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry

Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals

Pool School - Test Kits Compared

 

[Texas Splash]

Hello and welcome to TFP! Without a doubt, before you are able to do any productive work on the pool, you have to break-free from pool store testing and obtain either a TF-100 (XL Option) or Taylor K-2006C test kit. You must have one of those to properly test the chemicals at the frequency and higher levels required to clean your pool. I would also suggest ordering the "Magnetic Speed Stir". My weapon of choice for testing is the TF-100 (link below).

To clean green water you'll need that test kit and to follow the "SLAM" instructions (link also below). It's not and overnight process, and keep in mind that most pool store products and advice either do not work or are way overpriced. We'll help keep this simple and within your budget. I agree that if you have time, clearing that green away would make spring opening much better for you.

Also, please add your pool info to your signature by going to the top of the TFP web page (just under the Pool School button) and select "SETTINGS". On the next page look to the left for a menu bar that says, “MY SETTINGS” and go to "EDIT SIGNATURE" to enter your pool and equipment info there. Or you can click EDIT YOUR SIGNATURE. It will help us later. This link may also help you: Pool School - Read This BEFORE You Post. Don’t forget to include your test kit in the signature.

Let us know what you would like to do (treat now or wait) and we'll be glad to help. Nice to have you with us.

 

[xyz]

If the salt water chlorine generator (SWG) is showing green lights, suggest you not worry about salt levels now. Since salt doesn't evaporate, it should stay stable for a long time. If it is high from too much shocking, nothing bad will happen, as long as the SWG is showing green status lights. It checks for the salt to be within it's acceptable range, and turns off if it is not acceptable.

CYA is very low compared to the TFP recommendation for SWGs. however a lower level will make it easier to SLAM. But 18 is too low even for non SWG pools. The more knowledgeable people here will improve my recommendations, but I'd suggest you bump up the CYA to 40 (30-50) so you don't lose too much FC to the sun while you SLAM. Once you have finished your SLAM, you will want to move CYA up to the 70-80 TFP recommendation for SWG.

To step up to 40: do this by adding granular stabilizer (CYA). To figure out how much to go from your 18 to 40 use pool math (one of the 4 big buttons up top of this page. Pool math is your holy grail. It will tell you everything.

Here is CYA if you are unsure. Not sure it is a great price, but pretty close to what you need if it is a 20k gal pool.

Amazon.com : Pool Mate 1-2607B Stabilizer and Conditioner for Swimming Pools, 7-Pound : Patio, Lawn Garden

Update your signature with your pool size in gallons, location, equipment, etc (your welcome message suggests what to put and how to do it). But for now I'll assume you have a 20,000 gallon pool. If you don't know how many gallons, TFP has a pool volume calculator.

So assuming you are 20k gal, pool math told me you need139 oz to go from 18-40 CYA. Or 139/16=8.7 lbs.

hopefully you have your TF-100 over size kit on its way. If not, order that now; you will use a lot of the FC reagent, which is why I'm suggesting the oversized kit.

Once your kit arrives, start your SLAM. Follow the directions. Follow the directions. In the mean time, clean your filter. It is going to need to filter out all that trash.

Did i I mention to follow the SLAM directions? ;-). It will take days to even weeks depending on how bad it is.

Report back each day on your measurements and you will get lots of good guidance. If you follow the directions, you will never have to shock/SLAM your pool again. Pretty cool.

You are are going to need a bunch of bleach for the SLAM. Cheapest is get it at your local store. Just plain generic bleach, not any of the slow pour or oe fumed stuff.

So get that kit, update your signature line so we can help you better, and look forward to an amazingly clear pool.