Nasty itchy rash help !

[JoyfulNoise]

OK thank you, but I guess I dont understand how many ppm I added when I added .5 oz of dichlor?

Also when measuring chlorine using the k1000 kit am I measuring FC or?

Thanks for the patience, I am learning alot but have a long way to go.

Tim

The K-1000 chlorine test is the standard yellow OTO test that has been around as long as residential pools have been built. It measures total chlorine (TC) and, honestly speaking, is not very good at it. I consider it mostly just a "presence of chlorine" test without given much credence to the shades of yellow. A much better chlorine test is the DPD test in the K-1001 which measures free chlorine (FC). As long as your FC is not above 10ppm and if you have the Taylor #9056 comparator block, you can measure FC with good results. The very best test for FC though is the DPD-FAS titration test which comes with a TF-100 or Taylor K-2006. It uses DPD to detect the chlorine making a pink colored solution. You then use the FAS drops to titrate the chlorine sample from pink to clear and the drop count gives you the exact FC value. The test has a very wide range (0-50ppm with increments of 0.2ppm/drop or 0.5ppm/drop); it is the very best method of testing chlorine on the market and is an investment that any pool or hot tub owner should make.

 

[onebadfish]

This morning I tested using the TFT 50 kit for chlorine and I see it also has a FC test. I will look at the kit you mentioned.

My readings this morning are: Temp is now 100
FC =12
PH = 8.2
TA = 210
So my acid lowered TA some last night, will look at the pool math calculator and do as directed there. I suspect I will be adding more dry acid to get that TA down to about 50.

The CYA test didn't register at all, in other words I could still see the black dot at the bottom of the cylinder after adding all the mixed solution per directions from TFT.

The K-1000 chlorine test is the standard yellow OTO test that has been around as long as residential pools have been built. It measures total chlorine (TC) and, honestly speaking, is not very good at it. I consider it mostly just a "presence of chlorine" test without given much credence to the shades of yellow. A much better chlorine test is the DPD test in the K-1001 which measures free chlorine (FC). As long as your FC is not above 10ppm and if you have the Taylor #9056 comparator block, you can measure FC with good results. The very best test for FC though is the DPD-FAS titration test which comes with a TF-100 or Taylor K-2006. It uses DPD to detect the chlorine making a pink colored solution. You then use the FAS drops to titrate the chlorine sample from pink to clear and the drop count gives you the exact FC value. The test has a very wide range (0-50ppm with increments of 0.2ppm/drop or 0.5ppm/drop); it is the very best method of testing chlorine on the market and is an investment that any pool or hot tub owner should make.

 

[pooldv]

Hold of on measuring cya until you think you are at 30. The test doesnt read at all below 20ppm and is better at 30. Yes, more acid to drop TA.

 

[onebadfish]

Have my TA closer now, been sneaking up on 50, down to 120 now, how many oz of dichlor would you expect me to add to a 280 gallon tub before I am going to be getting close to my CYA goal? I added another .3 oz of dichlor per pool math this morning because my Chlorine had dropped to 1.

Thank you

Tim

Hold of on measuring cya until you think you are at 30. The test doesnt read at all below 20ppm and is better at 30. Yes, more acid to drop TA.

 

[ant 83]

how many oz of dichlor would you expect me to add to a 280 gallon tub before I am going to be getting close to my CYA goal?
Tim

For every 10ppm FC added via dichlor, 9ppm CYA is also added.

So via pool math, for 280 total gallons, 30ppm CYA would be about a quarter cup of dichlor total.

You don't have to be exact with this, and do keep in mind that splash out and shocking will cause cya to drop.

(edit) Sorry if i wasn't clear, if you've added .8 ounces dichlor, figure that's about 11ppm cya. Figure each additional tablespoon dichlor adds 8ppm cya, so, you've got three more tablespoons to go I'd say.....

That overshoots it a bit, but that's how I'd got about it. I'd also add it all at once. heh.

 

[onebadfish]

Thanks very much, that makes sense to me ! Will be happy when I can move to chlorine. I refilled saturday and have been working on getting balanced since. But wow is my water beautiful, crystal clear and I am very close to getting TA spot on and PH along with it. Can not say enough good about Ahh Some and this forum.

For every 10ppm FC added via dichlor, 9ppm CYA is also added.

So via pool math, for 280 total gallons, 30ppm CYA would be about a quarter cup of dichlor total.

You don't have to be exact with this, and do keep in mind that splash out and shocking will cause cya to drop.

(edit) Sorry if i wasn't clear, if you've added .8 ounces dichlor, figure that's about 11ppm cya. Figure each additional tablespoon dichlor adds 8ppm cya, so, you've got three more tablespoons to go I'd say.....

That overshoots it a bit, but that's how I'd got about it. I'd also add it all at once. heh.

 

[onebadfish]

Finally have my TA down to 70 and the ph stopped rising at about 7.5, I think I am there. Is 50 for TA a have to get there number or is 70 close enough? I came along way down from 270 after initial fill. Water is just beautiful, have never seen it this sparkling clean.

Here is a pic of what ahh some got out of my plumbing. This was from a 3 month old tub with minimal use. I suspect as was suggested here, the tub was filled at factory for testing and not completely drained, so this nasty formed in the plumbing and grew. Hope at the end of this it explains this rash, has been a bummer being out of the tub for 2 weeks now. Looking forward to a soak.

 

[ant 83]

70 was where my tub was at last time I tested. You have higher TA fill water than I do though.

I don't worry about (or test for) TA so much.... I just add acid when the PH gets too high.

remember that dichlor is an acid.

 

[pooldv]

Nice work! That is crazy high TA, what a pain. 70 is fine for now. As ant says keep adding acid to lower PH when it gets to 8.0 and the acid will continue to lower TA until pH doesn't rise anymore. Time to jump in! :splash:

 

[onebadfish]

Thank you Ant for the advice

70 was where my tub was at last time I tested. You have higher TA fill water than I do though.

I don't worry about (or test for) TA so much.... I just add acid when the PH gets too high.

remember that dichlor is an acid.

- - - Updated - - -

Thanks for all the help and I did get in last night, felt amazing and water is just beautiful

Nice work! That is crazy high TA, what a pain. 70 is fine for now. As ant says keep adding acid to lower PH when it gets to 8.0 and the acid will continue to lower TA until pH doesn't rise anymore. Time to jump in! :splash: